Millermatic

No power to the distributor. At least according to my spark tester.

I was going to test IT since I’ve never used one before by trying it on another car. I forgot that getting to the plugs on an Outback is even harder than getting to those on the 951. Guess I’ll try to see if the Volt is any easier to get to. Somehow I doubt it.

I did pull the coil and check the resistance per Clark’s. It checked out fine. I’ll try hooking it up to the battery along with a spark plug.

If the coil checks out with the manual test... I suppose I’m left with a reference sensor or the DME itself? The DME is a Focus 9... so I’ll hook it up to the laptop and see if I can make any sense out of what’s going on. Which I probably should have done before now. I confess... I really like what Joe has done... but I haven’t really figured out how to read the diagnostics from it...

951Dreams

I also have a Volt, mine is a 2018. I had a 2015 previously, but I traded it for the 2018 to get Android Auto, bigger battery, no need for premium gas, and because the battery warranty was almost up. Love my Volt. I'd have a 2023 if they still made them.

I'm interested to see what you find out about the coil. Not sure what your belt work could have done to mess up the reference sensor though.

Millermatic

I’m not sure what my belt work could have done to mess up my spark!

I’m waiting for “the other shoe to drop” and discover I’ve done something completely idiotic...

We picked up the Volt as an “around town” car from my Brother-in-law recently (he can’t seem to stop picking up cars to flip as a side business). It’s a 2013 with quite a few miles but the interior was perfect (the factory plastic was still on the carpet underneath the drivers floor mat. Weird.) and he put in a rebuilt engine with a warranty. It’s getting 34 miles on the battery in winter. I like it so far. And we got it for next to nothing.

ElRicardo

Plug wires in right sequence? Or was that said and checked already?

Millermatic

Checked my coil on a battery with a spark plug per Clark's (more or less... the coil was out of the car so it was connected directly to the battery). And I get a spark. That plus the resistance check should rule out the coil as part of the problem. In the process I also confirmed that the spark tester I got works and the cable from the coil to the distributor is fine.

I'm now left with the coil not getting the appropriate signal to fire? I'll put everything back on in the next day or so and try the OBD+ function on my Focus 9 DME. Which I really should have done first, I suppose.

I'll try to record the data and post it for those interested...

Millermatic

I wish. I keep hoping to find something really stupid and easily remedied. No luck yet.

Tiger03447

Looking at stupid..here…(mirror is in position)did you check the carbon button inside the distributor cap? Is it making contact with the rotor? (Done that a couple of times). The firing order is correct and the wire placement on the cap is correct? Check for a shorted coil using a meter. How old are the wires? Are they seated well into the cap? Are you getting power to the coil? Are the two voltage wires going to the coil on the correct terminals? Is the distributor cap secured tightly to the front cam housing? Sometimes in the heat of battle and doing quick fixes can lead to a heap of trouble. So sounds like you’re getting fuel OK, just no spark. Presume the neighbor’s kid didn’t put a sponge nerf ball in your J-boot..so it should be getting air. Is the AFM plugged in properly? Just going over some basic stuff here that I have done…and overlooked in the past…Hope it starts and runs well for you..fingers crossed. HTH some😀

Millermatic

Appreciate the reply. I've been away for a couple of days so don't have an update... but will be trying again tomorrow to fire it up.

I've got a Focus-9 OBD+ unit... so I'm going to try to pull as many diagnostics as I can (should have done that earlier...) At this point, I think I've hit all of the things you mentioned:

• I'm getting power to the coil.
• I confirmed the coil can generate a spark per Clark's.
• Resistance for the coil checks out.
• I've got fuel and appropriate pressure.
• AFM is plugged in correctly.
• If I jump the DME relay... I can hear the injectors and I have fuel.
• All the other sensors (flywheel, etc) are plugged in.
• Distributor rotor and cap seem fine. It's on correctly.
• Cables are fine (I used them while checking the coil)

The neighbor's kid is a good guy and car nut who is also learning to wrench. No nerf *****.

At this point... I have a coil capable of giving a spark... but it doesn't. As far as I can tell... I'm left with there being a problem with the speed or reference sensors or the DME itself? I'll post an update with whatever I find out from the OBD+. I know the unit can record data... I just need to remember how to do it. Wish I had a spare DME floating around.

walfreyydo

Speed/reference sensors are next. DME needs to see a starting signal (rpms) in order to send secondary voltage signal to coil-which is probably not getting sent. You should also see rpm bounce on the tach while cranking (another indicator of speed/ref sensor function).

See clarks for more info:
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-04.htm
https://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-16.htm (see engine/cranking running signal section)

Keep in mind sensors can be good but harness/plugs can be bad. Mine had connectors which were very brittle and easily cracked when removed. I replaced the plugs with OEM replacements via 944online. Lindsey also stocks a replacement harness.

Keep diagnosing and following the process on Clarks. You are almost there. Process of elimination through testing (not parts).

Millermatic

Joe at Focus 9 also recommended switching my DME to run in 944 mode - bypassing the KLR computer. If it starts... bad KLR. So I'll add that to the list.

951Dreams

Man, I know this suck for you. But I'm really invested in this journey now! Best show on right now!! LOL Keep us posted, I know I'm not the only one on the edge of his seat.

walfreyydo

Man I never realized this was a turbo - this whole time I thought it was an NA. I would go with Joe's recommendation, but if that doesnt work, back to the speed/ref sensors.

Note that under the clarks link above it says:

This could be why your DME relay appears to be faulty and why the need to jumper it. If the speed/reference sensor signals are missing/bad the DME wont send the signal to the DME relay to kick on the pump or injectors.

Also:
Meaning, no starting/running signal from speed/ref sensors, no secondary voltage to coil, no voltage to distributor.

You're on the right track and getting close! My money is on those sensors

Millermatic

Ha! You must be drinking something with the popcorn!

951Dreams

Popcorn makes one thirsty!

Millermatic

So... tried starting the car with the DME turned to "NA" as Joe suggested. Nothing. Just turned over. Then I realized I forgot to put the distributor cable back on.

But... that didn't help. Turned it back to "Turbo" and then tried hooking up the labtop to the usb port on the unit. And... got nothing. The green light for the USB connection came on the program... but the light for the OBD connection stayed red.

So... now I guess I need to check power to the DME? Thought I did that...

Grrr.