Okay, I'm officially lame. I didn't realize those $&% screws Porsche used to hold on the door stays aren't Torx (typical six point). They are something else(?) with like twelve points -what the ****? Porsche couldn't use an ordinary set screw or bolt? So will Sears or some ordinary place sell the correct tool, are they metric sized?).

Anyway, using the **** Torx tool I rounded off the "corners" or points or whatever they are called in TWO of the damned things. Yeah, I know...it wasn't stupid enough eff'ing up one of them I had to try another! One I got part of the way out and probably can get the rest of the way out with vice grip pliers. The other? I don't know what to do.

Do you recommend drilling it out?...if so how do you do that without eff'ing the internal threads in the door with the drill bit and even if you avoid that how do you get the remaining metal from the screw out once drilled? Anyone with experience drilling out bolts please respond.

Why is everything on these cars SUCH A PAIN IN THE ***!

 

You will also find the same type of bolts in the drivetrain.

The tool you need is called a "Triple Square" or "Cheesehead". Sears should have a set for you. Do your best to hit the tool into the bolts you messed up. You might get lucky and they'll come out without too much trouble.

 

Drill the head off, once you do you can use visegrips on the remaining stub after lifting the door catch off it, and with no tension on it it should come right out.

Sam

 

Sam....you 'da man. Why didn't I think of that! That's what I'll do.

I hadn't thought of using a drill the size of the head, I was thinking of how to size a bit j u s t under the root size of the thread! Of course that is to exacting. The "head" idea is right on. Thanks again.

 

FYI that bolt is actually threading into a nut that is welded to the chassis. That weld can break and then you'll be really pissed. So if it just starts spinning you know what happened.

 

Adrial, Oh great! Let's take a frustrating problem and truly make it into a nightmare, huh?

What's your opinion guys...will drilling out the head per Sam's recommendation put too much torque on the welded nut and cause the weld to break? Cause if it does, what do you do then? I'll buy a new bit to make sure it is very sharp and minimize the heat with water spray. That's pretty much all I can do right? Suggestions?

 

Well, you could try getting the right tool and hope that there's still something it can grab.

I did the same thing you did (though maybe not to the same degree) and the right tool was able to get them out.

When you have the right tool, make sure it is pushed all the way in (tap with a hammer) and perpindicular to the bolt.

 

Adrial,
Yeah, after I did this stupid thing, a mechanic friend of mine loaned me the right tool - he didn't know what to call it either!. I used it to take off the bolts on the driver's side after messing the passenger side one up. It worked well but I could tell you have to "seat" it right and stay perpendicular. Also, I didn't finish the installation (I was pretty frustrated and time had become an issue) so I just put the screws back in.

Since you said you've done this, how about a little tutorial? You have to take the whole door panel off to change these things? I didn't realize that. What is the "process" for disconnecting the part that goes into the door itself? A little help please.

 

What about one of these

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952156000

I have not used it myself but have heard good things about them.

That type of bolt is typically referred to as a triple square. You may be able to hammer the triple square tool in deeper than you have damaged the points on the screws. But I would only try this with a quality tool. The ones sold at autozone and other auto parts stores in my area are cheaply made and do about as much damage as using a torx! I bought a set of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...301607336&rd=1 when removing the flywheel on my 968. The 12mm triple squares on the flywheel are notorious for stripping but I got them out in about 30 minutes without stripping any.

 

Bruce, Thanks for the advice.

Those Sears tools you linked are basically "Easy-Outs", aren't they? I'm wondering what the difference is between the 6 pc. one for $50 and the 5 pc. one for $12? Either way, they involve drilling into the damaged screw to basically"grab onto it" so that it can be removed, isn't that right?

I am tempted to try Sam Lin's suggestion above - drill the head out and grab the remaining stub with locking fine tipped vice grips - using WD40 of course, and hopefully it will come out. Then I'll use lithium grease when re-installing new ones to avoid them ever rusting on or "galling" on again.

I'm not sure how I'm going to apporach this but a trip to Sears seems to be in order!

 

I dont remember the specifics very well, but I do remember than on the non 10 speaker stereo cars you can simply remove the speaker on the door and access the door stay through there. Removing the entire door panel isn't necesary.

I would try Sam's suggestion, its your best bet. You want to replace the bolts with the same part, or something that maintains the beveled edge on the back of the bolts.

 

Adrail, When I remove the speakers what am I looking for? I know....the end of the stay, of course - but are there bolts or what type of attachment in there? Do I need any more special tools? Not sure what I will find.

 

Has anyone ever found those cheesehead bits at sears?

 

My local Sears had them. I've also seen them at a number of import auto parts stores.

 

Sears had them tonight!