KLR

As I'm ordering new wires, cap, and rotor this morning, it seems that rotor prices are all over the map. Performance products wants twenty-something for a rotor (944-602-906-01) while Pelican wants sixty-something. Others span the gammut. What gives? Are these all identical OEM bosch parts?

jd944

I'm sure Pelican is quoting you a price on OEM Bosch parts while Performance may not be. A few years ago, my OEM Bosch rotor cracked and I needed one real quick. Went to a local parts house on Long Island, the real kind, not a Pep Boys or the like. They could get me a Bosch the next day for $45.00 or the could give me a Kem replacement right now for $16.00. The Kem part is still in there and holding up well. Bosch makes great stuff but you do pay for the name. There are other quality alternatives. I've dealt with Performance and I don't think they would sell you junk. When in doubt, ask who's product it is. JMHO

Skip

There are a few choices on the rotor. Also, some like us may be selling the cap and rotor together ($71, for comparison). The rotor comes in two flavors; with or without the shaft sleeve. For OE Bosch units with shaft is nearly $100 retail - without is more around $40 - compelling reason to be careful when working with the rotor so as not to ruin the shaft.

IceShark

I just went through this getting new rotor, cap, magnecor wires and MSD box and coil.

Some outfits are selling the rotor with the shaft, others the rotor alone. Why you would want the shaft is beyond me unless you are really brutal on an original rotor (which is basically glued onto the shaft along with blue loctite on the set screw) and took a vice grips or pipe wrench to it. Which apparently some people must do. Some places also sell a rotor and cap combo package which is cheaper than seperate. I got mine from Zims and it was $59 total for OEM Bosch cap and rotor. I know what they sold is OEM and not some aftermarket supplier as I had them in my hot little hands.


Edit: Hey, Skip. I looked at your writeup on installing the MSD system. Unfortunately, your car doesn't have cruise control or ABS. Plus from your pictures I'm not sure if you did something to that bracket that used to hold the vacuum canister so not sure how you mounted the box. I covered that bracket with some scrap reinforced rubber hose slit open and made little shock feet for the bottom 2 screw points of the MSD box, poped two holes through the sheet metal and screwed the sucker home. It is in there pretty sturdy and is now rubber shock mounted.

Anyway, you may wish to make an addition to your instructions that it is possible to relocate the vacuum can to the aft of the battery and put a sheet metal screw through that thin metal strip below the windshield to hold it in place. Pretty cramped and took me about 2 hours to figure out, most of which was spent drinking beer trying to decide what to do. But it worked out pretty good in the end.

89magic98

I got an OEM cap/rotor from PartsPlus (a national chain, I think). Same day availability (had to be trucked from another local store).

To be honest, I don't understand the need to use loctite on the rotor shaft. If you use a new (or dont abuse the existing) allen-head bolt that holds the rotor in, and tighten it properly, I think the glue is unnecessary. On my car, the rotor is a very snug fit on the shaft.

Skip

Kevin, I would strongly recommend you do use loctite. Lots of vibration in there. Better safe than sorry - you should post a poll here and at the Turbo forum to see how many folks have lost set screws in the rotor.

Skip

Dan, yes - I have no CC or ABS so I relocated the vacuum cannister to the area where the CC was. It can go anywhere, and I'll likely be moving it again soon.

Sounds like we had the same deliberation experience Took me forever to figure out where to put the dang thing, then an hour to actually install it. SCCA scruts didn't like my original zip-tie to the vacuum can bracket so it's now mounted similar to what you describe - part poopers.

Just updated the article with your suggestion - thanks!
http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index...x_v2&id=87&c=4

IceShark

Ahh, you zip tied it.

I was afraid to do that because I was originally going to put it in the glove box and saw that MSD note against that. Called the tech guys and they said glove box would be like an oven and kill the MSD box because the box would get hot enough to burn your hands. Turned out to be a bunch of bull$hit because I haven't noticed the box getting that hot. Actually it is sort of cool after an hour of running. And it has to be working since the car still runs. Of course I discovered all this after I placed the box like you did.

Here is what to do. Get a short chunk of multi layer fabric reinforced hose about 4 or 5" diameter. This is tough stuff and doesn't compress as bad as straight rubber. i had some left over from sailboat scuppers. Put that around the old vacuum can bracket face. Zip tie or screw it on the bracket.

Then make a couple 1" square feet for the bottom two screw holes out of the same stuff. Be carefull, get everything aligned straight and pop a punch hole through the bottom screw holes of the box. Helps to have a helper. Drill your holes through the sheet metal but be carefull as there are a couple wire harnesses behind there so don't go pushing the drill bit 4 inches in. Stick a wire through the hole and see how close you are to harnesses. If fairly clear, once you start the new threads with a 1" #8 or #10 sheet metal screw (stainless, of course), file off/grind the tip of the screw down so it is not some future spear.

Coat the holes with silicone caulk and screw it all down. It really is pretty sturdy and you will pass any of the scruts inspection. You have two secure rubber mounting points at he bottom and you are levering the box against the upper support of the rubber covered vac can. Trust me, it works great. As long as you keep the outer box edge inside the battery clamp bolt on a vertical view you will have plenty of clearance. And I have my larger upgraded battery cables in there. Well maybe not PLENTY, but enough.

houston944

I don't have the dust cap behind the cap in my car. Should I buy a new dust cap with the new cap and rotor?

Skip

I would recommend it, yes. But, then again, we sell them

The purpose is to keep the dirty air from the belt area out of the sensitive cap/rotor area. Also, there is a foam seal for the cap that you want also - keeps the cap on steady, and, reduces fear of condensation.

Manning

All over the map is right. I bought a cap and rotor from the dealer a couple years ago and the rotor with the metal arbor was about $50.00. I priced one from them a couple months ago and it had jumped to $110.00 just for the rotor/arbor. Same part number and everything.