Replacing leather shift boot
#1
Replacing leather shift boot
I have just installed an AGLA shift lever boot, and it did not turn out too bad
did buy a shift lever and boot on e-bay, but it turned out to be brown, so if anyone needs a brown lever and boot, let me know.
I tore off the old decomposing leather and had a real problem getting the plastic button out as it was glued in hard and I chipped it. Eventually it came out.
First of all, the AGLA leather is a bit thicker than on my original black boot and the brown boot. I had no trouble getting the elasticated base into the groove. I pushed the **** up into the boot, using baby powder, quite a stretch, but it did get the leather up over the **** and proud for about 3/8". I spent some time bending over the leather and pushing it into the recess in the ****. It did not seem to want to go into that recess, so I measured the diameter of the lower part of the plastic sleeve under the button and found a socket from my 1/2" socket set, pushed the leather over into the recess and pushed the socket into the recess, trapping the leather, left it for 24 hours, removed the socket then applied contact cement to the inside of the leather and the recess, bent the leather over and jammed the socket down, pushing the leather cement side onto the cement in the recess. I lightly greased the socket to prevent it from getting stuck.
There you go, if anyone has a spare black button button with the gear shift layout, I'd like to buy it. I want to keep this early, February 1983 944 all original, except for the panel type K&N air filter going in next week.
Mike
did buy a shift lever and boot on e-bay, but it turned out to be brown, so if anyone needs a brown lever and boot, let me know.
I tore off the old decomposing leather and had a real problem getting the plastic button out as it was glued in hard and I chipped it. Eventually it came out.
First of all, the AGLA leather is a bit thicker than on my original black boot and the brown boot. I had no trouble getting the elasticated base into the groove. I pushed the **** up into the boot, using baby powder, quite a stretch, but it did get the leather up over the **** and proud for about 3/8". I spent some time bending over the leather and pushing it into the recess in the ****. It did not seem to want to go into that recess, so I measured the diameter of the lower part of the plastic sleeve under the button and found a socket from my 1/2" socket set, pushed the leather over into the recess and pushed the socket into the recess, trapping the leather, left it for 24 hours, removed the socket then applied contact cement to the inside of the leather and the recess, bent the leather over and jammed the socket down, pushing the leather cement side onto the cement in the recess. I lightly greased the socket to prevent it from getting stuck.
There you go, if anyone has a spare black button button with the gear shift layout, I'd like to buy it. I want to keep this early, February 1983 944 all original, except for the panel type K&N air filter going in next week.
Mike
#2
Good tips Mike. I need to replace mine soon.
I put a K&N in the airbox. Is this the type you're talking about. Keeps it stock, you know. Well at least you can't tell its not stock. Works well, too. Wish I had replaced it 10 years ago.
I put a K&N in the airbox. Is this the type you're talking about. Keeps it stock, you know. Well at least you can't tell its not stock. Works well, too. Wish I had replaced it 10 years ago.
#3
Steve, yes, it's the flat panel type of K&N, to go into the airbox. I've seen the conical ones, up, but they just suck in hot air, I need the cool air pulled in from outside the car. FWIW, I put a K&N panel filter in my GSLSE RX7, the one with the 1300cc FI rotary motor and there was a significant increase in accelleration. I have one in my Jeep Cherokee because I spend a lot of time on dusty roads in the country, I'm an Agrologist, have 380,000kms, (237,500 miles) on my Jeep and do not use hardly any oil between changes, so to my mind the K&Ns are the only way to go for speed and dust exclusion. And, no I don't own the company, wish I did.
Mike
Mike
#5
I'm asking what I paid for it on e-bay, $50.00 US plus $5.00 US postage, I'm in Canada, but it's on offer right now to another who PM'ed me Rennlister, if he does not want it then it's up for grabs again. Full OEM, no rips or tears, held on by the steel clip, my interior is black, so it was used until I got my AGLA replacement boot. It's in good shape,
Mike
Mike
#7
If you can't find a nice plastic one (they are all glued in and all tend to break on the way out), I can paint one of my stainless caps black (gloss to mimic the factory version or satin to better match the leather). You won't ever have to worry about chipping an edge trying to push it out.
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#8
When you were replacing the boot, did you check the rubber boot, that goes underneath it!?
Because when that goes, that's what deteriorates the leather, by heat bypass.
If it is torn, and you don't replace it, the new boot will also deteriorate.
- Julie
Because when that goes, that's what deteriorates the leather, by heat bypass.
If it is torn, and you don't replace it, the new boot will also deteriorate.
- Julie
#10
Originally posted by Joe Jackson
If you can't find a nice plastic one (they are all glued in and all tend to break on the way out), I can paint one of my stainless caps black (gloss to mimic the factory version or satin to better match the leather). You won't ever have to worry about chipping an edge trying to push it out.
If you can't find a nice plastic one (they are all glued in and all tend to break on the way out), I can paint one of my stainless caps black (gloss to mimic the factory version or satin to better match the leather). You won't ever have to worry about chipping an edge trying to push it out.
Thanks a bunch,
Mike