emergency help, belt job
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got it all buttoned back up after doing h2o pump, belts, pulleys, etc. Started it up and had no oil pressure. Retorqued crank pulley bolt. It was about 130. It think it is 150-155 now but can only manage 1 bar oil pressure. Also, it looks to me that the crank pulley is wobbling, especially on low rpm's. Here's a crappy video of it running. Does it look to be wobbling to anyone else? Also, do the belts sounds too tight? I checked them over and over with the Krikit and they are very near 40 and 28.
http://home.insightbb.com/~noblesvil...944_pulley.wmv
Thanks.
http://home.insightbb.com/~noblesvil...944_pulley.wmv
Thanks.
#2
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 7,262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, it's definitely wobbling and that's the reason for the low oil pressure. Don't run the motor until you fix that.
Remove and reinstall the puley making sure it's seated right. I'd be willing to bet that the spacer behind the crank bolt is on backwards. It's cone shaped and the small end points to the radiator. Torque to 155 ft.lbs minimum and you should be ok.
Remove and reinstall the puley making sure it's seated right. I'd be willing to bet that the spacer behind the crank bolt is on backwards. It's cone shaped and the small end points to the radiator. Torque to 155 ft.lbs minimum and you should be ok.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll go check it. I was fairly certain I had it pointed towards the front, but after so many hours under and over this car this weekend, I might be wrong.
A side note, it is well worth the few $ to buy the spanner tools to do this job. I chose not to, and it was quite difficult to pull the balance shaft gears. It took a combination of long, strong hex keys and a screwdriver between them to counter the turn of the socket wrench.
So how do you think the belts sound? They sounded this way before the change, so I'm hoping that's normal.
A side note, it is well worth the few $ to buy the spanner tools to do this job. I chose not to, and it was quite difficult to pull the balance shaft gears. It took a combination of long, strong hex keys and a screwdriver between them to counter the turn of the socket wrench.
So how do you think the belts sound? They sounded this way before the change, so I'm hoping that's normal.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pulled it back apart and found some interesting things.
posted these pictures of what i found:
1. Could I perhaps not have that gear pressed on far enough?
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/1.JPG
2. Here is how the washer is on the crank bolt, so tapered edge is forward.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/2.JPG
3. Another shot of washer on bolt.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/4.JPG
4. This is the inside of my crankshaft pulley. The hole has definitely been wobbled out of round and oval, and now there's a raised lip on it.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/5.JPG
5. Backside shot of pulley.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/6.JPG
So, why, if the washer was on properly, did this happen. could it be because I ran the enginge for a minute with crankshaft bolt under-torqued to 130?
I'll go find another pulley Monday, but I want to avoid screwing up the one also.
Thanks.
posted these pictures of what i found:
1. Could I perhaps not have that gear pressed on far enough?
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/1.JPG
2. Here is how the washer is on the crank bolt, so tapered edge is forward.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/2.JPG
3. Another shot of washer on bolt.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/4.JPG
4. This is the inside of my crankshaft pulley. The hole has definitely been wobbled out of round and oval, and now there's a raised lip on it.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/5.JPG
5. Backside shot of pulley.
http://home.insightbb.com/~Noblesville_Nitro/6.JPG
So, why, if the washer was on properly, did this happen. could it be because I ran the enginge for a minute with crankshaft bolt under-torqued to 130?
I'll go find another pulley Monday, but I want to avoid screwing up the one also.
Thanks.
Trending Topics
#8
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The pulley may have been this way before, maybe from a previous mistake (previous owner), and when you installed it, it was not on straight and does not put the right pressure on the oil pump drive gear. Try reinstalling it, making sure it is centered and doesn't wobble. You may be able to make it work.
#10
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Whoa! You've got your timing belt sprocket on backwards. Flip that around, get a new power steering pulley, then put it all back together. You'll need get that power steering pulley on right with the hole as out of round as it is.
#11
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 7,262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I agree with Joe 1000%. The sprocket is backwards in the first pic. I wouldn't even mess with that pulley. A few bucks for a pulley or zero oil pressure. Easy choice.
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
wow, i just noticed the sprocket in the picture. I was just out there and didn't even see it backwards. I really have to stop working after midnight.
I'll definitely replace the pulley, hopefully someone in the area has one.
Also, what are the torque specs for all of the bolts in the timing belt area, sprockets, rollers, etc. I can't find that info and I want to make sure I have them all correct.
thanks guys
I'll definitely replace the pulley, hopefully someone in the area has one.
Also, what are the torque specs for all of the bolts in the timing belt area, sprockets, rollers, etc. I can't find that info and I want to make sure I have them all correct.
thanks guys
#13
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Torque specs for timing belt area:
M6 (10mm hex) = 6 ft. lbs.
M8 (13mm hex) = 15 ft. lbs.
M10 (17mm hex) = 33 ft. lbs.
crankshaft sprocket = 150 ft. lbs.
camshaft sprocket = 52 ft. lbs.
M6 (10mm hex) = 6 ft. lbs.
M8 (13mm hex) = 15 ft. lbs.
M10 (17mm hex) = 33 ft. lbs.
crankshaft sprocket = 150 ft. lbs.
camshaft sprocket = 52 ft. lbs.