indigo

87 944 N/A with calipers unbolted and two phillips head screws removed....rotors still wont come off with me banging it w/ hammer. Did I miss a procedure or should I just hit harder? I need to find a rubber mallet i think...please advise...


EDIT: Thanks guys...rotors off, please read my post below about my caliper probs... I dont want to put this all back together without your expert advice... :-D

-matt

Matt Marks

Did you push back the pistons and/or pull out the brake pads?

mikec944

if it is the rear brakes, make sure the park brake is off
otherwise, bang real hard, might take a lot of heavy blows

83na944

I assume you have the calipers out of the way and you're working on the rear rotors.

There are two threaded holes in the rotor. Thread bolts in those and tighten them. That's supposed to push the rotor off. I've never had to do that, my rotors just slipped off.

Good Luck.

indigo

thank you! i just went from tapping the rotor to banging it and turning it and it slipped off, these both were badly in need of attention...

indigo

EDIT (rotors off, woohoo!!!)

okay, now im worried about my calipers. They were very much so wearing the outer pads more than the inner pads (pads touching piston were fine with lots of life, ones on other side of sliding caliper were gone or wore slatly (ie: think of the pad beaing worn down to look like a triangle).

NOW: Im cleaning the calipers with lots of brake fluid and a little steel brush but I want to make sure that the sliding mechanism is working again. Can anybody tell me where this is and how it should be serviced? No part of my caliper actually moves :-(

thank you!
-matt

944_S_TYPE

Dont bang on anything...This is not a 1980 ford pickup.... Try a using a manual or clarks garage Or paragon. All you do is screw 2 8mm bolts into the other 2 holes and alternately tighten, The rotors pop right off. There is a proceedure for everything. Porsches are great to work on. They have well written manuals. Just like the aircraft I work on.
Good luck!

83na944

Do you know if the piston moves?

Are you asking which part of the assembly moves?

indigo

correct....does the caliper assembly move at all? I know the piston works because I retracted them before removing the caliper from the steering knuckle.

I just heard you have to grease up a sliding pin in order to get the frame of the single piston caliper to work correctly....is this true? ...and considing my wear problems.... this is subject to great consideration before I put everything back together... :-D

theedge

FYI theres a nice looking guide in Haynes on rebuilding the caliper...

I havent done that part of it, but it looked ok when I read it. Lots of pics.

83na944

The pins just retain the pads. They should be greased on assembly, but I'd bet thats not what's causing you problem.

The caliper body is the round part where the piston is located. Its pressed onto a larger flat floating frame.

The mounting frame is the part that has the holes that mount to the backing plate. It slips into the floating frame over the caliper body.

The mounting frame and the floating frame should move in reference to each other. In other words, the two frames should slide so that when the piston extends and presses against the inboard pad, the floating frame moves inboard a nd the outboard pad is pressed against the outside of the rotor.

You need to apply high temperature grease to the surfaces of the frames that actuall touch. I use anti-sieze because it doesn't seem to run or dry out.

The Haynes manual does have a good writeup about servicing these calipers.

83na944

This thread has a good picture on the second page:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=128885

Zero10

Hey, while we're talking about brakes, does the axle nut need to come off to change the rotors (front or rear)?? I am changing all 4 rotors in a week or two, and I want to have all the right tools before I start.

Mmm.... crossdrilled.

83na944

Front, yes. Rear, no.

You'll need an allen wrench to remove the clamp on the spindle nut on the front. You might want to replace the hub seal while you have it off, and repack the bearings.

I had to buy a Phillips head socket to remove the countersunk retaining screws that hold on the rear rotors. They were on too tight for a screwdriver. YOu might also want a couple of long 8mm bolts in case you need to use them to remove the rear rotors.

Mike C.

The axle nut does not have to be removed to replace rear rotors. Damn good thing too.