skipgresham944

I'm putting a new head on a 944S2 block using new OEM studs. While I have done a lot of work on these cars, I have not done this job before. BTW, I have already gone to Clark's Garage and searched the archives on this. My question: what is the step by step procedure (not just the angle and torque, stud sequence etc) for installing the studs and head?

What I mean is, do I use jam nuts or some other appliance to torque the studs into the block )as discussed @ 15 ft/lbs, then 60 deg, then 90 deg)...then remove the jam nuts and put on the head...then install the washers and nuts. Or is the right way another technique?

Joe Jackson

I have not done head studs on a 944 engine but I did install ARP studs on my Eagle Talon while I was rebuilding the engine. Their recommendation was just to bottom the stud by hand and that's it. Obviously, you'd want to run a tap through the threads to clean out any leftover thread locker. Reapply the thread locker, thread studs in by hand, then install the cylinder head.

I checked the factory manuals and could not find any info on this. If someone has it, please post it.

L8 APEKS

I'd always snugged studs down with thread locker by gripping the solid center section with vice grips. No need to go monkey-tight, but you want to make sure they all go in snug.

skipgresham944

Yeah, there appears to be an assumption of experience with this procedure in many of the references.

As I understand it now, the studs go in the block hand-tight and then the 3 step procedure is carried out on the nuts on top of the cylinder head.

Somehow this does not sound right. It seems they would need to be seated more securely in the block than that, based on nothing more than paranoia. Anyone out there who can chime in???

skipgresham944

Also, can anybody recommend a thread chaser or tap device for cleaning out the old Loctite? I have let the block's bolt holes sit full of WD40 for a week and hopefully they shouldn't be too tough to clean. Perhaps a small wire brush?

Mr. Avionics

Get a "Bottoming Tap" of the appropriate size, run down in the holes and that should clean it out just fine, blow out the debris with air and you will be good to go. When tightening studs, use a stud tool or doubble nuts, the risk of weakening the stud with scratches made by vice grips does exist, tho don't know just how critical it might be. Studs don't have to be very tight as its the pull on the threads that holds the head down, just make sure they are in as far as they possible can go, ergo the "Bottoming Tap".
Bill

skipgresham944

Yes, well I was wondering if anyone can recommend a specific tap tool. I'm not seeing much out there, I suspect I may have to special order it...

Mr. Avionics

Check out MSC Industrial Supply, they are a big machine shop equipment supplier, Their web add: mscdirect.com. I haven't checked it out but I have a catalog. Should find metric taps there ok. By the way, taps come in three styles. taper, plug, and bottoming. taper for starting, plug for both starting and finishing and bottoming for finishing blind holes. They cut the threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.

good luck,
Bill

Joe Jackson

And if all you are doing is cleaning up and not actually tapping www.use-enco.com (partnered with MSC) has much cheaper taps which will get the job done. Just don't expect it to last too long doing real tapping. Good enough for removing Loctite though.

skipgresham944

Thanks for all the responses. A new possible issue has arisen on the project - see next thread...