Good catch PerryB!! I bet he's missing it. There are TWO types of these--a thick one and a thin one. Unfortunately, I forget which goes into which bracket and model. Get them both

 

Yes im missing it.

 

Later cars 85.5 and later, have a different rig for supporting the reference sensors. The early cars don't have this type of bridge option. In the videos, I'm not sure they show the later cars bridges and insertion requirements for the sensors. They are basically the same, except for the later cars "tweaks" that they made on those models.

 

There are two different thicknesses, one for turbos and one for NA.

 

This tool is invaluable when setting height.
https://944store.com/product/dg-spee...-gapping-tool/

By the looks of the reference sensor in the first pic,
better be sure the pin isn't sheared off the flywheel.

 

You're not kidding that tool does look invaluable. I'm gonna invest.

 

When I set my sensor height I used a piece of cardboard that was .8 mm thick glued to the end of the speed sensor. I then put the sensor in the bracket, and adjusted the bracket so that the ring gear was just touching the cardboard on the end of the sensor. Once the car starts the cardboard neither interferes with the sensor nor will it damage the ring gear.

 

I think you are in a mode now of trust but verify. You will be obtaining sensors that do not have a P part number. You may have a mix of brackets pieces. I would get my new sensors, attach a spacer on the end, and set the one to the ring gear up. Then check for clearance on the "pin" side. At this point, I doubt that a generic fitting tool would be of any value.

 

After taking out the crushed one I put in the 2 new Bosch sensors and still no go. I'm not sure if I gapped then right but Im still not getting a spark. I remember once reading about a bypass procedure on Clark's garage should i give that a shot or try to regap the sensors? I'm including of a picture of the ecu connection under the passenger area if that looks right what are the red wires for? Thanks in advance!

Benny

 

Since the gap is set with the speed sensor, the one over the starter ring gear, to check if you have the correct gap, attach a cardboard disk the height of the gap to the tip of the sensor. Then reinstall sensor and determine if the sensor "T" is flush with holder or higher by x amount, if flush, then remove to see if cardboard spacer made contact with ring gear

 

The gap is not super critical, as long as there is a gap! As the gap gets wider the strength of the signal drops off but I don't think it's like a light switch or anything.

The shop manual shows testing the signal at the ECU plug using an ocilliscope. Not something we commonly have laying around. I have a nice Fluke meter that i put on AC and enable the Capture Peak function. You should capture a peak voltage of 1 to 2 volts AC at the ECU pins if everything is working. That is cranking on the starter motor.

 

This thread is a walk down memory lane for me. An old mechanic I used put it back together without the snowman spacer, and, well, I ended up fishing wire off the flywheel thru the starter hole. It looks like the impact knocked out a small bridge in your bell housing. I know some engine builders like to notch out that bridge, IIRC, it allows for install of the bell housing with the sensors installed.

 

BTW I'm still not getting any tach bounce 😕 😒.

 

Are the reference pins (set screws) on the flywheel wiped out?

 

Well, back to basics. Check for continuity at the DME plug. I suspect the circuit passes through the 9 pin plug on the firewall, as well as the obvious plugs at the rear of the cylinder head.
Of course, only one of the two sensors drives the tach. I couldn't tell you which one.