Gasngo

Well dropped the tank off a reputable shop in San Antonio and it appears someone sealed it in the past and the sealer is chipping out and some is not so off to the more expensive shop to have it opened up and done right. 84 model with metal tank. I plan on keeping the car for a while but not the expense I was hoping for. May be I can get them to take a few pics of the process AAAARRRRGGGG

Tiger03447

The tank can be unsoldered with a heat gun..It is comprised of several plates. You can resolder it the same way. This applies after you have scraped off all the undercoat that some PO probably put on it..There are several plates/seams that can be undone. Just not the pinched ones on the tank ends. After doing this to my tank, I used various corks and plugs (bathroom tub stopper helps here) and put a mightyvac vacuum pump on it. Once I got it to hold vacuum for a long while, I was satisfied. It's in the car now, with a new strainer..and gasoline in it. No leaks. HTH some.

Gasngo

Thanks food for thought. Its still at the shop Ill dwell on it.

papasmurf

Sounds all too familiar...I cut mine apart carefully with a die grinder (while it was full of water to prevent against explosion) and then stripped the (failed POR 15 sealer) with a wire brush before taking it to a welder to have it put back together....so far so good. If all else fails, I know of an early tank not too far from you that might be worth picking up.

maybeillbuyit

When you say heat gun are you referring to a hot air blowing heat gun? I'm surprised one of those would be hot enough to melt solder and actually be able to pull the tank apart. If so I may be doing this.

Spring44

If you are near the SATX area, take it to Don Hart Radiator, 20123 FM 362 in Waller, TX, just off of Hwy 290 near Hempstead (NW of of Houston), Tel. 713-675-9848.

They clean and coat tanks using the GasTank RENU method. They 1.) pressure test the tank to find leaks, 2.) repair leaks, 3.) Cut flaps in the side of the tank so they can reach in with a wand and sandblast the entire interior, including all sides of the baffles, 4.) close and weld flaps, repair leaks and re-pressure test, 5.) Coat interior with POR-15 epoxy sealant and heat it up in an oven to accelerate the curing of the coating, 6.) Coat the exterior of the tank with lizard skin coating.

I had them do mine about three years ago for $400 and am very pleased with their work. No fuel related problems since I had it done. I have no affiliation with them, just a satisfied customer!

When I had mine done, a new tank cost $1800 if you could even find one, so the price seemed reasonable to me.

Gasngo

Thats where Im going. The young lady told over the phone 550$ with out seeing it. Now I can say they did a buddys for 400$ I have enough on my plate I dont need future headaches. Heading out the door shortly. Sadly I need to drive from Horseshoe Bay to San Antonio and oic it up then to Waller and back. going to be on the rd for a while.

orig944

Consider having them reinforce the known weak spots while you are at it. Read through this thread.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...eaks-read.html

Gasngo

Thats food for thought. Thats if I can convey the and they read it. Luckily I called this morning before I rolled out and they have a relay point in Austin verses driving pretty much just this side of north west Houston or I would still be on the Rd.

Gasngo

Good morning everybody to many hobbies I have been looking at watch's. OK my tank is apart and the repair shop says it look good. I forwarded the info regarding the stress points on top of the tank and their comments are it really look good they dont see any concern. They could apply a additional sealant, leave it alone or solder in 2 small patch's. I thought I would throw it out here and see what the thoughts are. Do I just let them do as they normally do and find out a I have gas fumes in a year from now or was there a bad batch of tanks that got in cars and this is rare. Im all ears.

maybeillbuyit

I've got gas tank woes as well, I pulled my tank out and its got multiple holes in addition to being full of all kind of sludgy junk. The tank isnt worth fixing imo. I also have a spare tank that is very rusty around the seams and the interior is full of rust, pretty sure its not worth saving.
I would say if your tank is apart and worth saving you should go all the way and have it repaired so it will last forever ( or as long as possible). You don't want to go down this path again. I have no idea what I'll do about finding a usable tank. They are very hard to find

Tiger03447

My heat gun goes up to 1200 degrees..solder melts at about 3-400..worked great for me..There are other ones that go up to 1500..Harbor Freight?

Tiger03447

Although it may not be worth in freight charges, I know that Retro Automotive in Claremont, NH has a few...866-737-1733..Ask for Roger..nice guy done business with him for years.

maybeillbuyit

OK interesting. Mine says 1000 degrees, I'll give it a try as an experiment, although the spare tank I have probably isn't saveable

Gasngo

Thanks for the replies. Being in Vancouver does have its disadvantages regarding large component shipping Ill assume. I would call Retro and at least find out what they have a charge. Im paying 500 + to get mine repaired and again other than just gummed up inside and some rust its in good shape according to the gall that called me to advise on the next step. She said it looked almost new compared to the tank next to it. So Im just curious who thinks what regarding beefing up the known week points and again assuming its common on all the tanks or a certain vintage. Ill most likely have the beef it up unless Im convinced other wise. Maybe I can get them to send me some pics Via email.