Engine Bay Wash Problem
#17
quenching in oil should surface harden.. water does nada. no carbon intake.. hot engine would strech the timming belt less flow on the waterpump.. maybe a glaze there. if a pool of water on the bottom of the covers? I would look at the belts before driving further.. The covers are there for normal driving who knows with a soak from the top.. HTH
#18
Dwight, I hadn't thought about water on the belts. Guess another thing to look at.
Kevin, no I'm sticking with the regular thermoswitch at 92/102*C. I want the normal engine operating temp at 80 C which leaves me at the first hash mark, where I have been for 15 years. Until I came over to your Dad's place.
If I stick in one of those lower thermo switches the fans will be kicking on all the time for just a couple degrees and suck the system voltage way down.
Kevin, no I'm sticking with the regular thermoswitch at 92/102*C. I want the normal engine operating temp at 80 C which leaves me at the first hash mark, where I have been for 15 years. Until I came over to your Dad's place.
If I stick in one of those lower thermo switches the fans will be kicking on all the time for just a couple degrees and suck the system voltage way down.
#19
For the snap ring, 45 degree 0.090 inch snap ring pliers wored for me. I have a pair of Snap-On SRP4590 that were listed as PR40, or something like that, but are NLA. SK makes a pair, but I don't know if they're long enough to work.
And always remember, a dirty engine is a happy engine.
And always remember, a dirty engine is a happy engine.
#21
Oh, I'm positive it is the thermostat failed in the closed position. Replacement T-Stat and T-switch should show up in 2 days. Only "minor" issue is finding a snap ring pliers that will actually work which is turning into a biger job than I thought if I want to replace with everything in the car. I'll probably go with the Snap-On #SRPC9045A which is sort of pricey at $20.45 but people have done it with this. I don't want to screw around for days on end and end up busting and modifing a few pair of pliers before I decide that Snap-On was the way to go in the first place.
#23
IceShark,
The Snap-On pliers are the way to go. Isearched the website the other day and I'm sure it said they were no longer available, but they are listed today. I probably made a mistake on the search.
I went through 2 pairs of the types with interchangeable tips (totally useless) before I got the Snap-On pliers. They worked great for me. I would have saved about $25 if I bought the Snap-On pliers first.
BTW, I also bought a pair of PR40 external pliers form Snap-On. I saw a recommendation for these in a CV joint replacement article. They work very well on the CV joint snap rings and the snap ring that retains the throw-out bearing on the pressure plate.
Steve
The Snap-On pliers are the way to go. Isearched the website the other day and I'm sure it said they were no longer available, but they are listed today. I probably made a mistake on the search.
I went through 2 pairs of the types with interchangeable tips (totally useless) before I got the Snap-On pliers. They worked great for me. I would have saved about $25 if I bought the Snap-On pliers first.
BTW, I also bought a pair of PR40 external pliers form Snap-On. I saw a recommendation for these in a CV joint replacement article. They work very well on the CV joint snap rings and the snap ring that retains the throw-out bearing on the pressure plate.
Steve
#24
Hey iceshark. Any luck yet? Got the ground kiT in and......WOW, all of my gauges are where they are susposed to be. and the voltage is showing 13.5-14.0 on the meter. (at the battery) Thanks again. good luck. P.S. Starter still cranks slow, but it always starts......
#25
Good! You may need the positive to get that starter cranking full blast.
I'm waiting on parts which should show up tomorrow and then start on it Friday. So we shall see how this goes.
I'm waiting on parts which should show up tomorrow and then start on it Friday. So we shall see how this goes.