Hi all, I just installed a new cam from RS Barn (from his last batch) and it is suggested that I run new Lifters with the cam. I looked them up for my 84' 944 8v and they are on pelican for $91. This is pretty steep, is there any other suppliers that I am missing that provides quality lifters at a cheaper price?

 

If memory serves me correct, those are INS brand lifters...You might check with Auto Atlanta or perhaps Voith overseas can help with your quest. HTH some.

 

Auto Atlantas are $81 which is still pretty expensive.

 

INA is the brand you are looking for.

What's the factory part # to save me some time.

Or, look here - https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/184...er-4200010100/

 

that link is not for the correct ones. Here is the part number: 928 105 311 06

 

It looks like people still make the 928-105-311-08 lifters but these have a different design. Will they work in place of the 928-105-311-06's

 

I'm aware.

 

I saw rebuilt lifters on the 944 online website for about $50/each.

 

The last time I saw 8V lifters offered they were a LOT more than $81.00. Thetr are aparrently some options on the 16V models, but nothing on the 8V models...Not including Lindsey Racing's mechanical lifter conversion.

 

i might just go with the ones from 944 online that are refurbished.

 

If your lifters are good why replace them? If you research lifters you will find a lot of people saying the new lifters are made differently. They say they wear out very fast. Is it true? I have no clue, but there are a lot of threads about the inferiority of the new lifters.
As far as telling if they are good or bad....I have heard people say if the button is soft they are good. I have also heard people say if the button is hard it is good. I have heard people switch from hard to soft as good and vice versa. The only person who I believe was someone who was a rep for a lifter manufacturer. His advice was it does not matter if the button is hard or soft - the only way to tell is to install them and see if they work.
Good luck on your decision.

 

The button should be hard, and it should compress under the load of the valve springs to release oil ( which is around 90-100lbs I think). So given that, you shouldnt be able to move the button with anything less than your upper body, and even then, it shouldn't compress much.

 

Where did you find documentation on the valve spring seat pressure? I researched this and the only number that seemed to point to it was in the factory WSM and it said 145, which is where my seat pressure is with different springs/heights. Now when you compress the spring it goes over 200psi. When I rebuilt my engine half my lifters were totally soft and the other half were rock hard. As I stated above there were people like you who insisted they should be hard, and there were others saying they should be soft, and others who flipped flopped back and forth. I listened to the person that MAKES lifters. It turns out he was right. ALL my lifters work perfectly, the soft ones and the hard. Go figure, the manufacturer knows more then random internet people!
Go ahead and spend the $1500 on new lifters. If you want to do things right do not bother with "rebuilt" lifters, these really are not meant to be "rebuilt" like some lifters that come apart easily.

 

You can absolutely rebuild lifters, they are mechanical and anything that is mechanical can be "rebuilt" (or at least in my opinion).

 

I'd love to see the process on that.
Regrind the wear surface? Might have a slightly convex surface to promote rotation (Domestic ones do...)
Re harden it after grinding?
Disassemble the piston, spring and check ball? Check piston-bore clearance? Replace anything worn? Test the spring, replace if it's weak?
Do anything remotely like that, and still make a profit selling them?
I'll pass.
They used to sell 'Rebuilt' spark plugs, too...