Shutemup

I have an oil leak that appears to be coming from behind my distributor.

I'm assuming that there is a seal on that shaft that is leaking for whatever reason.

Now before I go trying to tear into it and fix it, I'd like to get an idea of what I will have to do to get at it, and what parts or tools I will likely need.

Thanks in advance

tcmdocs944

Sounds as though you are in for the job I just completed.

Front oil seals.

You could just go in and replace the camshaft seal but you will likely be in there again shortly if this is the first time on your 84.

All of the seals require you breaking down all belts and rollers then removing the rear cover. The kit costs around $50 I think...probably less. The big expense is the flywheel lock. I am a real "maker of tools" but I wouldn't fool around with this one. Breaking the crank bolt requires big, big torque the first time.

If you choose just to take care of the cam seal the parts are <$10 but you do have to remove all belts.

Good luck

Bones944

I just replaced all my seals in August of 2002. This weekend my camseal developed a major leak so I am doing it again this weekend. You do not have to remove the belts completely to replace only the cam seal.. You DO have to remove the front timing cover, set the timing to TDC, remove the distributor cap and rotor and the front half of the distributor housing and loosen the TB tensioner. I mark the belt and the sprocket with a white mark as a reference point to facilitate reinstalling the belt on the right tooth. You can then slip the belt off the cam sprocket. You'll need the 10mm triplesquare tool ( get a high quality one, I ran down a MAC tooltruck and bought mine for $23) to remove the cam bolt and it's better to have an extra set of hands to help with this. One person can hold a 32mm boxed end wrench on the retaining collar ( the sprocket must not move more than a couple of degrees or you'll bend valves) while you use 2 hands to loosen the cheesehead bolt, keeping the tool square in the head of the bolt. After removing the bolt, tap the retaining collar off, remove the woodruff key and remove the sprocket and rear half of the distributor housing. there are 4 seals to replace: the main camshaft seal, an O-ring on the back of the housing, a small rubber plug in the back of the housing and a thin mylar washer on the camshaft. Reassembly is the reverse. Slip the TB belt back on the sprocket, lining up the white marks you made, verify the timing and retension. The biggest bitch is getting the lower dist cap lock back on if it's a turbo

Z-man

Question: is there another name for the 10mm triplesquare tool?

I suppost a star key isn't the same tool, is it?

Thanks,
-Z-man.

Yabo

no, star key is a torx wrench . SP? These have 12 points, not 6.

It may be called triple square, 12 point, cheesehead, or what it was called at my local parts store where i picked it up, serrated.

If you have a local parts store near you , and you dont see it at first, look if tehy have a specialty tool section or rack. it was there where i got it.

btw, if you have trouble finding it after looking, or would rather do this instead, i can go pick you up one and ship it to you if you want. its right down the road from me 5 min. Although these are the cheap ones. (under 10.00) and some people argue that you should spend 30 on the better brands.. but these worked fine for my cv bolts which were 30 pounds torque.

Z-man

Thanks for the quick reply Devon!
-Z.

Bones944

I have a set I bought at Carquest for $14, but for the cam bolt I wanted the peace of mind of a quality hardened tool. I've had to deal with a stripped cam bolt before, and it was an hour of grinding inside the limited space of the retaining collar, and it was due to a worn cheap tool. I replace my cam bolt now if it shows any wear at all ( they cost $3) and I bought the 10mm and a 12mm tool from MAC. Much nicer, cleaner tooling and much harder. MAC's are 1/2" drive too!

Shutemup

I asked a snap on guy if he knew what a cheese head what and he looked at me like I was stupid, anyone have a pic of the bolt head so I know what I'm lookin for?

Bones944

The Snap-On catalog lists them as a triplesquare tool. Have him look on his laptop in his truck......it's listed.

Shutemup

thanks, but what the hell do they look like?

Bones944

They look like an allen bolt, but instead of 6 points, they have 12. Aren't the door hinges attached with cheeseheads? If not, take a look at your CV's, the 6 bolts that attach each CV to the carrier are cheeseheads.

Shutemup

So it's like a torx?

same as that damned bottom alternator bolt?

Bones944

They have more points than torx heads

iloveporsches

Here's a pic of the tool:

Shutemup

ahhh, thanks.......shall have to get a set of them

who has a good set at decent prices?