Just bought a 1988 944S!
#1
Burning Brakes
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Hey there 944 people, I just took my dive into Porscheland with the purchase of a 1988 944 S with 80k miles. Really a clean example for a dirty cheap price ($2500!). Not exactly the 951 I wanted, but again I can't argue with the price for a 16 valve. Needs some body work from a really poor break-in attempt as well as rebuilt control arms. Maybe not as fast as my modified 9000 turbo but sure eats it alive in the corners.
Everyone seems real helpful with the techincal side of things, so I have a question or two (and many more to come). I have very few service records for they car--only one for the clutch and another for the A/C. I'm assuming I should do the timing and balance shaft belts before I even really drive the car? Is there any indication I can get on their age (inspection)? Also, the shifter seems really vague, i cant seem to find the 3rd and 5th gear gates well; is there a bushing for the shifter I need to replace?
The car is pretty sharp so I hope I can enjoy a long, fun relationship with my new Porsche and this board. Also, anyone in my area with a 944 that wouldn't mind meeting up with me for some advice?
Thanks,
Evan
Milwaukee, WI
Everyone seems real helpful with the techincal side of things, so I have a question or two (and many more to come). I have very few service records for they car--only one for the clutch and another for the A/C. I'm assuming I should do the timing and balance shaft belts before I even really drive the car? Is there any indication I can get on their age (inspection)? Also, the shifter seems really vague, i cant seem to find the 3rd and 5th gear gates well; is there a bushing for the shifter I need to replace?
The car is pretty sharp so I hope I can enjoy a long, fun relationship with my new Porsche and this board. Also, anyone in my area with a 944 that wouldn't mind meeting up with me for some advice?
Thanks,
Evan
Milwaukee, WI
#2
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First thing you do is park it and pull the valve cover. Take a very close look at the large plastic pressure pad holding up the chain that drives the intake cam. If it is yellowed and/or cracked and/or grooved by the chain; replace it now before you drive the car another foot.
In fact just replace it unless you can find honest documentation that the chain tensioner is fairly new.
Also replace the timing and balance belts.
NOW!
In fact just replace it unless you can find honest documentation that the chain tensioner is fairly new.
Also replace the timing and balance belts.
NOW!
#5
Burning Brakes
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I would like to do the belt service myself. I've heard of some luck with the aftermarket tensioning tools. Are these too inaccurate and risky to look into? I'm not thrilled being dependent on a shop or a 500 dollar tool to do some belts.
Thanks,
Evan
Thanks,
Evan
#6
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Congrats on the purchase Evan, I just bought an 88S myself! I am picking it up in about 2 weeks (seller was out of state).
I can't answer too many questions until then, but I'll be rebuilding the motor at the seller's place, then driving her home...so I may have more feedback on how difficult it is to replace "X" part after I'm done with the rebuild!
But at 80k, if the belts look good and she isn't making any noises, I think you'll be fine driving her for a while until you get the chance to replace the usual wear items. That's barely broken in for crying out loud! Nice deal!
Any pics??
I can't answer too many questions until then, but I'll be rebuilding the motor at the seller's place, then driving her home...so I may have more feedback on how difficult it is to replace "X" part after I'm done with the rebuild!
But at 80k, if the belts look good and she isn't making any noises, I think you'll be fine driving her for a while until you get the chance to replace the usual wear items. That's barely broken in for crying out loud! Nice deal!
Any pics??
#7
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Evan, welcome to the Rennlist community... this place is not only the best place to find any Porsche-related info, you'll find most of us to be generally agreeable and try to get to meets and fun-runs
The membership will pay for itself in less than a month, guaranteed! If you aren't yet, you'll be addicted soon enough.
Post pics of the car when you get the chance!
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Post pics of the car when you get the chance!
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#8
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If you don't know for sure how long since the timing belts were done, REPLACE THEM NOW.
Suggested belt life is 30,000 miles, water pump every other belt change. Since the water pump is behind the belts change it too.
If you lose a belt or a water pump siezes you can be looking at $3,000-$5,000 to repair the head since it always takes valves with it and generally damages the head.
The cam chain pad is $25 and easy to change and damage from it going is bad too.
I don't normally run around yelling "the sky is falling" but the downside is very deep on these cars.
Suggested belt life is 30,000 miles, water pump every other belt change. Since the water pump is behind the belts change it too.
If you lose a belt or a water pump siezes you can be looking at $3,000-$5,000 to repair the head since it always takes valves with it and generally damages the head.
The cam chain pad is $25 and easy to change and damage from it going is bad too.
I don't normally run around yelling "the sky is falling" but the downside is very deep on these cars.
#9
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I used the aftermarket tool, the $10 Kriket from NAPA. Worked fine. About a year ago (maybe more) someone did a comparison between the Kriket, the Blazack tool (same as the kriket AFAIK but $50), and the official P201 tool. All gave basically the same results. I used the kriket to tension my belts, and they've been fine for a good 5000 miles.
And do what SoCal said, check the tensioner pad. A new S head will cost you the price of the car, or more!
For the shifter, you can check the linkage at the top of the transmission as a cheap, easy fix if that's the problem. If that turns out ok, you can replace some bushings in the shifter itself that should clean up the slop. Not sure which vendors sell it, but others would know.
Congradulations and welcome!
And do what SoCal said, check the tensioner pad. A new S head will cost you the price of the car, or more!
For the shifter, you can check the linkage at the top of the transmission as a cheap, easy fix if that's the problem. If that turns out ok, you can replace some bushings in the shifter itself that should clean up the slop. Not sure which vendors sell it, but others would know.
Congradulations and welcome!
#12
Burning Brakes
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Wow lots of replies so far! I'm definately joining as an official Rennlist member real soon. Glad to see that the aftermarket tensioner is working well for some, I can't afford much when working on a college degree (well, maybe a porsche here and there). I dont think i can put a picture on since I am not a registered member.
And yea, thanks again for showing me those terrible pictures...they very much frighten me. I've heard alot of horror stories of destroyed heads and valves, and I guess those pictures are like those gruesome videos they showed us back in drivers ed.
And yea, thanks again for showing me those terrible pictures...they very much frighten me. I've heard alot of horror stories of destroyed heads and valves, and I guess those pictures are like those gruesome videos they showed us back in drivers ed.
#14
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Tensioner pad $25 www.alzim.com
Please don't get me wrong, I love my car, but I won't let it bite me in the *** either.
Please don't get me wrong, I love my car, but I won't let it bite me in the *** either.
#15
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I don't think Rennbay has the pad but www.allzim.com ( triscadek put up a bad link) has the top pad for $35( the price went up). The lower pad is unavailable.