Anyone that knows control arms and a side note for people with the late control arms.
04-11-2004, 02:55 AM
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Anyone that knows control arms and a side note for people with the late control arms.
Ok my control arms aren't rebuildable. They have to much wear in the pockets. For all of you that haven't rebuilt your control arms and are waiting to don't as soon as you have any amount of play STOP. Take the control arms out and rebuild them with rennbays kit as it is cheap and will save you a lot of money. The ball joint will wear your control arm pocket and then you are stuck with an non-rebuildable control arm. Mine were not that bad the first time around but just enough to make the top bushing slowly be pushed out the top.
Now for you people that know control arms I don't have a lot of money right now being out of a job so I'm looking to get the steal(early) control arms and I have an 86 951 which is the early offset. I'm pretty sure they will plug and play just fine but want to make sure everything will be fine and that I don't get pissed of at myself even more. I know some use them on the track because they are cheaper to get and easy to change out. I know they flex a little. I have an manual rack which shouldn't affect anything with the steal control arms. Are the sway bar mounting points the same for the 24mm sway bar the 86 951 has? Also where is the best place to get them, I need the whole set up. I will later probably go back to the late control arms at the cost of around 400$ each new or maybe just upgrade to something aftermarket. For now I just need to get the cheapest so the steal ones will work if they fit which I believe they do without anything needed. Anyone that knows for sure please let me know. I checked into the prices it looks to be around 150$ to both ready to go with ball joint and all the bushings.
Now for you people that know control arms I don't have a lot of money right now being out of a job so I'm looking to get the steal(early) control arms and I have an 86 951 which is the early offset. I'm pretty sure they will plug and play just fine but want to make sure everything will be fine and that I don't get pissed of at myself even more. I know some use them on the track because they are cheaper to get and easy to change out. I know they flex a little. I have an manual rack which shouldn't affect anything with the steal control arms. Are the sway bar mounting points the same for the 24mm sway bar the 86 951 has? Also where is the best place to get them, I need the whole set up. I will later probably go back to the late control arms at the cost of around 400$ each new or maybe just upgrade to something aftermarket. For now I just need to get the cheapest so the steal ones will work if they fit which I believe they do without anything needed. Anyone that knows for sure please let me know. I checked into the prices it looks to be around 150$ to both ready to go with ball joint and all the bushings.
04-11-2004, 03:16 AM
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You will need the early end bushings for the sway bar. The steel arms do not use the double ended link. The ends of the 86 front sway bar that I salvaged are the same diameter as the one on the 83. So the early bushings should work. I've also read that some of the mid 80's VW front arms are the same as the early 944's.
04-11-2004, 03:41 AM
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Here's a post I did some time ago - should have all of the relevant data:
Our site is down right now, so I can't see the prices but it's not quite $150 for both sides depending on how you get the rear clips, etc.
Most steel arms will come with both the front and rear bushings already mounted. Be careful - some are the VW mounts which are not useful. Some of the nuts and bolts (for the ball joints) are generic and can be found locally - or, you can do what most do and bore the 7mm out to 5/16" since 7mm is so hard to find.
There are a number of ways to retrofit the steel arms - personal choice and money dictate how you go about it.
Yes, they will fit... but, you need more than that to convert properly:
- Control Arm (2) 171.407.153.D
- Ball Joint (2) 171.407.365.G
- Bolt (ball-joint, M7x20) (6) N.040.204.3
- Nut (ball-joint, M7) (6) N.011.007.7
- Lock Washer (ball-joint, A7) (6) N.042.011.1
- Lock Nut (spindle clamp, M10) (2) N.021.130.2
- Front Bushing (2) 171.407.182.D
- Washer (front bushing, A13) (4) N.011.531.5
- Lock Nut (front bushing, M12) (2) N.021.131.1
- Rear Bushing (2) 477.407.181.A
Also, you'll need the rear bushing clips (not available new)
- Rear Clip (2) 477.407.169
You can reuse the front and rear bolts only. Expect to pay $5-10 per clip from a dismantler or used parts source.
When installing the rear bushing, it is hammered or pressed on (pressure fit)... so you need to accurately set the loaded angle of incidence prior to installing. They can be removed by cutting, but are then unuseable. The bushing works via the flex of the rubber, not by any mechanical movement... you do not want preload on the rubber as this may cause poor handling and premature failure.
You'll also need to modify or retrofit the stabilizer bushings. The late model drop link can be used on the steel arms, but should be fortified. The early bushings and clamps can be used with all later stabilizers, though the 26.8mm and 30mm bars will require you bore the stock bushing out a bit (~21.5mm)
Parts you may need (if using the early style stabilizer ends):
- Bracket (left) (1) 944.343.735.00
- Bracket (right) (1) 944.343.736.00
- Bushing (2) 171.411.314.A
- Bolt (M8x22) (4) N.010.241.11
- Lock Nut (M8) (4) 900.910.022.09
- Control Arm (2) 171.407.153.D
- Ball Joint (2) 171.407.365.G
- Bolt (ball-joint, M7x20) (6) N.040.204.3
- Nut (ball-joint, M7) (6) N.011.007.7
- Lock Washer (ball-joint, A7) (6) N.042.011.1
- Lock Nut (spindle clamp, M10) (2) N.021.130.2
- Front Bushing (2) 171.407.182.D
- Washer (front bushing, A13) (4) N.011.531.5
- Lock Nut (front bushing, M12) (2) N.021.131.1
- Rear Bushing (2) 477.407.181.A
Also, you'll need the rear bushing clips (not available new)
- Rear Clip (2) 477.407.169
You can reuse the front and rear bolts only. Expect to pay $5-10 per clip from a dismantler or used parts source.
When installing the rear bushing, it is hammered or pressed on (pressure fit)... so you need to accurately set the loaded angle of incidence prior to installing. They can be removed by cutting, but are then unuseable. The bushing works via the flex of the rubber, not by any mechanical movement... you do not want preload on the rubber as this may cause poor handling and premature failure.
You'll also need to modify or retrofit the stabilizer bushings. The late model drop link can be used on the steel arms, but should be fortified. The early bushings and clamps can be used with all later stabilizers, though the 26.8mm and 30mm bars will require you bore the stock bushing out a bit (~21.5mm)
Parts you may need (if using the early style stabilizer ends):
- Bracket (left) (1) 944.343.735.00
- Bracket (right) (1) 944.343.736.00
- Bushing (2) 171.411.314.A
- Bolt (M8x22) (4) N.010.241.11
- Lock Nut (M8) (4) 900.910.022.09
Most steel arms will come with both the front and rear bushings already mounted. Be careful - some are the VW mounts which are not useful. Some of the nuts and bolts (for the ball joints) are generic and can be found locally - or, you can do what most do and bore the 7mm out to 5/16" since 7mm is so hard to find.
There are a number of ways to retrofit the steel arms - personal choice and money dictate how you go about it.
04-11-2004, 03:43 AM
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I just emailed you. I have a set of drilled and cupped steel arms you can have for the shipping cost. I should be able to switch them out and send them by the end of next week. I am waiting for a set of aluminums to come in.
The steel ones are being run on my 86 with stock sway bars and bushings so they are as plug and play as they get.
The steel ones are being run on my 86 with stock sway bars and bushings so they are as plug and play as they get.
04-11-2004, 11:45 AM
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Luis Yes it seems like it's them. The steering checked out fine but the ball joints are toast with the control arms.
Travis Thanks a bunch I will get a hold of you to remind you about the steal control arms when you get them off your car.
Thanks to everyone that posted here in this post and the other post about my suspension/steering problem.
Travis Thanks a bunch I will get a hold of you to remind you about the steal control arms when you get them off your car.
Thanks to everyone that posted here in this post and the other post about my suspension/steering problem.
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04-11-2004, 02:28 PM
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Originally posted by Travis - sflraver
I just emailed you. I have a set of drilled and cupped steel arms you can have for the shipping cost. I should be able to switch them out and send them by the end of next week. I am waiting for a set of aluminums to come in.
The steel ones are being run on my 86 with stock sway bars and bushings so they are as plug and play as they get.
I just emailed you. I have a set of drilled and cupped steel arms you can have for the shipping cost. I should be able to switch them out and send them by the end of next week. I am waiting for a set of aluminums to come in.
The steel ones are being run on my 86 with stock sway bars and bushings so they are as plug and play as they get.
04-21-2004, 07:20 PM
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Thanks Travis I recieved them today going to put them in tomorrow since I have some buyers looking at my parents house for sell and I'm suppose to show them the house. Thanks everyone for the helpful information. Great birthday gift to get today 
LaTer
LaTer
