The other topic was getting a little long so I'd thought I'd put this pics in their own topic for anyone interested who may not want to read through the other.

This is a close-up of the Pos cable to show how well built it is. Notice the careful heat-shrinking and inline fuse:



Close-up of cable end (cat hair not included).



This is the battery ground:



The positive cable:



The supplemental engine ground:



The supplemental positive for the relay/fuse box:



And all the extras (dialectric grease is missing from the photo but come in kit):

 

Oooo..I need those plastic ties that hold the wires to the firewall. Glad I took the plunge.

Picking up the money order today Dan and will be in the mailed this afternoon.

 

Quality! Gonna get me one of those!

 

I gotta say, Dan's wiring setups are really incredible. My only gripe is the wireharness is made of a fiberglass material...which lead to some very itchy forearms! Though i ended up selling the lightkit, ill probably end up buying it again with the battey cables if i ever get this 944 im looking at. This time however, i will be installing the kit with long sleeves on .

 

Haha, I really hate fiberglass too, but few other materials match it's effectiveness and cost, so...
Lookin real good Iceshark! Looks just like what I would expect from what you have said.
Big thumbs up on the quality.

Does anybody have pics like that of the headlight wiring kit?
I am curious about the plugs and relays and such.

 

this is a stupid question, but

where do you buy the iceshark batery cable kit??

 

Contact Dan Wray (Iceshark on this forum). Send him a PM or e-mail.

 

How do you keep that bolt on the positive cable (4" from the teminal) from touching anything (once installed)?

 

Kevin -

That bolt is used in the event the 150amp fuse blows.

 

He's talking about the small bolt on connecting the fuse to the positive cable (fourth picture).

I can't answer that as I haven't installed them yet. Maybee Dan (Iceshark) will answer.


Daniel

 

OK, that would allow you to bypass the fuse if it blows, in case of emergency.

Do you change that entire 6" section to change the fuse? Or is the fuse inside that black case? Where do you get a spare?

But my original question is, in normal operation, how do you make sure that bolt does not touch anything? The positive cable is already very close to the windshield frame and hood.

 

 

The fuse in in the black case. That line is very stiff and will not move much. It should be run toward the front of the car and through the battery box. When installed, the fuse and bolt will sit next to the battery away from any metal.

Does that make sense?

Daniel

 

Strekfu....!!!

Vac that carpet, man!!!

I'm about to hack up a hairball just looking at it

Jim 1987 944S (IceShark rules!!! and I've got to vaccum my house too... same problem!!!)

 

I can't keep up with the dog and cat both blowing their winter coats. Damn pets just won't stop shedding. I don't have to sleep with a blanket anymore because of all that hair.

But thanks for noticing......