clouddomino

Does anyone know if 951 brakes and caliper set up can be installed on a 944 n/a w/o converting a bunch of stuff? Other than Wheel size, rotor size and calipers what other differences are there in the N/A set up vs the turbo setup? I'm asking because I'd like to do a big red brake set up which i can only find for turbo cars, would I be able to install big reds on a N/a without converting parts other than the rotors, calipers, etc.?

pete944

I think you need 951 spindles also. Make sure your wheels will clear Big Red calipers. For a factory 16" wheel you need 951 Fuch's or 'dials.

Tifo should chime in on this one. He has 928S4 calipers on his 85.5 and he knows every part you'll need.

Dave951M

Bear in mind when converting to Big Reds or to the S4 setup, you're increasing unsprung weight significantly. That is an issue on NA cars that have lower power levels to start with.

It can be done, you'll have to have the spindles and wheels too.

tifosiman

Here’s what you will need to upgrade an 85.5 944 to 951 brakes, a total list:

1 pair front 951 calipers and pads
1 pair 951 rear calipers and pads
1 pair front 1986 951 rotors
1 pair rear 1986 951 rotors
4 factory washers and bolts for the rear calipers (necessary to space them to fit inline with the rotor)
4 factory bolts for the front calipers
1 pair (left and right)of front hubs and spindles from a 1986 951 (complete with bearings on each)
1 pair of 1986 951 front struts.
1 pair of front brake hoses from any year 951 and the metal noodles that go with them.

Things that are nice to have, but not necessary:

Bias valve from any year 951, this bolts inline on the master cylinder
Stainless brake lines front and rear
New alignment eccentric bolts for the front strut/spindle interface. Sometimes they are re-usable, sometimes they are so chewed up it is worth replacing them.

Hope that helps.

M758

Personally I don't see the need for upgrades brakes on the 944 na. Stock set-up is pretty good. If you are not satisified make sure they in 100% working order and you can upgrade pads. Bigger brakes mean more unsprung mass which is bad for handling and more rotating inertia which is bad for acceleration.

That said 951 (86-88 non MO30) brakes are more than enough even for the toughest duty.
Turbo S (88S & 89, 928 S4) brakes are overkill
Big reds are way overkill.

I race my 944 and really work the brakes hard. I see no need to increase the rotor size. While it is not legal to upgrade in my class I also would not want the weight penalty associated with them even if they were legal.

You results or opinions may vary.

clouddomino

So if big reds aren't the way to go then what would be the best set up? Cross drilled slotted rotors and high perf brake pads?

Matt H

I guess the right question it, what do you plan on doing with the car?
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Predator

I've got drilled rotors and good street pads on my car, and it stops great. And they're manual, not powerassisted (for sissies)!

ninefiveone

No cross drilled slotted rotors, please.
A good oem replacement rotor will be better.
Ate Blue fluid, set of good pads.

Done.

M758

What is wrong with the brakes you have on the car now?

For my brake set-up I run drilled rotors, ATE blue fluid, stainless steel brake line, Hawk Blue pads, custom cooling ducts

I do run drilled rotors. I do not know if they are any better as I installed these at the same time as I did the ducts. Hawk blue's are great, but I race and street pads won't hold-up. When I did DE i used metalmasters and they worked great. ATE blue is good for the track since it has a higer boiling point and fine fore the street, but overkill if you are not tracking the car. For Autocross any fluid will do. ATE blue is good on DE/Street cars. I did the brake lines long ago. Suppoesd to be better than rubber. Not really sure. Brake ducts a great for the track, but can be fragile and I replaced my fog lights with these. Not needed on the street.

So are you getting brake fade on the track right now?

L8 APEKS

M758 is right on the money here...he has a great setup for track driving or aggressive street driving, plus it's cost efficient.

Some more aggressive compound pads, steel lines, a good 6.1 fluid and vented/slotted or drilled rotors to help dissipate water/particles/heat, and you shoudl be good to go.

Out of curiosity, have you tried the Ferrodo racing pads? I was very happy with these...very little to no fade, and didn't require nearly as much heating up as the Mintex. Didn't like my Mintex...have yet to try the Hawks.

M758

Actually my set-up is for racing and evolved from stock to this point as I progressed and found the new limits of the street parts. My setup overkill for street driving and possibly overkill for occasional track use too. Hardcore DE drivers would benefit from it as well as racers.

Fortunatly you can start street stock and add on as you start to hit the limits on the track.

Lead Foot 944

What about for an early car, like on my 84.....If I have the wheels and the calipers...what else would I need?

Thanks...
DAmian

Lead Foot 944

Anyone, Tifo..? I think your the expert on this...?

DAmian

tifosiman

I haven't done a conversion to an early car with the steel a-arms, but it would appear to me that the parts list and the work would be the same as with an 85.5 car. The offset is the same, so the parts should all fit. The only problem will be that you will lose your mount for the speedo sensor. I *think* it is possible to drill the 86 951 spindle to adapt it, although I have never done this myself.