Please post rear speaker install intructions
04-05-2004, 04:30 PM
#16
Race Car
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Originally posted by ryeske944
I was able to replace the rears by undoing everything except the window, bending the trim back, then undoing the screws using a powerscrewdriver bit and a pair of pliers. Tricky, but it works. BTW, I have an extra pair of new Blaupunkt 4x6 speakers if anyone needs some.
I was able to replace the rears by undoing everything except the window, bending the trim back, then undoing the screws using a powerscrewdriver bit and a pair of pliers. Tricky, but it works. BTW, I have an extra pair of new Blaupunkt 4x6 speakers if anyone needs some.
04-07-2004, 12:14 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Matt,
Here's what I've got so far. I'll need to update it, once the interior panel is installed, but this gives you a good idea.
Skip,
Hope you don't mind that I bummed the link.
Sam,
Here's to making you famous.
http://home.nycap.rr.com/projecthuli...kerInstall.htm
-Jon
Here's what I've got so far. I'll need to update it, once the interior panel is installed, but this gives you a good idea.
Skip,
Hope you don't mind that I bummed the link.
Sam,
Here's to making you famous.
http://home.nycap.rr.com/projecthuli...kerInstall.htm
-Jon
04-07-2004, 05:30 AM
#19
Track Day
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Rear or not to rear?
I'm at the same stage you all are. trying to figure out what to do now that I changed my mind after already putting some 4x6 Boston Cx7E's back there. They were ok when I was low fi but now they are gonna go.
As I read more and more though, I have found a fair number of very high end installs skip the rear speakers entirely. I spoke with an audio engineer at Diamond Audio and he suggested putting 2 way components in the doors with 200W to each side. This is with S500s which just fit in stock cutouts if you have 10 speaker option door panels or swap with a matching 968 panel. he suggested 6.5" speakers in the back hooked up on the rear audio fill channel on the door's crossovers thus making a 3 way system. The RAF gets 15-20% of power so you get an attenuation and delay that is appropriate for a small sports car. This is to build a 3 way system Front L/R plus sub enclosure with electric crossover in your amp. He didn't think a 5 channel system was going to help as much as more power in the front of your stage and prevents the "music coming from behind listener effect"
But as I read more 911 installs here on rennlist some who have tried it all found a big improvment in putting thier front 2 way compoents in the kick panels and not in the doors. This improved the front stage more and then your head is more on axis with the tweeters. What do the veterans think?
Look for posts by Doug H
thread here
This guy has tried about everything !
Then look for old posts by DrZ
thread here
for a small unobstrusive sub box and great install photos check this Sac area installer:
his site
As I read more and more though, I have found a fair number of very high end installs skip the rear speakers entirely. I spoke with an audio engineer at Diamond Audio and he suggested putting 2 way components in the doors with 200W to each side. This is with S500s which just fit in stock cutouts if you have 10 speaker option door panels or swap with a matching 968 panel. he suggested 6.5" speakers in the back hooked up on the rear audio fill channel on the door's crossovers thus making a 3 way system. The RAF gets 15-20% of power so you get an attenuation and delay that is appropriate for a small sports car. This is to build a 3 way system Front L/R plus sub enclosure with electric crossover in your amp. He didn't think a 5 channel system was going to help as much as more power in the front of your stage and prevents the "music coming from behind listener effect"
But as I read more 911 installs here on rennlist some who have tried it all found a big improvment in putting thier front 2 way compoents in the kick panels and not in the doors. This improved the front stage more and then your head is more on axis with the tweeters. What do the veterans think?
Look for posts by Doug H
thread here
This guy has tried about everything !
Then look for old posts by DrZ
thread here
for a small unobstrusive sub box and great install photos check this Sac area installer:
his site
04-07-2004, 12:18 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Skids,
The 6.5's are definitely a compromise, but the system you're describing uses the factory 10 speaker door setup, which places the midrange in a very poor position. Specifically, it locates them so that they fire directly into the hip of the passenger or driver.
In my setup, I'll be running 5 1/4 component speakers in custom door pods. This places the midrange in a far better location than the factory 10 speaker mounts. By keeping the tweeter close to the woofer, I'll also have improved imaging over the factory 10 speaker setup.
Ideally, I would seal the rear speaker locations, mount a sub in the back, and be done with it, but I've been hesitating on the sub. We'll see what next year brings, as the next round of cash feeding is going toward safety equipment for DE's.
Again, the 6.5's are definitely a compromise, but they will allow your system to reach farther down the range then the factor 4x6's could ever hope to go.
-Jon
The 6.5's are definitely a compromise, but the system you're describing uses the factory 10 speaker door setup, which places the midrange in a very poor position. Specifically, it locates them so that they fire directly into the hip of the passenger or driver.
In my setup, I'll be running 5 1/4 component speakers in custom door pods. This places the midrange in a far better location than the factory 10 speaker mounts. By keeping the tweeter close to the woofer, I'll also have improved imaging over the factory 10 speaker setup.
Ideally, I would seal the rear speaker locations, mount a sub in the back, and be done with it, but I've been hesitating on the sub. We'll see what next year brings, as the next round of cash feeding is going toward safety equipment for DE's.
Again, the 6.5's are definitely a compromise, but they will allow your system to reach farther down the range then the factor 4x6's could ever hope to go.
-Jon
04-07-2004, 12:34 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
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With Infinity Kappas, I recommend an amp with at ~50-60W RMS per channel. Kappas do not sound right without enough power to them. As for Kappas in the front, the speaker grilles in my 'S' are different from the plastic covers. Mine have a metal grille, they are stock as well. I can post a picture later. The cover simply pushes onto/around the speakers with no screws (don't fall off either). Putting 6.5's in the back does sound better than the 4x6's. However, some of the 944's have an opening for a 4x6, the later cars have an opening for a 4x6 and 6.5 with a bracket already there to cover the 6.5 opening.
04-08-2004, 01:05 AM
#23
Pro
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Thanks alot!
Sucks that I have an 86' though, so its either cut into metal or stick with 4x6's...Might just ad a small 8" in the back if it comes to that. I wish I had the time and energy to do those customs in the rear seat floors, that looks awesome!
Sucks that I have an 86' though, so its either cut into metal or stick with 4x6's...Might just ad a small 8" in the back if it comes to that. I wish I had the time and energy to do those customs in the rear seat floors, that looks awesome!
04-08-2004, 01:20 AM
#24
Track Day
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After sifting through door panels again at Parts Heaven in Hayward and looking for two tone black/ tan I give up. They didn't have any 10 speaker nor 968 doors panels for me. Not even all black. And at $100 each it will be as much to just get custom kick panel pods made. Will post pics in a few weeks...