harveyf

You can get the crank bolt off by lodging a socket/breaker bar into position and hitting the starter. But you will need the flywheel lock to get it back on.

Tiger03447

Thanks Harvey I'll give it a shot. Progress has been made (so far). Thanks guys for all your help.

T&T Racing

Good description on what you are doing. Just another question, is this an engine short block that you personally witness running or was this engine short block purchased to be rebuilt by you? What year is the short block?

JustinL

I think you just got really lucky. The balance shaft covers are matched to the block and not interchangeable even between the upper and lower positions on the same block.

Charlie

I had no choice unless I found another block. I don't think I was lucky because the machinist helping me had worked on engines for 40 years and he said it would be no problem. I remember when I initially tightened the cover the balance shaft was completely locked. I don't recall it being hard to to fit, seems as if you could see where it was rubbing on the bearing but that was 25 years ago.


I did some searching about fitting bearings just to see if anyone else has done this. I found this post by Redlineman

"I have never had the problems you are having, unless you consider installing non-matching covers (lower in this case) to a previously shaft-deleted engine a related exercise. This is something I have done successfully.

I did it by hand fitting the bearings to the shaft. Install and torque to spec. Turn shaft, remove and inspect the bearing for wear points. Hand sand the back of the bearing at the "tight spot", LIGHTLY brush the bearing surface with 00 steel wool to clear the wear marks, reinstall to spec and repeat until it turned freely. It has worked well for over 2 years since in a race engine."

jeyjey

Why would the covers be matched to the block? Are they the only thing that controls the end-float or something?

JustinL

From the 968 engine workshop manual: Here's another thread about it and how the factory align-hones the balance shaft bearings.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...t-housing.html

jeyjey

I think I've mixed up the terminology. By "cover" you guys seem to be referring to 1/2 the housing for the balance shaft, right? (The other half being the block itself.)

I was envisioning something like the "lid" for the camshaft (ie: a circular cover that covers just the end of the balance shaft). But there doesn't seem to be one of those at all.

If so, yes it certainly makes sense as the bearing races would have been align bored.

tempest411

Think of it the same way as the crank girdle, or main bearing caps on any engine. If you look on E-Bay you'll find people selling balance shaft covers and crank girdles by themselves, not realizing those pieces are virtually worthless that way. I wrote to a few of these sellers explaining this, but they seemed not to comprehend what I was talking about.

In theory, the covers with the seperate caps could be swapped, as any mismatch at the front where the o-ring sits could be dealt with with a bit of sealant. The other unitized design could be swapped only if align boring was done, which would likely be pretty expensive. That's certainly not practical now, but one day when these cars reach a certain level of rarity it might be...which is why I cringe when people treat these cars and their parts as a disposable commodity.

Tiger03447

Dear T&T: This was a non-running engine in a car I got for almost nothing..It had been sitting in a field for about 10 years. It was a derelict, but as a "restorer" type person, I just couldn't let this car, much less a PORSCHE just disappear into the mud and turn into a total rust ball ready for the scrapper.

The BS covers came off the engine, and I presume they were original. I checked the number on the upper shaft cover and it was a (1). Upon further recollection, it seems that we had some difficulty with the rear bearing/shaft/seal combination upon the rebuild a few years back. I was able to get the crank pulley and the cam belt cog off the front shaft today. Therefore, I was able to remove the rear cover. I will soon get into the "meat" of the problem. But alas, I have to remove the intake manifold and associated bits before I can get to the upper cover. When I pulled the upper cover nose off yesterday, (about 1/4") it spun quite freely. I hope after this hiccup? the shafts will spin as freely as this nose portion did. I think while it is still on the lift, I will tackle the lower cover first, since it is the more "bound up" of the two, and easier? to access.

T&T Racing

Hi Tiger03447
is there a Teflon washer on the outboard balance shaft end between the shaft and the housing? Was the balance shaft housing torqued with the snout fully inserted but bolts not tight? For the end cap o ring seal, there are the same id diameter for early engines and 2 different id's for late engines. PET provides # to distinguish early and late blocks?

Tiger03447

Dear T&T: Yep, all the housing covers were torqued to spec, and the "ghost" washer was there as well. Perhaps I missed the correct number in the PET, since I was primarily looking at the WSM during the re-assembly. I do know the A & B type seals and their direction was followed with intense scrutiny. Good to know about the different end seals...I'll have to double check on all of that along with the engine number. I do know that the engine in the car, when found, had the original engine in it. (83). Thanks for your info and replies.

harveyf

"ghost" washer was there

I've never heard it called that but oh so appropriate. It is very hard to see, being clear mylar. I wonder how many engines get assembled with 2 or more stacked together?

Charlie

Make sure you have everything assembled in the correct order. Check this thread.

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...orqued-on.html

T&T Racing

Hi Tiger03447,
Compare your BS front snout with bushing as removed with 1st photo in posting. In the photo, the bushing is installed in reverse orientation causing the flange of the bushing to contact and compress the oil seal when the pulley is torqued.