Any suggestion on removing / prying loose the bellhousing on an Automatic? I feel like mine is stuck.
Here are the details -
84 Automatic - I'm changing the Damper Plate - If you are reading this, I'm guessing you know what a joy that is.
I've removed the exhaust, the CV Axles, dropped the Transmission.
Removed clamps for the Trans lines that run along the top of the Torque Tube.
I've undone the Trans lines at the connection points by firewall at the top of the bell.
I've undone the bracket that holds the cable for the Starter. (The starter is off)
The speed & reference bracket has been removed.
All 4 bellhops bolts are out.
All 9 Damper Plate hex sockets are out.
The TT is still connected to the back of the bell (because on an auto, with the clip on the front, you have to remove both together)
The Bellhouse will not budge off of the engine.
I'm thinking that maybe it's seized on the 2 alignment pins/dowels on the sides of the bell?
I'm trying to move the bell back so I can access that darn clip on the from of the plate (so I can remove the plate and change the Damper).
I'd that to use a Prybar and break or crack something.
Any ideas or experience in this area. Looking for suggestions.

 

I just removed my bellhousing.. Among other things that prevented me from removing it easily, it was somewhat stuck on the driver's side alignment pin. A few whacks with a rubber mallet freed it. Also be aware of othe stuff at the top that will get in your way; a couple ground wires, the speed and reference sensors, and that damned heater valve/hose assembly.

 

Bell is likely just stuck on the index sleeves. You will eventually also have to remove the shifter frame assembly and loosen the pinch bolt on the damper plate to drive shaft (allen bolt accessed through a hole in the bell) to be able to change the plate.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to at least start to see daylight on the passenger side after working on it yesterday.
I put 2 rectangular plastic pieces (with watery soap in between them) to act as a "Slide" where the Torque Tube sits on the rear crossmember.
Do you have to provide any support on the front crossmember? That was my next move... I'm thinking all of the weight is on the pins, so I was going to do something similar to take the weight (ever so slightly) off the front as well.
This has been quite a job; solve one problem, and then encounter a totally different issue you have to solve.

 

"Shifter Frame Assembly"...? Do you mean on the back on the Driver's side of the Trans? (I already removed it when I dropped the Trans.
I've already got the coupling bolt out. It liked rusty, so I soaked it in Kano Kroil - It came out surprisingly easy (compared to a number of other bolts)

 

I was referring to the cockpit end of the shifter. The cable is usually glued to the foam which is glued to the torque tube. When I say glued, I mean with rodent excrement and various nesting materials.
The engine will balance on the front crossmember but yes, changing the angle can relieve stress on the bell connection. Don't be afraid to give the trans end of the torque tube a good side to side and up and down wiggle too.

 

Thanks for the advise - Looks like I've got my weekend project identified.

 

I hate the heater valve assembly. It's totally in the way - although it did give me an excuse to buy a low-profile 13mm socket with a built in universal joint.
Seriously, these cars are so tightly put together, I have a difficult time imagining how they were even assembled in a factory.