Overheating
#17
Is it the one that goes from the water pump to the radiator? It's big on one end and small on the other. Usually those are a little long. When you put it on make absolutely sure it clears the power steering pump pulley. I had two of them get sliced because of that.
#20
They said it was for an 85 944, so I'm taking it that it's for the old displacement. I think my old one got a slice in it from the power steering pulley or some fan, because it looks like it was slowly eaten away at (Cuts in it make like a V in, where the bottom finally got a hole).
Edit: And yes, it is the one with the big end on one side and the small end on the other.
Edit: And yes, it is the one with the big end on one side and the small end on the other.
#21
The problem that you are having is exactly the same as mine, temp rises to 3/4, cooling fans kick on, temp goes to about 1/2. This cycle repeats on a continuous loop. One thing you can do is test your fans by jumping the plug leads out (take the harness off the radiator, there should be three leads inside the clip). There is a procedure for this on Clarkes. It will tell you if your relay is working ok. Mine was.
After I had done all of that, I would turn on the AC and see if the temp came down. With the AC on, and the heater off the cooling fans would kick on and cool the radiator. If you turn on the defrost switch, fans come on AND your heater valve opens up. This latter method(defrost) is a less accurrate indicator because the temp will come down by virtue of passing fluid through your heater coil(a miniature version of your radiator).
Here's the link to test it.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-01.htm
I also bled the air out of the system (front end jacked up).
I don't know though, the car still runs hotter (between 2/3 and 3/4) Some Rennnlisters think this is OK, while others say it is too hot.
What I haven't figured out yet, is where the temp guage draws it's data from. Does it come from somewhere on the radiator, or from somewhere on the block. This is important to know because if fluid is not getting to the radiator (bad stat stuck closed, or bad pump) then the temp reading will not be accurate because of potential flow problems to the radiator.
I'm starting to think that it's possible my problem may have something to do with higher ambient temps outside (winter is over) and that it may not be a problem at all. I still think it is running too hot.
Hope some of this may help you
After I had done all of that, I would turn on the AC and see if the temp came down. With the AC on, and the heater off the cooling fans would kick on and cool the radiator. If you turn on the defrost switch, fans come on AND your heater valve opens up. This latter method(defrost) is a less accurrate indicator because the temp will come down by virtue of passing fluid through your heater coil(a miniature version of your radiator).
Here's the link to test it.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-01.htm
I also bled the air out of the system (front end jacked up).
I don't know though, the car still runs hotter (between 2/3 and 3/4) Some Rennnlisters think this is OK, while others say it is too hot.
What I haven't figured out yet, is where the temp guage draws it's data from. Does it come from somewhere on the radiator, or from somewhere on the block. This is important to know because if fluid is not getting to the radiator (bad stat stuck closed, or bad pump) then the temp reading will not be accurate because of potential flow problems to the radiator.
I'm starting to think that it's possible my problem may have something to do with higher ambient temps outside (winter is over) and that it may not be a problem at all. I still think it is running too hot.
Hope some of this may help you
#22
I'd replace all of the hoses. They are all in the same shape, all old and ready to fail. Besides it's pretty easy (except the header core hoses) and you'll only have to fill/bleed the cooling system once.
The sensor for the temperature gauge is on the head, right next to the upper coolant fitting.
The radiator fans are two speed for the 85.5+ cars. They should come on low speed at about half way on the gauge, kick into high speed at the upper white mark on the gauge if everything is working correctly. Once you are moving faster than about 30 mph, the fans make no difference. If you're still overheating while driving then most likely it's a restriction problem in the cooling system (bad radiator, collapsed hose, scaled up/blocked cooling system).
Dal.
The sensor for the temperature gauge is on the head, right next to the upper coolant fitting.
The radiator fans are two speed for the 85.5+ cars. They should come on low speed at about half way on the gauge, kick into high speed at the upper white mark on the gauge if everything is working correctly. Once you are moving faster than about 30 mph, the fans make no difference. If you're still overheating while driving then most likely it's a restriction problem in the cooling system (bad radiator, collapsed hose, scaled up/blocked cooling system).
Dal.