Best tool prying open brake calipers without scratching them?
#16
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Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. Those with early cars, it's not quite the same for 2-piston calipers as for these 951/S2 4-piston calipers.
I don't want to remove the calipers to do this. I did try rags in the channel locks, but you need to "bite" the calipers with the lower plier jaw at just an angle that will rip right through the rags. I tried many layers of duct tape, but it still bit right through.
I'm guessing the best options are either a spreader, or ninefiveone's solution with a piece of plastic over the plier jaws.
Thanks again!
I don't want to remove the calipers to do this. I did try rags in the channel locks, but you need to "bite" the calipers with the lower plier jaw at just an angle that will rip right through the rags. I tried many layers of duct tape, but it still bit right through.
I'm guessing the best options are either a spreader, or ninefiveone's solution with a piece of plastic over the plier jaws.
Thanks again!
#17
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I too used Channel Lock pliers. I even tried the hard plastic protective ends on the jaws, sold at Sears. The jaws still bit through and nicked the calipers.
I then bought a $2 pair of immation channel locks, ground the teeth down on the jaws and used the protective ends from Sears...
Works perfect!
I then bought a $2 pair of immation channel locks, ground the teeth down on the jaws and used the protective ends from Sears...
Works perfect!
#18
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I just replaced all 4 rotors and new pads yesterday, and it's no big deal to remove the calipers. They are held on by (2) 19mm bolts each, and the rears have small spacers between the calipers and the hub housing. Once the calipers are off support them on something so they don't dangle by the brake lines or the sensors if so equipped. I used a box end 32mm wrench as a pry bar to spread the calipers. Don't forget to use some anti-squeal on the pads ( I used the spray stuff). Be very careful with the sensors if you are not replacing them, as they are delicate.
HTH
HTH
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#19
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Originally posted by Brian Fugok
I then bought a $2 pair of immation channel locks, ground the teeth down on the jaws and used the protective ends from Sears...
Works perfect!
I then bought a $2 pair of immation channel locks, ground the teeth down on the jaws and used the protective ends from Sears...
Works perfect!
#20
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I'll just continue on Brian's method even though that's not what I'd do, but since it's what you're planning on doing I'll add to it.
The little rubber protective ends are probably the same rubbery plastic material used for grips on tools.
Since you're going to be using it and crimping it - it will tear after a few times and you'll just end up spending a bunch on the little nubbins.
I'd just go to a local hardware store and buy the DIY tool grip stuff in a can (Rubberize-It) or similar and coat it with a few layers of that, because even after it rips, you could clean it off and add more to fill in the tear.
I figure I'll also let you know that it's not a good idea to cover your hands in it in an attempt to make gloves, it takes too long to dry and you have to keep your hand still for a long time. It doesn't work to boot.
The little rubber protective ends are probably the same rubbery plastic material used for grips on tools.
Since you're going to be using it and crimping it - it will tear after a few times and you'll just end up spending a bunch on the little nubbins.
I'd just go to a local hardware store and buy the DIY tool grip stuff in a can (Rubberize-It) or similar and coat it with a few layers of that, because even after it rips, you could clean it off and add more to fill in the tear.
I figure I'll also let you know that it's not a good idea to cover your hands in it in an attempt to make gloves, it takes too long to dry and you have to keep your hand still for a long time. It doesn't work to boot.
#23
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I can't believe it took so long for someone to say C-clamps.
If your worried about nicks, use a piece of wood on the one end, and leave the old pads in place in the other.
If your worried about nicks, use a piece of wood on the one end, and leave the old pads in place in the other.
#24
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Luis,
When I have done this, I pull the pad out of one side, turn it 90 deg and re-insert into the caliper then just ust it to pry against the pistons. Keep the pad side to the rotor so it will not mar the surface, and the backing on the piston at about the equator of the piston. Leverage the pad against the rotor and it should just slide back in. If you really need help, crack open the bleed valve and let the fluid escape that way.
HTH,
When I have done this, I pull the pad out of one side, turn it 90 deg and re-insert into the caliper then just ust it to pry against the pistons. Keep the pad side to the rotor so it will not mar the surface, and the backing on the piston at about the equator of the piston. Leverage the pad against the rotor and it should just slide back in. If you really need help, crack open the bleed valve and let the fluid escape that way.
HTH,