Wheel Bearing Race Install & Tool Issue
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
Guys, I was going to go this route some time ago. Took the hubs and races to a local shop. They dropped the hubs into a bath, heated them up, the old races dropped out, new races installed without the races being frozen. $20 USD. I insisted to pay them more, they said no, it literally took them a few minutes, most of the time was being heated and cleaned in the bath. Best part, my turbo S hubs were clean, undamaged by forcing things, and are perfect. Maybe there is a shop near you who can do the same thing?
#17
Three Wheelin'
Oh.. you know Jurgen alright: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EngMzIImtZk (Watch 1/2 way through)
Dare I ask.. what do you use the angle grinder for??
Dare I ask.. what do you use the angle grinder for??
Well I did something similar to try and press control arm bushings. The problem was, the rod snapped in two. So I thought, I know, I'll use a grade 8 threaded rod. That won't break, right? Well as the saying goes, now I had 2 problems. Instead of snapping, the threads simply stripped, leaving me with the bushing half way in and no way to remove my ridiculous broken DIY press. But since I used a grade 8 rod and nut, there was no cutting them off with a hacksaw. So I had to go shopping for an angle grinder just to get back to square one!
Of course this didn't happen to Jurgen because he's not an idiot like me, and I see he specifically mentions in the video that he knows the threaded rod is good for 5 tons or something. The one I used was probably an Ace Hardware 10mm threaded rod or something like that.
#18
Any transmission shop would be able to do it easily. They regularly clean transmission cases, etc. Or a radiator shop maybe. I didn’t want to damage turbo S hubs, they are really difficult to replace.
In any case, good luck. It was just an idea that I thought you might be able to take advantage of.
In any case, good luck. It was just an idea that I thought you might be able to take advantage of.
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
"...leaving me with the bushing half way in and no way to remove my ridiculous broken DIY press."
Too funny! In retrospect that is lol
Ok.. now to find a suitable fine-pitch 16 x 1.5 "spindle" that can take 5 tons...
Too funny! In retrospect that is lol
Ok.. now to find a suitable fine-pitch 16 x 1.5 "spindle" that can take 5 tons...
#20
Rennlist Member
I used the same kind of bearing kit for my front wheel bearing job. I heated the hubs and cooled the new races before tapping the races in. I used a stout hammer and had to wack pretty hard before the sound of my hammering changed indicating that the race was seated. So like @thomasmryan the sound change was my indicator that the race is in place.
I do remember that I had to support the hub on a very hard and sturdy surface before my hammering started to count. I used a steel plate on a concrete floor. There must be no give in that surface otherwise the support absorbs the hammer blows rather moving the race into the hub. Good luck.
I do remember that I had to support the hub on a very hard and sturdy surface before my hammering started to count. I used a steel plate on a concrete floor. There must be no give in that surface otherwise the support absorbs the hammer blows rather moving the race into the hub. Good luck.
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Any transmission shop would be able to do it easily. They regularly clean transmission cases, etc. Or a radiator shop maybe. I didn’t want to damage turbo S hubs, they are really difficult to replace.
In any case, good luck. It was just an idea that I thought you might be able to take advantage of.
In any case, good luck. It was just an idea that I thought you might be able to take advantage of.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Dan, when I did my front bearings I put the races in the freezer for a few days. I'm not sure if 1hr will "shrink" them enough. With my hubs heated in the oven and frozen races, mine literally dropped in with a slight tap of the hammer and bearing driver like the one you're using. You shouldn't have to grind anything.
#24
Rennlist Member
I'm really just reading this to learn but I also think that similar to what @951Tom said, cold will be your friend.
You're most of the way there at this time of year with where you live but I think that if you put the races into some dry ice for a bit you'll have an even easier job. Might save you some aggravation and pounding on parts.
Good luck
You're most of the way there at this time of year with where you live but I think that if you put the races into some dry ice for a bit you'll have an even easier job. Might save you some aggravation and pounding on parts.
Good luck
#25
Drifting
Dan, when I did my front bearings I put the races in the freezer for a few days. I'm not sure if 1hr will "shrink" them enough. With my hubs heated in the oven and frozen races, mine literally dropped in with a slight tap of the hammer and bearing driver like the one you're using. You shouldn't have to grind anything.
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have decided to make the Jürgen Press. I can drill out the centres of the key bearing install pieces I have and then source the proper threaded rod with nut. Not so easy atm with the lockdown but I'm in no hurry.
I like the press a lot; I don't turn wrenches for a living or work in a mechanical fashion and just don't have experienced hands for the hammer in this application. The press seems much more forgiving! Plus it's very by-the-book.
These are spare hubs so I have some time. Running an old car requires a machine shop lol
I like the press a lot; I don't turn wrenches for a living or work in a mechanical fashion and just don't have experienced hands for the hammer in this application. The press seems much more forgiving! Plus it's very by-the-book.
These are spare hubs so I have some time. Running an old car requires a machine shop lol
#27
Three Wheelin'
T&T Racing, can't remember exactly but I think 150-200F for an hour+. I remember I had to use the wife's oven mitt to handle it and she wasn't too thrilled about it all lol