Belts and rollers...
03-17-2004, 01:45 AM
#16
The new pump has a long metal guard installed on it, that protects a loose timing belt from slapping against the belt going in the opposite direction.
The new pump requires the larger diameter idler pulley (one with no gears). The old pump requires the smaller diameter idler pulley.
I would imagine that a water pump done a year ago would be the updated variety, since it is an improvement.
If your water pump was done a year ago, did they reuse the old belts and rollers?
More info:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-04.htm
The new pump requires the larger diameter idler pulley (one with no gears). The old pump requires the smaller diameter idler pulley.
I would imagine that a water pump done a year ago would be the updated variety, since it is an improvement.
If your water pump was done a year ago, did they reuse the old belts and rollers?
More info:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-04.htm
03-17-2004, 02:20 AM
#17
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ty...i am going to check tomorrow and see which I have...
another question I ahve is this...with my busy work schedule...and lack of tools...it will be cheaper for me to have a mechanic do the belt and pump...do you guys think that it would make a 30 mile trip? All that is wrong so far is just the rollers are whining a little bit...think maybe?
I am going to try to do it myself...i just don't see being able to do it...
another question I ahve is this...with my busy work schedule...and lack of tools...it will be cheaper for me to have a mechanic do the belt and pump...do you guys think that it would make a 30 mile trip? All that is wrong so far is just the rollers are whining a little bit...think maybe?
I am going to try to do it myself...i just don't see being able to do it...
03-17-2004, 10:42 AM
#18
For tools, if you don't do the pump, you (at least) need:
-flywheel lock (possibly optional)
-adjustable wrench
-13mm wrench x 2
-17mm wrench x 2
-10mm wrench
-belt tensioning tool
-white-out (for marking the belts)
-24mm socket wrench
-torque wrench
-jackstands
If the pump was changed a year ago, maybe you should leave it alone.
I don't know if you need to take the crank pulley off in order to get the timing belt off the drive gear at the bottom of the engine. You might be able to leave it on. If you have to take the crank pulley off you definitely need the flywheel lock and a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and the torque wrench
Most folks want $1000 to do the pump and belts.
If you only do the belts/rollers, it can be finished in a predictable amount of time. If you try to do the pump, you can have problems like I did (with broken waterpump bolts).
You could take off the timing belt covers to see if the any of the rollers have siezed, and so see how tight or loose the belt is. Overtightening the belts is a common mistake that can cause waterpump bearing problems.
-flywheel lock (possibly optional)
-adjustable wrench
-13mm wrench x 2
-17mm wrench x 2
-10mm wrench
-belt tensioning tool
-white-out (for marking the belts)
-24mm socket wrench
-torque wrench
-jackstands
If the pump was changed a year ago, maybe you should leave it alone.
I don't know if you need to take the crank pulley off in order to get the timing belt off the drive gear at the bottom of the engine. You might be able to leave it on. If you have to take the crank pulley off you definitely need the flywheel lock and a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and the torque wrench
Most folks want $1000 to do the pump and belts.
If you only do the belts/rollers, it can be finished in a predictable amount of time. If you try to do the pump, you can have problems like I did (with broken waterpump bolts).
You could take off the timing belt covers to see if the any of the rollers have siezed, and so see how tight or loose the belt is. Overtightening the belts is a common mistake that can cause waterpump bearing problems.