LeMans71

I don't know that the spring compresses that much over time, as much as the nut probably backs off and allows the perch to unload the spring. It will make sense to you as soon as you see it. Yes, just "tighten" the nut a few turns in the direction that compresses the spring, and you should notice a difference. I hope you're reasonably flexible - you pretty much have to lay on your back on the seat/floor in order to see and work up under the dash. Good luck.

Scott

Luis de Prat

I just added an image of the pedal assembly from PET. If you could point out the adjustment nut, it would be great. Thanks!

LeMans71

Luis, I'm sorry but I can't see the image in your post. However, in the parts diagrams I've seen, the spring assembly (called the "clutch power spring" I think) is part #16. The nut is under the perch on the end facing you in the drawing. Look at your drawing and let me know if that makes sense. Again, once you crawl under there and see it, it should make sense to you. You'll only want to crawl under there once, so take a few open-end wrenches with you. I can't remember what size it is, but take a 10, 11, and 13 and I think you'll have it covered.

Luis de Prat

Here's the image. I will try to adjust the preload. Thanks!

Luis de Prat

Well, I had another look in there and I'm afraid the cigar goes to nkgosselin, although thanks to Scott for helping me find the adjustment for the clutch pedal (it's a 13mm bolt, by the way) and making the car driveable again.

I had a cracked firewall on my 83 so I'm familiar with the problem, but I'm undecided about the best way to repair it. On the 83 I had a 1/4" thick metal plate riveted to the firewall, but this created some problems with the geometry of the master cylinder piston on that particular car. I'll do a search and see what other options there are.

Mr. Miyagi

The sticking clutch happened to my car the other day. I took a pic of what I found.
Im pretty sure its not supposed to look like that, it looks like something is supposed to go through the hole in the rod. Can anyone tell me whats wrong/missing or send me a pic of their clutch ?

944meister

thats normal, you just need to adjust the 13mm nut thats infront of the blue spring til it has enough pretension that it pops back to position.

Peter Fennell

Dear All,
Thankyou for the very useful advice here.
Facing replacement of cylinders or worse and all it took was a roadside fix with a 13mm spanner.
Great!
Peter
London

944S2 1990

dr914

it is always the hydraulics, I would replace both the master and the slave, they are cheap, just hard to bleed, we often wind up reverse bleeding the system

Tiger03447

Guys..there are several posts on here about clutch pedal adjustment.Whatever you do, don't ever, ever take the heavy duty clutch pedal spring assembly apart, like I accidentally did. I posted on here about how to best put it back together again. It is NOT easy....Ask me how I know....BTW while you guys are under the dash could you have have the time to look way, way up on the clutch pedal (above the pivot point) and tell me where the light duty spring attaches both on the clutch pedal and the where the attachment point to the car body is? It's a pull type spring with hooks on both ends. My car is an '83..Thanks

curtisr

If you're 'lucky' you may notice a slight drip from the slave cylinder inside the cab. The fluid slid down under the carpet making it rather hard to spot at first glance.

Peter Fennell

Thanks dr914
I don't think you were responding directly to my post but would you say that having adjusted the nut on the return spring I should expect to find there will be an upstream cause to address with the cylinders?
btw helpful to know that they are not as pricey as I feared!
Yrs, Peter

Zirconocene

You should pay close attention to what the more experienced members of the forum say (I'm talking about dr914, here) but, in my experience replacing my slave cylinder after doing my rear main seal, unless it's showing other obvious signs of distress, I think you're pretty good to go with your repair. The cylinders will wear out, eventually, as there's just no way to avoid some amount of corrosion in the cylinder over time. However, it's also easy to see if you have a problem on the slave cylinder. I haven't touched the master on my 944 but I did replace the master on my 928 and, in retrospect, my problem lay elsewhere; there were no signs of a problem anywhere and I tracked down the lack of a brake pedal to another fault. What I'm saying is, there are some easy things to check on your cylinders before you need to replace them. They're likely at a reasonable equilibrium.

That said, I'll give you the advice everyone offers, which I agree with: use a Motive power bleeder (or its like, as I don't know what you have access to across the pond). If you can get the nose of your car in the air a bit people swear by this method, as well (which is what dr914 is referencing for bleeding): (with the bonus that it only requires an old school oil pump and the same tubing you'd use for brake bleeding).

Cheers

s85b50

If the pedal sticks towards the end of the travel (2/3 way from the bottom) is it the pedal adjustment that's the issue?

T&T Racing

Where is the nut to adjust the compression on the heavy spring coil return spring. Clarks Garage procedure said it is hex st the end of the shaft but my 1983 944 has a round end. So is there a nut to adjust?