Considerations when lifting for offroad
06-16-2020, 06:24 PM
#16
Race Car
Thread Starter
Brother,
Well it'll be interesting to find out, I'll let you know the results based on this ride height!
I measured based on the conventional longitudinal driveshaft method. I can't see why cv's are different. Tried looking it up after reading your comment, but most diagrams are for the conventional driveshaft set up.
I've basically moved back to the front end. My main concern is the steering rod angle, because it is EXTREME lol.
I'm going to do something that is very common in the 4 wheel drive world; make a "high steer" set up. And for this I am going to run "double shear" though the low tie rod end receptacle and a beefy bolt on bracket.
Well it'll be interesting to find out, I'll let you know the results based on this ride height!
I measured based on the conventional longitudinal driveshaft method. I can't see why cv's are different. Tried looking it up after reading your comment, but most diagrams are for the conventional driveshaft set up.
I've basically moved back to the front end. My main concern is the steering rod angle, because it is EXTREME lol.
I'm going to do something that is very common in the 4 wheel drive world; make a "high steer" set up. And for this I am going to run "double shear" though the low tie rod end receptacle and a beefy bolt on bracket.
06-22-2020, 11:43 AM
#17
Race Car
Thread Starter
Rear end:
We spoke about this previously. CV AXLES.
Most 930 CV joints that are "plunging" (meaning lengthen-compressing like a slip-joint) are functional up to 28 degrees.
I suspect this would work for a very modest lift (I dunno maybe 4" higher than stock ride height), but when lifting bigger, one of the problems is the cv axle isn't long enough... And the problem with installing a longer shaft is when the cv prop-shaft is compressed to its shortest length (at zero degrees-perfectly horizontal from hub flange to tranny output flange) is it will bottom out. It is recommended that a minimum of 1/4" plunging movement be available at the tightest points (such as max suspension upward travel/downward travel or zero degrees angle).
Today I was beginning research for a solution to the suspension modifications on Wilson, my 88 944. I need to address the CV axles because I might need to lower the present torsion bar ride height, but if I can find a cv solution, than I might retain the present height (measuring 15" from floor to bottom of belly, just in front of the rear tire-this is roughly 7 inches lift from oem).
My goal is to have roughly 8" suspension travel at each wheel.
I measured cv angle at droop (droop is when the weight of the wheel and related suspension is hanging): 32 degrees.
Measured at ride height (vehicle at rest on ground): 22 degrees.
I got a problem. CV axles, like u-joints are weakest at severe angles and failures increase with more engine torque and sudden traction.
Looking at the VW BAJA world, I see many products are available from the good old USA. The Porsche 930 cv is very popular thankfully.
UPGRADE OPTIONS. This gets pricey, but critical.
CV: The CV cages and races can be upgraded to cro-moly and can be super upgraded to 300M metal. https://www.racereadyproducts.com/cv-cages/
You can upsize the 930 to 934 cv joint which is bigger. And there are about 15 variations.
CV propeller shaft: "Sway-away" makes upgrade shafts with longer splines that allow the cv joints to "float". https://swayaway.com/product/axle-se...ong-33-spline/
Edit: this is interesting, company offers a "counter-bore" cut for the CV STAR: https://www.kartek.com/parts/kartek-...-cv-bolts.html
06-22-2020, 12:15 PM
#18
Race Car
Thread Starter
Based on this Baja Bug supplier's website, I'd say I am doing the cv axle angle measuring accurately (which is similar to conventional longitudinal format measuring).
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V2Rocket (06-22-2020)
06-22-2020, 12:27 PM
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
The reason why I am able to run without the rear limiting straps, it is because I lucked out with notching the side plates (as shown above) and it just happens to hit the "stop". Note: at this point, the spacer is not being used, just the bolt & so the allowed movement is greater w/out spacer (note: I plan on trimming a spacer and installing it to solidify the rear assembly).