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If you remove that one lower rear bolt on the torsion bar end plate, can you get the control arm to swing down lower? (Disconnect the shock)
Once you do, you should be able to find an index position to slide (or lightly tap) the torsion bar back into place.
Rather than building a jeep spring cup suspension...Look at how the rear end bolts up.
The two giant bushings behind the doors, and 4-6 bolts/nuts running on the leading edge of the wheel well.
Could you build what are essentially spacers to hang the entire rear end lower? Like lift blocks on a truck.
Spencer, I don't know where you got this diagram from but its sooooo killer!
After your suggestion about the baja bug stuff I started looking. OMG! I found heaven!! Though I get so many questions about compatibility with Wilson that I get overwhelmed. Its way more up my alley then most the rally stuff I see.
However, it's very expensive some of the time. And covid virus has changed, is changing our economy as are other factors... so fabrication for extreme stuff is the only reasonable option for me. OR just stay small... don't drift... I first stated 2.5" lift over present ride height would be good. It would allow me to use oem brake lines and be easier. I dunno what I will end up with.
Wilson really just needs more/lift and travel in the front axle springs. I will be able to do that if I shorten the Jeep springs.
I found these VW lowering struts for cheap in Cali.
They will drop the bug, but in my case I have a different need (which is travel/lift from the front spring).
Using this technique of lowering the spring perch around 3", I might be able to get 1.5 extra coils which gives me more travel than if I kept the stock lower perch.
I mentioned previously how I can get frustrated with not finding the right front spring. The #1 problem with finding a match is Porsche uses two open ends on their coil spring (like a Ford p/up). Searching I could not find any acceptable 5" conventional coil spring with 2 open ends.
Van, yes I removed the spacer and later reinstalled the bolt without spacer. I just seemed to be able to get it near stock height 8" & 7" at rocker panel. Makes me wonder whats going on. Wilson was in an accident in the right side, maybe my t.b.carrier is a bit bent?
When messing with it I also noticed the rear shocks are the limiting factor for droop. I get no more that 5" droop with shock removed (it might be 4" with shock).
Spencer, you bring up a good question, part of the reason is money. I might be making a mistake.
Above: this is my half cage for reference to a question that I have. I will try to load it up.
Yeah below, you can see the back end is too low. I'm going to sell the torsion bar & front springs & shocks.
Okay, diagram isn't coming through tonight.
I'm considering moving the Jeep suspension into the cab (rear seat area), then building a metal box around it so the occupants wont get hurt. My question in the most general way is: is it a good idea or bad to tie the upper rear perch to the roll cage? Because I can make a wicked strong mount either way & its about the same amount of work & material. Pros & cons anyone?
Going forward with the Jeep suspension. Found out I can get Bilstein shocks to match the kit for reasonable price, but I will use the provided shocks to set up the car before upgrading.
Got word that it'll be 2 weeks because not really in stock. While I wait I am trying to accomplish what I can in terms of research, fabrication and design.
The rear springs are what I will start with.
Vans concern with the cv shaft range of movement is sound. From what I can see, it's max reasonable range is 4" down/4" up: total travel: 8"; so I will make this suspension have 8" total travel.
Interesting side note: I measured my beloved rear Bilsteins for oem 944 application. It only have around 4.5" travel.
Also noticed my upper Porsche shock mount is cracked in a couple places. Geeze!
My mission statement has changed from light duty rally suspension to heavy duty, and obviously more ride height than my original post.
I am not going full retard with this build, this will not include fabricating new control arms. I will being working with the limitations of the 944 cv axles and steer rack.
What you see here is Tony Hawk edition lower rear strut mounts being fabricated. These rear struts will mount to the lower shock mount but not the top shock mount.
Top photo shows the strut mounts. I was able to spend some time yesterday & determine I will be making a pad on top of the rear control arms, just slightly forward of the shock mount and some type of clamp around the control arm, so the shock mount shares the load with the top surface area of the control arm. Should be very rugged, and reversible.
Thank you Spencer. I looked on Pacific's website. I plan on buying some of there bits & pieces. I'm interested in many of there upgrades.
Did you know Dirtfish rally school has a video and the mechanic is talking about control arms & says Suburu aluminum arms are tougher than the steel ones?
Anyway, I tossed the last concept, went to the drawing board, incorporating skid plates for my aluminum rear arms.
Also, I have attached an internet sourced Jeep spring rate chart (I cannot assure accuracy). Some of the articles I read about spring rates is the TJ and later, heavier vehicle have a VERY SOFT spring rate!! The TJ is as light as 3200 lbs CURB WEIGHT but the bigger 4 door JK is somewhere around 4500. Yet most Jeep springs are 110-160 lbs/inch. I think the springs I bought will be purrrrrfect for me.
04-28-2020, 12:30 PM
