overheating
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: gainesville ga
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overheating
My car was overheating so I did a pressure test and found a leaking radiator. replaced the radiator and T stat. burped the air out and went on a test drive, did great for like 45 min but then overheated again. I let it cool down and tried to drive it and it overheated again then it cooled down while it was running. It went through this cycle several times. Im lost! help please . Thanks John
#2
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: State College, PA
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Please stop driving the car if it is overheating. Testing it like this is not the proper way to diagnose the problem, unless of course you want to buy a new engine down the road.
#4
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
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What do you mean by overheating. Did the cooling fans cut in and cool it down or did they have no effect and you needed to pull over and let the engine cool by other means.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Could be a number of things, hang on, others will post!
Okay, I have a suggestion, it's worked on two cars already - REMOVE the antifreeze overflow tank, completely out of the car. Use a hose, and flush it. Now, look at where the small hoses fit onto, especially the return to the radiator - is it corroded SHUT!? OR nearly!? That blew a radiator on my boyfriend's car, and nearly mine. I took a big ol' screwdriver, and routered it back out. Put it back on, runs better.
Also, what about the waterpump!? When was the last time that and the timing belt were replaced? It sometimes goes, and not even a drip is obvious, unless you remove the cover on the t-belt.
- Julie
- Julie
Okay, I have a suggestion, it's worked on two cars already - REMOVE the antifreeze overflow tank, completely out of the car. Use a hose, and flush it. Now, look at where the small hoses fit onto, especially the return to the radiator - is it corroded SHUT!? OR nearly!? That blew a radiator on my boyfriend's car, and nearly mine. I took a big ol' screwdriver, and routered it back out. Put it back on, runs better.
Also, what about the waterpump!? When was the last time that and the timing belt were replaced? It sometimes goes, and not even a drip is obvious, unless you remove the cover on the t-belt.
- Julie
- Julie
#6
Drifting
More info please.
Normal operating is as follows:
1st white LINE is 140F
2nd is 185F
Red is 220F
The t-stat should open at 185-190 and the fans should turn on at the same temp (more or less). If the needle goes beyond the 2nd line the fans should bring the temp down to the first. It should stay between them.
When the temp is beyond the 2nd line, the fans should be ON. If not check the fuse 25 amp fan 1 is space #15 and fan 2 is #10. If one of them is blown, you most likely have a bad fan motor. When the motor goes, it will draw excessive ampreage and blow the fuse.
Mine was fan #2 and it would let the temp go just up beyond mark #2 (enough to make me uncomfortable) but would cool down at speed (increased airflow).
Normal operating is as follows:
1st white LINE is 140F
2nd is 185F
Red is 220F
The t-stat should open at 185-190 and the fans should turn on at the same temp (more or less). If the needle goes beyond the 2nd line the fans should bring the temp down to the first. It should stay between them.
When the temp is beyond the 2nd line, the fans should be ON. If not check the fuse 25 amp fan 1 is space #15 and fan 2 is #10. If one of them is blown, you most likely have a bad fan motor. When the motor goes, it will draw excessive ampreage and blow the fuse.
Mine was fan #2 and it would let the temp go just up beyond mark #2 (enough to make me uncomfortable) but would cool down at speed (increased airflow).