Voltage Regulator - fail - Alternator Good - repair
#1
Voltage Regulator - fail - Alternator Good - repair
Hello, I am starting to replace the voltage regulator on my alternator. My battery kept dying, so I went to O'reilly's to have the battery checked and the machine results were that the voltage regulator was bad and the alternator was still good. I bought a new voltage regulator and I am trying to install.
This is crazy, it looks like I have to take half the car apart to change the external voltage regulator.
Has anyone replaced their voltage regulator WITHOUT taking out the alternator? This is on a 1989 Porsche 944 Turbo 951. Any information would be greatly appreciated!
This is crazy, it looks like I have to take half the car apart to change the external voltage regulator.
Has anyone replaced their voltage regulator WITHOUT taking out the alternator? This is on a 1989 Porsche 944 Turbo 951. Any information would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Pro
I've got a 88 n/a and I did it a few years back. Yeah, it's definitely a pain, but it can be done. Not sure of the exact differences on the 951, but I'm sure you probably have more to dismantle than on a n/a. I did dismantle quite a bit to access it (the air filter housing especially), but once you're to it, you can rotate it up and out towards the front of the car and slide it out. Getting the new one in is harder since you have to line everything up, but I did not want to remove the alternator either so I made it work.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Not sure if it can done in place due to the cooling air shroud. To remove the alternator on a 951 the coolant cross pipe has to be removed so coolant gets drained. Also the AFM, air filter box, boost pipes, and turbo J-boot. Then you should be able to remove the alternator from the car. Access to the lower mounting bolt will be from underneath after belt removal. Straight forward job but definitely a pita.
#4
Pro
Not sure if it can done in place due to the cooling air shroud. To remove the alternator on a 951 the coolant cross pipe has to be removed so coolant gets drained. Also the AFM, air filter box, boost pipes, and turbo J-boot. Then you should be able to remove the alternator from the car. Access to the lower mounting bolt will be from underneath after belt removal. Straight forward job but definitely a pita.