I suspect the location of the dipstick hole, relative to the windage tray was responsible for the oil spray.
Hard rights forcing oil against that side, followed immediately by max boost/crankcase pressure, blowing the oil up the tube.and overboard.
And impossible to duplicate just driving it around on the street!

The breather setup I used had 2 smaller hoses, one at the side of the block, and one off the V/C.
I suspect the one off the block was blowing oil into the breather can, which filled up higher than that entry point.
Effectively blocking flow from that hose, leaving only the small one from the V/C... not enough.

Long answer to a short question:
Don't want to vent from the D/S tube, for fear of it just filling up my catch can.

It was a bizarre set of circumstances.
Kept the D/S to verify whether oil siphons back into the sump through the dry sump pump (it doesn't).
Otherwise, I would have removed it and plugged the hole in the block.
Which would have left me unaware of having too much crankcase pressure, and probably chasing repeat, random oil leaks from every other possible place on the engine.

I'll post some pix of the breather setup as soon as I can lower the car down from the lift.
Using the real estate underneath it for 'shop debris' cleanup.
It's amazing how much (valuable!) crap accumulates over time...

 

Looks fast Nowanker! I like the rearwardness of the front engine for balance. Almost front-mid-engine. Keep up the good work!

 

Finally sorted the debris from the shop, and was able to get the car down from the lift.
Pix of the new breather setup... Drilled and tapped the blank boss on the V/C for a 3/4 pipe to 3/4 hose barb elbow. Secured it in place with that holy miracle JB Weld (don't scoff...)
3/4 ID breather hose, which was the same size I used on the 3.2L 951 motor. It never had a problem... I expect good results this time, too.

Crankcase breathing stock is done through a separator on the side of the block, but evidently, some models breath it from the V/C. Nice of them to make it convenient for me!
My stock V/C had just the hollow raised rectangle. I made the baffle plate, and stuffed it with 'Chore Boy' pot scrubber material for coalescing media.

Pix are of the first version, but the revision is similar, just more holes. There's a plastic deflector over the front 1/2 of the intake cam, to keep oil away from the filler cap. I used a 2nd one on the back 1/2, to keep it from spraying at the breather box.
Combination breather/catch can is a repurposed coffee canister from Amazon. Just the right size, and air tight where it needs to be. 2 stage oil separator, with more Chore Boy. 1 vent line from the dry sump tank, 1 from the V/C, 1 overboard.
The hold down is functional, but a little lame... it was low priority!

 

Thanks for putting that up mate, helps heaps. Good to see we are on the same wavelength as I was eyeing the same spot on the cam cover for the vent and the firewall area for the catch can! Any reason you didnt use the spot pointing rearward for the vent out of cam cover instead of where you went? Curious is all, not doubting your methods just wondering if there isnt anything I should be on the look out for. Is your return plumbed back into your inlet or vented to atmosphere? Id prefer to vent to atmosphere but given the proposed mounting location [battery tray area] im concerned about the build up of fumes; partially due to the proximity to the HVAC intake, and partially due to some recent under bonnet fires in the gen 3 V8 Supercars as a result of fume build up. Sort of thing ive never thought about before until that happened! lol

Whens the next track outing?

 

Picked the side location to better align with a hole in the cowl. Turned out not to be a good location after all...
The catch can is vented to underneath the car via one of the vinyl hoses out the top. It passes through the inner fender where the fuel lines come through.
Next track date is toward the end of this month. I'm optimistic!
...but I've been optimistic before....

Good luck with your project!

 

Out to Thunderhill last weekend with NCRC/ARC.
Finally got a full weekend!
No oil leaks, new breather/catch can works well.
After 2 days (90-95*...), there were about 3 drops of oil in it.
Zero issues, except my prehistoric Nittos finally coughed it up.
I heat cycled a new set of Hoosier A7s on Sunday, and was reminded just how quick the car is. Effortlessly, too.
My main goal over the weekend was t just to get some time on the car, so I ran the NT01s to the bitter end.
No point in burning up a set of Hoosiers...


Been a long process, and hopefully from now I'll be refining what's there, instead of just trying to make the f*cker run...

 

Good to hear you finally got it sorted - now you just need to sort out some video footage for those of us [cough me] that are still early on in the conversion

 

If there are any specific areas you'd like pix of, just let me know.
I think you have most of the tough things sorted out, with that bellhousing/flywheel/clutch setup.
Motor mounts are available off the shelf too?

Any thoughts about intake and exhaust manifolding?
I wasn't brave enough to chop up and reweld a stock intake, maybe introducing odd airflow issues, so went with the Gram's Performance manifold.
Sticks up through the hood....
MWR manages to keep it under, but I'm not sure how. They use a custom F cross member, maybe allowing a lower mounting position?
The engine angle was a compromise. Too much angle, and the intake stood way up through the hood. Too little, and it runs into the brake M/C.
RHD cars might avoid that scenario entirely!

Thoughts on engine management?
There must be aftermarket tuning software available for the stock VAG ECU...
Wish I'd gone that route, or Megasquirt, instead of AEM. At least that seems to be working properly now.

Good luck with the project!

 

Yep Jack does motor mounts too which Ive also acquired through him so should be relatively straight forward. The only "issue" I have with his kit is the clutch components the bell housing is designed around - the audi TDI engines werent available in manual form in Australia and theres no off the shelf single mass flywheel down here. Fortunately one of the local clutch manufacturers offers a conversion service where they will assist with mixing and matching of components - ive written down the notes in my site office during a slow day at work and from memory it was Golf Mk6 GTI/R Flywheel and pressure plate with a different 240mm clutch disc to suit the Porsche splines. Just requires me to fork out around 1500ish AUD which will have to wait as I have a few other non-Porsche projects which need completing first. What clutch were you running in yours? I may have missed it

Exhaust manifold I will probably need custom as the LOBB kit sits the standard manifold close to the chassis rails. Will attempt to make my own however suspect it will probably end in a rage quit. The other guys using this kit are either modifying cheap EBAY manifolds and mounting the turbo further forward ala 931, r using an Audi v8 exhaust manifold and modifying that to make it a log style setup. To be honest, I shouldnt need anything too fancy as im only chasing 400hp - anything more and I suspect my 016 will end up in shredded form even with an LSD and strengthening plate. S2 or Turbo boxes arent easy to find down here sadly, and when they do pop up, they are extremely expensive. Have a Kinugawa TD05 sitting on the shelf that was meant for another project that I might try on this thing.

Inlet im actually interested in what youve done. The Grams manifold looks really similar to the Honda Skunk2 one which is what Ive been eyeing off - plan was to weld a flange to the standard runners and then screw that on but clearances are a concern as I want the body looking standard. Any detailed photos you can show me here would be greatly appreciated. The other guys are using a later Golf manifold, i think Mk 5 Gti? As it points throttle body forward. Brake master/booster is still an issue on the RHD cars as its in the same spot as an LHD 944 - trust me, you dont want to know how much of a ball ache it was getting the brake pedal out as the bar runs behind the heater box and under the dash to reach the booster!

ECU depends on which model engine management the car originally came with. Mine is an earlier one so no VCT support. They are tunable but few and far between down here and its not like something aftermarket where the interface makes things easy. Im in a bit of a bind here as I am very familiar with Haltechs [my good mate and tuner actually helped them with the VTEC control development] but as far as engineering for road use goes, it would be so much easier to use the OEM ECU as there would be no emissions testing involved. Just another quirk of living in Australia!

 

I used a GTI pressure plate, an ebay GTI flywheel, and a puck-style disc that fits a Mada B2200 or Ford Courier pickup, along with a VW radial release bearing mated to a mounting adapter in the stock bellhousing.
LUK clutches offers single mass flywheel conversions for various BMW applications. Maybe they offer something for VW/Audi too?
Seems like there should be some combination of off-the-shelf components that could be used. Maybe needing some kind of spacer for the release bearing, to accommodate the shorter 'stack' height? Strictly guessing!
Is it super expensive to ship and import parts to Aus? Ebay Europe might have all the factory stuff for cheap...

I've never seen a RHD 944! Strikes me funny that they'd keep the M/C on the left, but I guess that makes sense given the angle of the engine.
I ended up with a dual M/C and balance bar system after trying many different non-boosted single M/C setups. Pedal effort and/or travel never felt right, but other folks seem to make it work out OK.
Some of the LS swap guys talk about using a BMW 2002 brake booster, for its smaller diameter. Some (most?) vintage BMW parts are either unavailable or stupidly expensive. I didn't try to find one...

I think you'd need to lower the engine a lot to make that Gram's intake clear the hood. Somehow MWR makes it clear. Partly (but not entirely) with an angled throttle body adapter.

Curious to know more about the AUS smog laws! Sound like the swap is legit, as long as it has the stock ECU?
In California, engine swaps must be 'complete'. Engine same year or newer than the car, factory (or 'approved') from intake all the way through the catalytic converter.
Not sure where the 'intake' starts, and don't care at this point... left the authoritarian nightmare that is California behind!

Good luck!

 

FWIW - I've been pretty pleased with my manual brake setup (needed to fit my V6).

I used a 13/16" aftermarket VW Beetle MC, mounted to the 944 cereal bowl with a plate relocated 3/4" up (to match the redrilled pedal pivot).
I use the stock NA calipers/rotors and have a nice firm pedal with good stopping with more effort than stock but not bad.

I previously tried the stock 15/16" MC and a 7/8" BMW MC which worked OK but required too much leg effort. 13/16" feels good, could maybe go a little higher than 6:1 ratio.

 

I tried the redrilled pedal/relocated mounting plate setup with stock M/C = way too hard.
Tried 19mm Audi master = pedal too long, effort OK
Tried 21mm Audi master = pedal too long, still sort of hard.
Big reds, stock 951 rear. Pad compound might have been a factor too... some rather ancient Pagid orange.
Happy with dual M/C setup!
Only took a month to build....

 

My MC would be about equal to your 21mm.
But the long travel is because of those big reds - lots of juice to move. Dual setup makes sense then.

 

Sent you a pm man.