When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The upside to revising the engine angle was increased turbo clearance on the R/H side of the engine. I was able to use an off-the-shelf SPA Turbo exhaust manifold.
Due to the shape of the 'snail', there wasn't quite enough room to orient it with the exhaust to the rear. I
f they made a reverse rotation 2871, it might have been perfection...but it all worked out OK.
Once it's done, it all looks pretty obvious, but believe me, packaging the dry sump pump and alt, and making the brackets was quite the challenge.
Found a Chinese knock- off Denso alternator off ebay for cheap... they're about the smallest available. I figured I'd use this one to mock up, then buy a real one... but so far it works just fine.
It tucked up under the intake pretty neatly.
I'm Using an AEM Infiniti 5 standalone.
Gotta say, it's the least user-friendly piece of electronics I've ever seen. Doing it over, I'd go with the Haltech or MS Pro.
Took me 2 months of going around in circles to make it run, and I was literally 5 minutes away from tossing that POS in the trash...
Apparently they're very sensitive to the timing of the cam signal vs. crankshaft wheel missing teeth... and tech support had no real concept about the specifics.
The car presently runs and drives, clutch works well, electric water pump too.
Have some fab work to do on the exhaust, need to lengthen the M/C pushrod (Booster delete), and probably re-bleed the brakes before I can drive it more, but the project is on temporary hold while we relocate from the CA Bay Area to Southern OR. In addition to the usual household debris, I have a full shop worth of equipment to move too.
Hoping to be back at work on it in 6 weeks or so.
I'll update the thread between packing boxes, and bring it up to its present state. Looking forward to next race season!
I have a 1.8T conversion on the back burner... maybe I can get to it this fall.
I'd love to hear your strategy on the flywheel/clutch/starter package!
If I was starting over, I'd probably go with a custom flywheel and 944 starter and clutch....
I'm suspicious about the strength of the 944 bellhousing after I took a piece out of it for the VW starter.
My initial thought was if I could make a bolt-on adapter for the VW crank and use the stock 944 flywheel. I don't know how much clearance there would be... or if there's a downside from moving the flywheel back 3/4" from the rear crank journal. That would let me use the stock clutch, throwout bearing, slave and starter. Second choice will be to use a custom flywheel.
I'm curious what you've done for the oil pan. I've got the AEB engine with the rear oil pickup... but I'm contemplating doing dry sump like you've done. Where did you put your oil tank?
I wasn't brave enough to try any kind of adapter from the crank to the flywheel.
A 3/4" adapter puts the nose of the input shaft in exactly the right place for the VW pilot bearing, which happens to be the right size...
Dunno how the flywheel/crank relationships compare.
I used a steel Rabbit oil pan as the basis for my pan. Basically copied the concept from a Super Vee dry sump pan, and made a new oil pump cover and pickup tube.
I'll post some pix when I can.
Used a 'Butler Built' 12 qt square tank, mounted in the passenger footwell. I'm sure round is preferred, but the square was much easier to package and is pretty nicely baffled.
I'm curious what you've done for the oil pan. I've got the AEB engine with the rear oil pickup... but I'm contemplating doing dry sump like you've done. Where did you put your oil tank?
I had chopped golf oil pan but I had to ditch it because was too small. Then I ended up doing it from scratch. Collar/flange is 6mm thick steel and pan itself is made of 2mm sheet metal because it is easy to weld . Now oil surface is well below crank and capacity is around 5L.
what are you both using for the ecu stand alone or stock with a flash?
I have Ecumaster classic ecu. Nothing to complain about it. I think it's reasonably priced and has a lot of features in that price range.
Then I ended up doing it from scratch. Collar/flange is 6mm thick steel and pan itself is made of 2mm sheet metal because it is easy to weld . Now oil surface is well below crank and capacity is around 5L.
That's a nice piece of work. Any chance you have the collar/flange in a cad file I could use to get cut out (either waterjet or plasma cutter)?
Unfortunately no. I bolted steel plate in to old oilpan and drilled holes using it as a guide. Then I draw cutting lines using a gasket as a guide and finally I just used angle grinder to cut it.
Thought I'd give a quick update, lest y'all thought I'd abandoned the project....
Sorry, no further progress on the car. But I have made quite a bit of progress on our move!
Probably 3/4 of the household stuff has made the trip, and the shop stuff is all here except one lift and my toolbox.
It'll probably take another 3 mo. before I can even get the shop set up though. It's packed in there... Is the game Tetris?
Don't really know the VW engines by number....
I used the earlier version of the 1.8T from a '99 (?) Passat.
Later ones have a front mounted oil pump that would interfere with the F crossmember. I'm using the factory oil pump as scavenge for my dry sump, but if you used a 2 stage (or more...) dry sump pump, I guess that's irrelevant?
Taking another load up on Friday, it's getting old. Hope to be out of Morgan Hill in another few weeks!
09-13-2019, 11:14 AM
