fezz

can anyone tell me what the best tool (other than the porsche tool that i cant find or probably dont want to buy) is to torque the gland nut on the strut housing? is there a spanner wrench with a pin? channel locks? how do i get a torque reading?

i uderstand it is important to get this nut tight, if not, it is subject to loosening and i would hate to have to take the mount apart a second time.

i've got a set of yellow dot springs from an 86 turbo - does anyone see a problem using these springs with my stock set-up and bilstein inserts in lieu of new 220# stock ride ht. springs?

BTW - for anyone planning on ordering bilstein inserts for 83-86 cars, they come with dust covers and built-in bump stop (of course i found this out after ordering new replacement)

thanks

SoCal Driver

I use a cheap 1/2" drive socket that fits the nut and go through the 1/2" opeing with an allen socket. I hold the socket with large vice grips. Use real vice grips as the teeth are hardened and will dig into the cheap socket.

If the top of the strut has the flats then I use an offset box wrench and a medium size cresent wrench for the flats.

If you have a 1/2" impact you might be able to drive the nut off.

Always pull the assembled strut out and put spring compressors on it before taking the nut off.

Manning

I think he is talking about the gland nut that holds the insert in the housing. I use a Park Tools or Campagnolo bottom bracket lock ring spanner as used on bicycles. Works pretty well, you just have to make sure you don't slip.

Skip

SoCal swings and misses - j/k The gland nut holds the insert into the strut tube/case. He'll need your sage advise above very soon though

Yeah, there's a $pecial tool. And, yeah, you don't want to own it. I use very large channel-locks or a pipe wrench (pipe wrench is better, but scores the nut pretty good - is relatively soft). Not to worry on the torque - spec is now "TIGHT!". If you can strip it by hand, join the circus. Throw some Loctite 242 (Blue) on there for an extra measure of security.

SoCal Driver

I guess I get a bit sweaty when someone starts talking about glan nuts.

Wow! The world is spining again!

fezz

socal - thanks for the lock nut advice - still trying to figure the best way to deal with that short of impact wrench. the top of the current strut has a screwdriver slot that is very difficult to hold. i've got a bent flatbar to slip into the slot to try and hold the strut to break the nut for removal. the new bilsteins have an allen socket and should be no problem - i may get that slotted socket so i can use a torque wrench and allen wrench at the same time - i'd like to actually torque the lock nut properly rather than guess. we'll see.

Manning and Skip - you answered my question - twist on it hard and a little locktite wouldn't hurt - i was kinda thinkin along the same line. thanks

any thoughts on the turbo springs - are they o.k to mount as a replacement for the stock springs?

Manning

The FSM indicate the free length is longer by between 1/2 an inch to 2 inches and that they are stiffer than what is on your car stock. Won't that kind of jack the front end up a bit?

fezz

sh*t - not what i wanted to hear.
stiffer is ok - i'd like to run 220#
longer is bad - i could only deal with 1/2"
i guess i'll set them side by side and see.
i may just put the stock ones back on and see how it runs with just the bilsteins on all 4 corners. the backs are in and made a big difference - i'm sure the new fronts will make it that much better. i'll go for stiffer stock ride springs at some point if it's necessary. thanks

nine-44

Anyone ever fill the free space in the tube with coolant? I worked at a local P-car dealer, I recall a guy filling a set of 911 insert style struts with antifreeze. He said it transfers the heat out to help cool them and helps prevent any corosion too. I beleive there was an O-ring on the cap nut to help seal it.

Skip

Absolutely, but I prefer transmission fluid (or actual shock fluid) - some that I pulled apart that apparently had antifreeze were real nasty and a bit rusty. I doubt it does much, but it certainly can't hurt. I believe the real point of cooling may be happening reverse to what you stated. The brakes are heating the spindle and eventually the strut. Heat's no good for the strut, so this thermal barrier helps to reduce damper overheating. Either way - it helps keep the strut cool.

fezz

i'll be using atf

Sam Lin

I fill with ATF, the purpose is indeed to get heat out of the strut core. That fluid gets heated up quick when the suspension is cycled rapidly.

Sam

fezz

FYI and Manning:

I did the strut, spring and rear sway replacement this weekend.
FSM indicated a 9mm difference in released length between the original springs and the 1 yellow dot springs from the turbo. They matched up same height and cut and droped in perfect. no change in ride height. The turbo springs were a little heavier and stiffer.

the bilsteins with new rubber mounts and replaced springs and a bump up to 18mm rear bar was a big improvement. I have a 25.5mm bar for the front that still has to go in.

Manning

Very nice. What color code were your original springs?

fezz

correction FSM states 15mm difference

they are 1 blue - banded around the strut housing.
from the manual:
381mm length; 2727-2800N spring force at length= 251mm
spring rate 21.8 N/mm
wire diameter= 12.0mm

the turbo replacements were (according to FSM):
1 yellow dot
396mm length; 3034-3118N spring force at length= 251mm
spring rate 21.8 N/mm
wire diameter= 12.0mm

i think this was the design, when it went into production they had the equipment set to cut and turn the wire and it was easier to change wire than change the setup. they used a heavier wire and cut the same size spring.

i havent done the math but i see the 924S and 944 through MY86 with sport M030 gear used 12.3mm wire with a 24.1 N/mm spring rate.

Anyway, probably TMI about springs - i just found it interesting.