Little oil drip by filter, why?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Little oil drip by filter, why?
So I've had a small oil leak forever on the 944S, and I'm finally thinking it's time to fix it: The underside of the engine is filthy, and it's annoying.
It only makes a puddle when running or just after stopping. With a flashlight I can see it's coming from the oil filter. Except I have it crunched down tight (have to use one of those things that fits on the filter like a cap) and it looks like it's coming right from the filter itself.
Any idea how to properly seal that filter to the console? The car is normally parked nose down, so it needs to always work.
Drip drip drip....
It only makes a puddle when running or just after stopping. With a flashlight I can see it's coming from the oil filter. Except I have it crunched down tight (have to use one of those things that fits on the filter like a cap) and it looks like it's coming right from the filter itself.
Any idea how to properly seal that filter to the console? The car is normally parked nose down, so it needs to always work.
Drip drip drip....
#2
Sure it's not power steering fluid? It looks awfully dark to be oil. And PS fluid has a habit of coating everything in that area anyway.
Also, the filter shouldn't be tightened more than hand tight. It may seem counter-intuitive but over tightening it can actually cause things to leak when they normally wouldn't.
Also, the filter shouldn't be tightened more than hand tight. It may seem counter-intuitive but over tightening it can actually cause things to leak when they normally wouldn't.
#3
Three Wheelin'
I agree you need to make sure that's the actual leak. You can wipe down the area with a rag until clean, then use a flashlight pointed at the area while the engine is running to determine if the oil is indeed coming from between the filter and the housing. If it appears while you are watching it, it's a sure sign.
If you can determine that that is the site of the leak, you should remove the filter and check the mating surface. You may have a little scratch / nick that is allowing oil to escape. In that case, you can get a better housing or you can polish the mating surface ... but you would have to do this very well because it needs to be perfectly flat. A short-term fix would be to use a tiny layer of an oil-resistant gasket material, like permatex ultra black.
Do the S models have the external oil cooler? If so, are you sure it's not one of the adjacent oil cooler hoses?
If you can determine that that is the site of the leak, you should remove the filter and check the mating surface. You may have a little scratch / nick that is allowing oil to escape. In that case, you can get a better housing or you can polish the mating surface ... but you would have to do this very well because it needs to be perfectly flat. A short-term fix would be to use a tiny layer of an oil-resistant gasket material, like permatex ultra black.
Do the S models have the external oil cooler? If so, are you sure it's not one of the adjacent oil cooler hoses?
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have wiped it down and I can see the oil coming down from there. It's annoying but not the end of the universe.
My guess is a little scratch or something, I could also take the filter off and put it on hand tight instead of gorilla tight.
The stock S models have the internal oil-water cooler, but not an external one. I think they put the external cooler on the S2 and later models.
It's not power steering fluid because that blew up about 20 years ago. I just took off the pulley and drained the system and drive it as manual steering. One of these days I need to get a round tuit and replace the rack. I also need to replace that swaybar bushing, the old one failed because it was soaked with oil........
Never dull.
My guess is a little scratch or something, I could also take the filter off and put it on hand tight instead of gorilla tight.
The stock S models have the internal oil-water cooler, but not an external one. I think they put the external cooler on the S2 and later models.
It's not power steering fluid because that blew up about 20 years ago. I just took off the pulley and drained the system and drive it as manual steering. One of these days I need to get a round tuit and replace the rack. I also need to replace that swaybar bushing, the old one failed because it was soaked with oil........
Never dull.
#5
Rennlist Member
Make sure you didn't put the new filter on with the old filter's rubber gasket still stuck to the manifold. Sounds basic, but I've seen this trick a few times. Smear the new seal with oil to keep it from sticking next change.
Check the aluminum mating surface of the manifold for scratches, nicks, etc. Clean with a single-edge razor, solvent, etc. If there are nicks, perhaps a careful filling with JB Weld will take care of them.
BTW, I learned years ago to torque the filter to spec this simple way. Spin it on until it just hits the manifold. Paint mark at 12 o'clock, then turn once, ie 360 degrees. It will be properly torqued. Cheers,
Check the aluminum mating surface of the manifold for scratches, nicks, etc. Clean with a single-edge razor, solvent, etc. If there are nicks, perhaps a careful filling with JB Weld will take care of them.
BTW, I learned years ago to torque the filter to spec this simple way. Spin it on until it just hits the manifold. Paint mark at 12 o'clock, then turn once, ie 360 degrees. It will be properly torqued. Cheers,
#6
Rennlist Member
#7
Drifting
Also check the camshaft seal. I had a similar leak that I thought for sure was the filter, but after taking off the covers it was clearly dripping down behind them.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Good point. When I get the car back I'll start by wiping everything down, then running it till oil drip, then checking to see if anything on top of the filter (maybe with a paper towel stuck up there).
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm starting to think it's the camshaft. There is a second drip up higher and regardless of the torque on the oil filler it's exactly the same amount of dripping. And it doesn't start until a few seconds after the car starts.
Guess it is time to replace the timing belt, while in there I can pull the gear and replace that seal. I assume it can be replaced without pulling the head?
Guess it is time to replace the timing belt, while in there I can pull the gear and replace that seal. I assume it can be replaced without pulling the head?
#10
Rennlist Member
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, time to buy the belt parts and do the old replacement...
I really should also fix the stupid odometer at some point; right now the little gear is broken so how would I know when to retension at 2500 miles (the balance shaft belt is so un-tensioned it's scary)
I really should also fix the stupid odometer at some point; right now the little gear is broken so how would I know when to retension at 2500 miles (the balance shaft belt is so un-tensioned it's scary)
#12
Three Wheelin'
Ok, time to buy the belt parts and do the old replacement...
I really should also fix the stupid odometer at some point; right now the little gear is broken so how would I know when to retension at 2500 miles (the balance shaft belt is so un-tensioned it's scary)
I really should also fix the stupid odometer at some point; right now the little gear is broken so how would I know when to retension at 2500 miles (the balance shaft belt is so un-tensioned it's scary)
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Been awhile, thought it was 2500. Still it's simple: Remove top cover, turn one bolt, turn bolt back, done. Do when engine is cold in morning.