FRporscheman

The first real mechanic job I ever did was the clutch on my mother's 944. (Damn, what a way to get into wrenching...)

That first time, it took me 6 months of off/on working on it and learning how to hold a wrench in my hand - I was 18. The second time, 2 years later on my own 944, I got it done in 6 days. Last time I did one was a couple of years ago on a turbo and I got it done in a day.

So nowadays I would not consider giving it to a mechanic since I've gotten pretty good at doing it. But I think $2200 is in the ballpark (maybe on the high end).

I vote you do it yourself. It sounds like you're capable enough to get through it. You might need a couple of new tools, so that's a bonus!

ditto. Or even worse, corroded parts on a GM (or any parts on a GM, TBH).

tc944

Emefef

I did mine last Father's Day weekend. I'm a bit claustrophobic, and I was working in the driveway so I looked at different types of ramps people had built. There are some really ingenious designs out there! In the end, I ended up constructing cribbing out of 2x6 planks and 4x4 posts. 12 little 16" square pallets. It took a while to jack it up, but with 3 of those under each wheel I had plenty of height and unobstructed access to work.
Lots of great tips here already - like pb blaster. I took a little longer because I wanted to clean things as well. I made new exhaust hangers, for example. One thing to think of in advance is how you're going to lower and raise the transmission. It can be done with jacks and a dolly, but it's tricky for one person. Somewhere during that process I knocked the fuel hose of the full tank, getting a pretty forceful stream of gas into my chest and lap before I got a finger stuck in the dyke.
It's probably the biggest - as in the amount of time and the number of significant steps - job I've done on a car, and I can certainly say it was the most gratifying.
Another thing to consider - I did mine in the summer, then during this winter when it was so cold (-25C) the hydraulics failed. I don't know if was the master or slave, but I replaced them both. That's something you may want to consider while you've already got it up, if your hydraulics are 30 years old too.

Otto Mechanic

About PB Blaster: very good stuff but pricey. A better solution (pun intended) is to get a cheap spray bottle and fill it with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Works better than PB blaster and you can make it for pennies a gallon.

Dan Martinic

Otto Mechanic

Second the transmission jack. I got mine from Harbor Freight, about $200 delivered, but it's tall and meant for use under a lift. There are short versions that you can use with jack stands. I did also use an engine brace ($80, Harbor Freight ) but you can use a piece of 3/4" plywood (1'x2') and a jack under the oil pan to support the engine also. I just didn't like the risk here in earthquake country.

When setting the drive shaft in the rear main seal/pilot bearing, you'll likely need a jack under the engine to do fine adjustments to the entry angle anyway. I have a rolling jack on the 4 post I used for that purpose.

Dan Martinic

Oh I know! I had some serious rusted fasteners. Many salty winters up here. I basically had to cut & drill everything. Interesting enough, the wastegate came apart nicely with a torch. Well, maybe "nicely" isn't the best word.. but heating, cooling, heating, cooling... then finally turning worked. I had to take it to work though and use the big acetylene tank. I find these silly sprays don't do much; if it's stuck, heat is good--usually my little propane pencil torch works. Otherwise, a longer handle.

You guys are lucky down there: this $99 cheapo would suffice: https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html

Since I was working during the winter, I must have got a holiday special; I managed this one for $140 CAD (half price):



It's overkill, really. That HF hundred-dollar special is just fine and takes up way less room in the shed afterwards

As for engine support, a couple of videos I referenced didn't show one, and I have to report that I didn't use any such thing. It appears the 951 motor is perfectly balanced on its two crossmember mounts. Sliding the torque tube in was easy; I used the plastic alignment tool on the clutch first. Can't remember if the engine had a bit of play on its mounts.. don't think it was needed.

Otto Mechanic

That's the one I was talking about. Since I had the lift I needed the tall one but for jack stands that should be perfect.

Regards,

Ashman

Thanks to everyone for the responses.

A lot to consider here.

I appreciate everyone relaying their experience with this process.

curtisr

I can't imagine a more detailed series of how-to videos for changing the clutch than what edredas offers on youtube. In particular, his inclusion of what tools to use and where makes this my go-to source of help.

Dan Martinic

bkrantz

I did it many years ago on jack stands, over (I think) a long weekend. Like others have said, not really hard (unless some fasteners are stuck) but lots of steps. Fond (sort of) memories.

curtisr

Totally agree.

russmw

I changed the clutch on my 924 last year on the garage floor with just trolley jacks and standard home tools. Taking it steady and in a logical manner the jobs not to bad (I know the 944 has additional hydraulic components over the 924) and my biggest concern regarding dropping the gearbox wasn't anywhere as bad as I though it would be. I did the job in about 14 hours over a week and really quite rewarding.

I kept a rough diary of the work here https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=1006375

Good luck

KL0699

Thanks for starting this thread, Ashman, as I am about to start the same project. Great forum with lots of good-natured help. Well, it's been a couple of months now. Have you finished the job yet?