Brian McCoy

Funny, it took my 5'2", 120lb fiance about 3 hours. She did drop the bike (an MSF loaner 250), but that's because she can only tip-toe the thing.

That's an ADVANCED skill.. you SHOULD be learning about covering the brakes and clutch, keeping the bike in gear when stopped, always watching your mirrors when stopped (and be pointed towards an exit lane). You should be learning about SIPDE, and having positive reenforcement from educated riders. Getting arround a corner is a Very small and simple task compaired to all the other, MUCH more important things a new rider should be thinking about.

The reason people drop bikes is because they get in over their heads. Pulling the clutch can have end results as bad as nailing the throttle/brakes ~ trust me on this I've tossed myself off a bike at the track because I freaked and decided to do just what you did. It changed the additude of the bike (front forks rebounded some) and I ran out of clearance, ran out of road and end up surfing the ground.

Riding is about a skill set - you only have so much mental power to perform the given skills before you run out of time. For the advanced rider, the simple tasks (throttle modulation, covering the controls, proper body position) have been commited to automatic control, leaving more ability to watch the road and keep the thing on 2 wheels... usually at a faster speed. The novice rider has to think about more things, has less experience doing all the tasks and if they're on a high-powered sportbike, it can be a simple overload. If you've paniced and don't know Exactly what's happening then you've been overloaded.

This is all just opinion though. Yes, people manage to learn to ride on hyper sportsbikes, liter bikes (I started on an ex-roadrace Honda CB1100f), etc... but the statistics show that far more of these types of riders end up crashing and quitting. Or crashing without the proper gear/insurance and loosing a LOT of money.

All the stuff you hear about bikes (comfort especially) is highly subjective. I know people who do long distance touring on R1s and think they're perfectly comfortable. I know that the right rider on a Harley will still outrun more sportbike riders on the street (I've done it). There aren't really Any quality differences between any of the bike brands (the Ducati I've babysat leaked more oil than the Harley, the Yamaha dirtbike was the least reliable of any of my bikes, etc..) Shoot, Kawasaki and Suzuki are now sharing development costs and parts.. there's even been talk of full on bike designs changing names between the 2. So take all talk of this stuff with a grain of salt (or a whole damn tub, depending on who's talking).

FWIW, I just want to qualify myself to talk about motorcycles. I've been riding since 1993, have over 100k miles under my belt in that time. I spent 7 years of those 11 without a car. I've roadraced for 3 years and run a team for 4. I took a year off to go through a motorcycle mechanics school and am factory certified with Harley Davidson, Suzuki and Yamaha. I've worked for a suspension company as their lead tech, working with top level AMA privater teams down through to the average street rider. Motorcycles have been my passion for awhile now and I take a lot of interest in trying to make sure those who want to start riding have all the best opportunities/information that I never had.

josephsc

That's my point -- the CA DMV tests you on low-speed agility (eg, making the perfect tight circle) -- not street-driving ability, which is what MSF tests are based on (eg cornering, emergency braking, and swerving). I think it's silly because it is a different skill set, and only slightly correlated. Doing the DMV test on a sport bike is like asking a hockey player to do a pirouette -- it would be much easier if you're smaller.

Peckster

You won't be able to use the performance of the R6 for at least a year or two. Get the one that feels better and trade up later. Bikes tend to hold their value very well. I sold my F2 four years after new for only $1,000 less than what I paid.

ahofam123

Wow, I was just looking at GA's msf site and found that they had raised their rates to $250. http://www.gadmvs.com/training/gmsp My brother took their course for $50 a couple of years ago, and as of last year their website still listed it at $50. Does anyone know when Georgia raised their rates or of any cheaper alternatives?

v944god

Well I was planning on doing the same thing, buy a smaller bike, than move on up, but it would have been a total waste of money. I agree the MSF test should be a pre-requisite to driving a bike. Great thing about the course is you take the course, pass, automatically get your license without having to go through the driving test. These bikes are monsters, and yes it takes some skill to ride it, but it really depends on the person. The R6 fit me like a glove, but this bike is alot easier to make mistakes with. The R6 gets very uncomfortable after a couple hours of driving, your *** is killing you, and your wrists are in pain from the location of the clutch and gas, but it's sooo worth it. These bikes are so great to beat on. You can tear the thing up and it wont hesitate for a moment. Just blip the throttle, and you'll screaming through that powerband . It's all about the rush..

Brian McCoy

GA went to $250 for this year (might have been late last season, but I don't think so). And for the often 8 month waiting peroid, it';s just smarter to do the $250 Harley training course (they use Buell Blasts.. which are fun to crank on when they aren't yours.. heh). But there's usually no waiting peroid for that course... not sure if they have the same DMV deal as the MSF... I know insurance companies see the 2 as the same.

v944god, I can understand your *** hurting, but wrists? Get the bike on a racestand and get into riding position. With a friends help, loosen the controls and adjust them so they're straight out for an easy grab when you're riding. You'll probably want to adjust the shifter slightly too so that's an easy reach. And if your wrists are still hurting, you need to work on better riding posture ~ you should be able to let go of the bars completely without altering your position. This is Essential for quick riding, a looser grip on the bars is well rewarded (on all motorcycles) by an overall better control. Plus, your butt will get used to the pressure (try using non-cotton materials next to your butt - I use spandex riding shorts when I'm going for the bun-burning 1000 mile days... cotton is abrasive and causes unnecessary pain).

What happened to Mike? (the guy who started the tread)... haven't heard anything from him since the first question.

tomc_85.5_944

Probably out riding his new Busa....LOL
Ditto with most of the above, most of the good points have been covered, so I'll remain quiet.

User 462021

I'm more than happy with my Katana.

Mike1982

Hey everybody, sorry I was gone for so long. Had the g/f come into town for the weekend plus work I haven't had time to read up. Here is what I am looking at, I am 21 with over 5 years of experience of riding a motorcycle, so I feel fine buying a high powered bike but this is what I am looking at. I don't ever plan on racing, looking for some comfort in the ride, want some power but won't give up the comfort of the ride for it. When I went up to look at some bike, I sat on both a R6 and zyf (whatever it is called) and like the the other one better, zyf. The R6 is more of a machine to handle on the track it feels like then the other one. Plus, with the price being cheaper over all, insurance and buying, it sounds like a better option for me. Is anyone looking at selling one that I am looking for? If so, let me know because I am looking in the next few months for sure and if the price is right I could swing it MUCH sooner. Thanks EVERYONE for all the insight.


Mike

streckfu's

Go for the YZF before the R6. It's far more bike than you will be anytime soon and you'll enjoy the the fact it far more comfortable.

I second the riding course before you buy.

Brian McCoy

Well, then look at these bikes (cycletrader.com is a great resource):

Yamaha YZF 600 (1997+ are all the same)
Yamaha YZF 1000 (1997 only)
Yamaha FZR1000/750/600 ~ you'll want to sit on one, but they'll probably fit you fine if you like the YZF
Yamaha SecaII (xj600, might be a little tamer than you want)

Triumph Sprint RS (or pretty much anything shy of the 955i)

Suzuki RF600/900
Suzuki Katana 600/750
Suzuki SV650/1000
Suzuki Bandit 600/1200

Kawasaki ZX6d/e (anything but R)
Kawasaki ZRX11/12

Honda VFR 400/700/750 (I have one of these for sale, see my sig)
Honda CBR600 F/F2/F3/F4
Honda CBR1000
Honda NT-650/Hawk

Ducati 900 (any iteration from '93 up)]
Ducati Monster (any)

If you want to see what each of these bikes looks like, or any other bike you come across on your search, hit up http://www.bikepics.com/ You can find some of these bikes for under $1000 (easy) right now, and some will run over $10k brand new. Here are a few picks I think are worth looking into:

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/2/4/64049324.htm

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/8/0/56383980.htm

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/7/6/64433076.htm

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/5/4/63682554.htm

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/1/4/64926414.htm - YZF

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/3/6/64519336.htm

http://adcache.cycletrader.com/5/6/8/64113068.htm

http://www.cycletrader.com/caddetail...4/59562364.htm

And there were a LOT of 'slight cosmetic damage' type bikes, not sure if you're into a project or just want something to jump on and ride. Good luck looking!

Mike1982

WOW, thanks Brian McCoy for all the info. You say that I can find one for under $1,000 easy? I would like to get a '96 or newer for about $3,000 or less. If you can find a good for me, let me know. I live up here in Akron, OH so distance is a big part. See ya.

MM951

Brian is a motorcycle guru..thanks for posting, helped me again!

Brian McCoy

Don't worry to much about distance, you can ship a motorcycle anywhere in the country through Forward Air for about $300 (one requirement is the bike has to be delivered to and picked up from a major airport - but they provide a metal crate to tie the bike down in). All those links are using an Akron, OH zip code... so they should be close to you (I searched within 100 miles).

For $3k, the very first link looks to be the best deal (the one I'd look into personally). Also check ebay often... browse local ads and check them out in person. Often times you can make someone an offer on the spot and get the bike, and if not bikes almost never sell for full value on ebay (just like all other vehicles). You also have www.kbb.com and www.nadaguides.com for price checking (they're not always realistic of real world prices).

You mentioned $3k... that's what I'm looking to get for my VFR. I can guarentee the bike's in perfect condition and ready to go till you get tired of it with only the most basic of service.

Mike1982

Your bike is VERY nice, but it is a little older style then I like.