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The solid state relays sound interesting but no one knows yet if they will stand the test of time. I've run the 993 part from a non-URO supplier for years and years in several different cars w/o problems. I think the ones I have used have mostly been Stribel. $30 from Amazon. URO claims their updated DME relay is good, seems like the early version not so much. It's about half the price.
I'd probably get the $30 Stribel and figure it to outlast the chassis. I think the solid state ones cost a bit more and I do not think I'd notice any difference.
The solid state relays sound interesting but no one knows yet if they will stand the test of time. I've run the 993 part from a non-URO supplier for years and years in several different cars w/o problems. I think the ones I have used have mostly been Stribel. $30 from Amazon. URO claims their updated DME relay is good, seems like the early version not so much. It's about half the price.
I'd probably get the $30 Stribel and figure it to outlast the chassis. I think the solid state ones cost a bit more and I do not think I'd notice any difference.
I've had the solid state one for couple years I'd say, for what that's worth. No issues yet. But I tend to agree the mere fact that it's solid state doesn't mean it will necessarily last longer than an old fashion relay.
On the way home today, car died numerous times. Getting tired of it, I pulled over and put in the jumper. Fired right up... then about two miles down the road, dies again! This time, right in front of a bus stop chock full of dudes waiting for a ride.
Playing it cool, I put on the hazzards, popped the hood, got out, and took the cover off the fuse/relay box. I pulled the jumper then put it back, jiggling it a bit and pushing it securely. I after a few seconds of this, I heard the fuel area making noise, grabbed the box cover, shut the hood, got in, fired it up, and took off confidently. Must of looked like I knew something lol
No further incidents. Perhaps the box cover was to blame, being that my jumper is too tall (Note to self: shorten jumper)
Or, maybe it is the FP after all?
Often before stalling, it hesitated numerous times, long stretches of heavy hesitation esp. when giving more throttle. I can't see the relay cutting in & out with such frequency, but who knows.
Here's the current relay, looking pretty original with its brown 80s base
I don't see anything wrong with the contacts or the solder. Then I put it on its side and take more pictures. The lens appears to see something:
My magnifying glasss confirms these lines, though I have no idea if they are actually a problem. Is this what the famous "cold-solder" joints look like? Sortof like cracks I guess.
Can't say I'm convinced this relay is bad, but the next few days should bring the new one and some more answers. Tomorrow, I might put the jumper back and see if it dies again. That, or re-solder the relay and try it back in; it's prescribed in Clark's so maybe a good bet
Not so well done I'm afraid. On my way in today, I felt a hiccup. Knowing what's coming, and since I was running kinda late, with traffic heavy and icy rain falling, I pulled into a mall lot and subbed in the jumper. The rest of the ride was without incident, though it had this uneasy feeling at every idle. Ok, the feeling could have been all mine lol
I'll run the jumper on the way home and see if it dies.
I repaired an early pre-993 one once and it still acted up from time to time. I was pretty curious as to what the issue was, but I just tossed it in the naughty bin and the updated part has worked flawlessly since.
When my S2 failed to fire I swapped in my spare and all was well. Took the old one apart and immediately spotted a bad joint, however on my cruise control unit I had use a jeweler's loupe to spot the bad solder joint. It had a crack that was all but invisible to the naked eye, at to least mine
Just got home on the jumper and bad news: it died on me once one the way. The wet from this morning had passed and it's dry as a bone out. Interestingly enough, it fired up on the first crank; usually, it takes two or three (or more). It was just the one stall--at speed--but nonetheless, with the jumper in, I'm pretty sure I can rule out the DME relay.
There are two events that occurred just before this stalling situation of late:
1. I cleaned the AFM, bending the contact. Overall, it's been running better since. The stalling started a couple weeks after. I did seal it with regular silicone so I wonder if it's had an effect corroding some contact in there
2. I pulled my original airbag steering wheel and installed a temporary one (a beat-up stock non-airbag sport wheel with the M018 extension). To remove the nut, I tried the steering lock as a hold; it "moved" a bit. Now, I can lock the SW and shift the ignition up and down about 1/2 inch. I'm not sure if I've damaged the ignition switch in some way or just made a little play in whatever locks the SW (I have no idea what this area looks like)
Unless someone feels I should check either 1 or 2 above, I'm gonna order that FP
I changed the fuel filter fairly recently.. early summer. While diagnosing a no-start in the spring, I performed a flow test of sorts: I powered the system and directed the fuel flow into a bucket. It flowed pretty strong, but obviously I didn't measure exactly how much /min.
FYI this FP is about seven or eight years old, installed by a mechanic back then.
Not having a proper adapter for the rail, I have never done a pressure test. At lunch today, I did order a fuel rail end cap from Porsche that I'll pick up on Thursday and turn into an adapter by drilling / tapping and installing a fitting as per Clark's suggestion. I should have fuel pressure testing results by the weekend.
The only thing that holds me back from ordering a new FP is the fact that I've never had one intermittently cut out on me either this car or any other; they have always just died and stayed dead--usually on the side of a fast-moving highway
11-16-2018 | 09:50 PM
