16V Reliablility
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I read in another post the 16V engines have reliability problems. Is this true? My plan is to find a 16V 944. Or should I go with a Turbo. Which has the better reliability a 16V or a Turbo? Or is there an issue with ether one?
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I have a 944S2 that I regularly flog on the track. 138k miles. Two seasons ago, the H2O pump broke while I was on the track. (Impeller spun off the rod) I drove the car home the 4 hours without overheating or causing any damage to my engine.
The secret to the 16v being a reliably engine is to properly (read: religously) maintain it. There are more things that can go wrong or break (twice the valves, dual overhead cam; cam chain guide/tensioner) but if one keeps on top of the maintenance, the 16v motor can be a very reliable and enjoyable motor to play with!
Of course, YMMV,
-Z-man.
The secret to the 16v being a reliably engine is to properly (read: religously) maintain it. There are more things that can go wrong or break (twice the valves, dual overhead cam; cam chain guide/tensioner) but if one keeps on top of the maintenance, the 16v motor can be a very reliable and enjoyable motor to play with!
Of course, YMMV,
-Z-man.
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Is it just me or does this EXACT topic show up every 2-3 months?
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Just take the cars history into account before you buy. Any high performance car of this age has to be meticulously maintained. As Z-man says, twice as many cams and valves just means more to go wrong. I wouldn't hold that against the S or S2 though....
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the timing belt has more inertia to deal with on the 16V, but as with any turbocharged car, there's a lot of heat and more things that could go wrong. that being said, i'd gladly own either car.
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Originally posted by ljd-924SC
the timing belt has more inertia to deal with on the 16V, but as with any turbocharged car, there's a lot of heat and more things that could go wrong. that being said, i'd gladly own either car.
the timing belt has more inertia to deal with on the 16V, but as with any turbocharged car, there's a lot of heat and more things that could go wrong. that being said, i'd gladly own either car.
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Hey;
In normal driving, the S and S2 are virtually no different than any other NA in terms of reliability, with the exception of paying some attention to the valve drive mechanism.
If you run an S/S2 hard (TRACK), there are more issues with valve drive and head. The valve drive is not fragile, but you must be extra vigilant. The worst thing is these cars have been known to crack their heads. It is not what I would call "common," but it does happen. It can usually be solved by having the head welded.
In normal driving, the S and S2 are virtually no different than any other NA in terms of reliability, with the exception of paying some attention to the valve drive mechanism.
If you run an S/S2 hard (TRACK), there are more issues with valve drive and head. The valve drive is not fragile, but you must be extra vigilant. The worst thing is these cars have been known to crack their heads. It is not what I would call "common," but it does happen. It can usually be solved by having the head welded.
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the heads grenade themselves when the belt breaks. this happens on all three models. maintenance, and getting replacement parts that are not defective is the secret. you are getting a lot of power out of a small motor so you have to keep on top of things.
try a search on cam chain tensioner pad for a lot of discussions on this.
try a search on cam chain tensioner pad for a lot of discussions on this.
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Originally posted by RedlineMan
Hey;
In normal driving, the S and S2 are virtually no different than any other NA in terms of reliability, with the exception of paying some attention to the valve drive mechanism.
If you run an S/S2 hard (TRACK), there are more issues with valve drive and head. The valve drive is not fragile, but you must be extra vigilant. The worst thing is these cars have been known to crack their heads. It is not what I would call "common," but it does happen. It can usually be solved by having the head welded.
Hey;
In normal driving, the S and S2 are virtually no different than any other NA in terms of reliability, with the exception of paying some attention to the valve drive mechanism.
If you run an S/S2 hard (TRACK), there are more issues with valve drive and head. The valve drive is not fragile, but you must be extra vigilant. The worst thing is these cars have been known to crack their heads. It is not what I would call "common," but it does happen. It can usually be solved by having the head welded.
Been there, done that, didn't hold. You CAN'T weld these heads, they WILL NOT HOLD.
If you want to prove me wrong, I have a cracked head here for you to try.... like I said. Good Luck!
Result - new porsche head.
There are three generations of heads, the first and second generations had problems with cracking and porosity, the third generation they finally get it right.
Dal.
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I think they are all pretty much equal if you take care of them.
Ignore the maintenance and then yes, the 16V will cost you more. But that your own damn fault, not the car's fault.
Ignore the maintenance and then yes, the 16V will cost you more. But that your own damn fault, not the car's fault.
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Originally posted by Dal Heger
There are three generations of heads, the first and second generations had problems with cracking and porosity, the third generation they finally get it right.
There are three generations of heads, the first and second generations had problems with cracking and porosity, the third generation they finally get it right.