Redid clutch recently - adjusted speed and reference sensors. Sensor B (TDC Ref?) is at 2vpp (With a scope).. Sensor D was never quite that high, however, car starts and idles as it did prior to the clutch job.
However, once I hit 3000RPM+, the tach starts to jump around. +/-500 to 700 RPM and bounces like mad.

Faulty sensor? Possibly because the reference sensor is bouncing.. ? or because there's a vacuum leak due to me leaning on things??
Any ideas? Need a video for a better description? Any suggestions are appreciated.

EDIT: Moving the reference sensors around a bit seemed to settle it down a bit, but it's still kinda crazy. Added a video, here:
The first 5-15 seconds of idle were as they were before the change. After revving it, you can see the bounce.
Also: HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING, not just idle.

 

Did you clean the bell housing ground points? Maybe a floating ground?

 

Just redid the one of the beige/peach colored ground on the block with 220 grit and clamped it down really well.
Ran the tach up to 5k , drove around the block to get the heat up - seems perfect. No more bouncy tach. Clutch job finally complete.

(Lessons learned: you technically don't need a one piece sensor reference bracket... wouldn't advise it though.)

On the test drive, the passenger window switch decided to break in the 'down' position. Looks like fuse blew and I can't control any of the windows now.. a new item for the to-do list.
I owe you a beer if I'm ever out west or you ever head up to Michigan.

 

Good to know that part's finished and you've moved on to the next logical step; the window switches

I've just about completed that step myself and can rent you a clue on that courtesy of PaulD on this list, who gave me the instructions for repairing faulty window switches on the car. There's also a YouTube video that doesn't go into as much detail as the write up, you can find it here:


and then there are Paul's instructions (thanks again Paul, hopefully you'll read this and take a bow):

NOTE: PLACE A LARGE PLASTIC TRAY (12 X 18) UNDER YOUR WORK AREA. VERY SMALL PARTS ARE PRESENT.

I take them apart by separating the two pins at the top from the plastic rocker part you push on with your finger to operate the switch. I use an 1/8" fine blade screwdriver to do this, or a Harbor Freight orange handled pick. It's the two plastic "nubs" or pins the rocker rocks on; just separate the side of the rocker from the nub(s).

Almost any kind of grease is suitable. You'll see the original grease inside which usually gets hardened. I think I have used wheel bearing (non-fibrous) grease works OK. Use a dab about 2-3mm diameter and spread it out on the track that the little ball bearing follows. No grease on the contacts, just leave them dry. If the contact is badly eroded, you may clean it with a couple of swipes of emery or 400-600 grit sandpaper, but lightly. I usually don't.

The plastic rocker (the part you push with your finger) has two pegs going towards the electrical contact arms. Inside the pegs are tiny copper or brass ball bearings (1-1.5mm) with SPRINGS. They will pop out run away from you as soon as you open the switch up (apparently they are afraid of light) and that's why you want a big tray under your work to catch them. When re-assembling, I use a dab of grease to hold them in the pegs.

Hold the switches face up when disassembling and re-assembling.

That's about all that I can tell you. Sounds mysterious until you have done one then you'll be an expert. This process applies to all of the rocker/toggle switches in the car, they are all made the same way.

 

PS: I used dielectric grease when I re-built my switches. It may not make a difference but it's what I use on all electrical components to protect them from corrosion. You can find it at most big auto parts stores, Lowes carries it, if you have a Radio Shack in the area they'll probably have it. If you're using a fresh tube, be sure to squeeze out any clear oil that's separated at the top, then apply the metal impregnated grease to the contacts.

 

BTW: I found the trouble with my switch was that one of the small ball bearings mentioned in Paul's write up had come out of its spring loaded pin and was rolling around inside the switch body making random contact with the different pins, shorting the switch and blowing the power window fuse, which I think is #4 (30 amp).

I've heard this is a common failure mode for these switches, so be on the lookout for a tiny ball bearing loose in the switch case when you open it up.