FS: Used Koni Double Adjustable F/R Coilover Shocks for 944, Great Deal
#16
Race Car
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Considering these 3012s are probably $750 ea new, it's a fair price for the package, and he didn't say "firm".
The rebound control on the 3012 is so good, if you have them set wrong (for road racing) they can actually jack the car down over consecutive bumps.
In other words, you can set the rebound so stiff that the shock still has not rebounded fully by the time you hit the next bump moment.
This causes a "jacking" effect where the car's rear becomes lower and lower until you hit a smooth section.
That's at the higher end of range and they are fully capable of being set correctly for road racing but if you are doing small jumps in rally cross, I would imagine this ability could be beneficial.
T
#17
Race Car
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Hi T,
It has the crossed-drilled rod journals on the crankshaft, the 951 oil pan, the trap door in the oil pan sump, the oil ring around the screen of the oil pick up, and the oil return line is V-12notched at the outlet 180 from ring to allow air entrained to release from return engine oil. The journal bearings are coated.
I am building a new engine. Had Michael Mount machine rods for standard racing Clevite rod bearings.
It has the crossed-drilled rod journals on the crankshaft, the 951 oil pan, the trap door in the oil pan sump, the oil ring around the screen of the oil pick up, and the oil return line is V-12notched at the outlet 180 from ring to allow air entrained to release from return engine oil. The journal bearings are coated.
I am building a new engine. Had Michael Mount machine rods for standard racing Clevite rod bearings.
The MM rod bearing mod, IMO is a must have any time you have an engine disassembled enough to get this done.
The shells are way harder than the factory Glyco and the narrower width is a double ++ too.
Those oil mods you listed are already well known and I utilize them all with the exception of the cross drilled journals.
There are other precautions you can take but we could go to PM on that because I can get a little "long winded"....
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
T
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Ok, cool.
The MM rod bearing mod, IMO is a must have any time you have an engine disassembled enough to get this done.
The shells are way harder than the factory Glyco and the narrower width is a double ++ too.
Those oil mods you listed are already well known and I utilize them all with the exception of the cross drilled journals.
There are other precautions you can take but we could go to PM on that because I can get a little "long winded"....![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
T
The MM rod bearing mod, IMO is a must have any time you have an engine disassembled enough to get this done.
The shells are way harder than the factory Glyco and the narrower width is a double ++ too.
Those oil mods you listed are already well known and I utilize them all with the exception of the cross drilled journals.
There are other precautions you can take but we could go to PM on that because I can get a little "long winded"....
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
T
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bump, this Koni combo with front struts full threaded adjustable is a real deal and the best deal. Why wait. I worked for professional race teams. If you desire to improve your lap times, this Koni front and rear combo shocks is your best cost-effective purchase until the driver makes a "C" change in its performance. All steps are improvement and it is cost-effective for this option before spending 2X to 3X more . If you are not able to make it to the pinnacle , this saves you mega-bucks.
I have been there and know this is a good package
I have been there and know this is a good package