Weird LJET fuel delivery issue!
07-27-2018, 07:20 PM
#61
Burning Brakes
They would be puffs of mist. If they spray more than that or squirt fuel like a spray bottle on the stream setting then you have a problem that could be in your DME. Check all of the injectors individually. If it's in the DME then all of the injectors would fire the same way, but if it's an individual injector problem there could be more than 1 causing the issue.
07-27-2018, 11:30 PM
#62
Okay everyone great news car started right up and ran great. For about 10 minutes lol. I have some videos I’m going to upload to YouTube and then post the link here so you can all hear and see what’s happening. Drove it down the end of my street and it was very VERY down on power. Oil doesn’t smell like gas anymore but still puzzled. No more black smoke either by the way. Developed a missfire and eventually died. Was trying to idle normally but for whatever reason she just couldn’t. Going to try the idea of pulling the rail and checking injector spray next. Should make a video of that too. More fresh oil on the pan below as well.
07-28-2018, 01:23 PM
#66
Drifting
In your second video, the mpg gauge reads 40mpg at idle and pretty far off its end. This is also a vacuum gauge. I don't know where on that scale the vacuum numbers would fall, or if it's normal to be at that position for an older NA at idle, but on my turbo, when I'm idling, I'm showing close to the end of the gauge and that happens to correspond to about 17 in -hg:
Maybe someone can confirm what a good running older NA shows on that dash gauge. If my hunch is correct, you've got pretty low vacuum at idle, meaning a significant enough leak.
And a pretty bad oil leak.
When was the last time this head was removed and serviced incl. head gasket?
Maybe someone can confirm what a good running older NA shows on that dash gauge. If my hunch is correct, you've got pretty low vacuum at idle, meaning a significant enough leak.
And a pretty bad oil leak.
When was the last time this head was removed and serviced incl. head gasket?
07-28-2018, 02:19 PM
#67
AFIK and I’ll go through my service records one more time, every major gasket is original to the car. It has always had some oil leaks due to this. RMS, Headgasket, oil pan gasket, intake and exhaust are all original to the car. I have a set ready to go on. Again part of why I’m seriously thinking about getting the whole top end serviced. I want to try and figure this out so I’m not wasting labor hour money on diag.
That said I have never had oil come out of my car like that so maybe some seal did just Burst or something. I hope not.
Interesting about the MPG gauge I had no idea it was a vacuum gauge as well. When the car has its fits it’s pegged at or below 20. Although since replacing the FPR it was actually a little higher.
Not sure what my next move from here should be, I’m thinking to just order the AOS seals, bulk vacuum hose from Lindsey and whatever vacuum fittings I need to replace the hoses on the car now as most of them are original too.
That said I have never had oil come out of my car like that so maybe some seal did just Burst or something. I hope not.
Interesting about the MPG gauge I had no idea it was a vacuum gauge as well. When the car has its fits it’s pegged at or below 20. Although since replacing the FPR it was actually a little higher.
Not sure what my next move from here should be, I’m thinking to just order the AOS seals, bulk vacuum hose from Lindsey and whatever vacuum fittings I need to replace the hoses on the car now as most of them are original too.
07-28-2018, 02:51 PM
#68
Drifting
The mpg gauge on your car reads maximum vacuum towards the right side (60) and minimum vacuum at the left end (20 and less).
During the "fits", either the throttle is opening, air is bring forced in, or there's a massive vacuum leak. When you press the gas, there's less vacuum, as you're pumping air in vs engine sucking it.
Frankly, if everything's original to the engine seal-wise, I would imagine your next move is (at minimum) remove the head. Not that crazy of a job; I just did it first time. Not bad at all. It fixed my emissions test results, and I had no real indication of any head gasket failure.
But with a leaking RMS, might as well pull the motor.
This past year, I changed AOS seals, clutch, oil thermostat housing seals, head gasket, and a bunch of little parts incl. coolant sensor, ignition, etc. There's still a little cold-start hesitation issue and I'm not 100% on its performance. I wish I had just pulled the engine and finished the job right.
Pretty sure I'll be doing that in the near future anyway. These cars are way past their paper/rubber sealing lifespan... nevermind bearings / rings
During the "fits", either the throttle is opening, air is bring forced in, or there's a massive vacuum leak. When you press the gas, there's less vacuum, as you're pumping air in vs engine sucking it.
Frankly, if everything's original to the engine seal-wise, I would imagine your next move is (at minimum) remove the head. Not that crazy of a job; I just did it first time. Not bad at all. It fixed my emissions test results, and I had no real indication of any head gasket failure.
But with a leaking RMS, might as well pull the motor.
This past year, I changed AOS seals, clutch, oil thermostat housing seals, head gasket, and a bunch of little parts incl. coolant sensor, ignition, etc. There's still a little cold-start hesitation issue and I'm not 100% on its performance. I wish I had just pulled the engine and finished the job right.
Pretty sure I'll be doing that in the near future anyway. These cars are way past their paper/rubber sealing lifespan... nevermind bearings / rings
07-28-2018, 03:10 PM
#69
That’s what I was thinking too. I’m not really afraid of pulling the head off but I would just rather have the head done, machined, and WIIT belts, rollers, water pump, thermostat, oil cooler seals. Most of it is all overlapping anyways. I don’t have the time or the space to pull the motor and go to town. Plus valve guides and lapping and options to bore and get the walls scored is all there all at one shot so that’s why I’m partial to having tim take it from that point.
From what your telling me the most prevelant issue that’s likely to be causing these things is a vacuum leak. Again the oil in the air box did not start happening until this issue showed up. I was thinking it was either FPR, AOS, or DME thinking one thing would need to be fixed which was my mistake. Several small problems are adding up to one big one. Once the car is consistently running and driving again then I can really take the time to plan out a top end refresh.
Thanks for all the help Dan!
I know Lindsey makes a hose kit for the turbos but is there anything along those lines for an NA?
From what your telling me the most prevelant issue that’s likely to be causing these things is a vacuum leak. Again the oil in the air box did not start happening until this issue showed up. I was thinking it was either FPR, AOS, or DME thinking one thing would need to be fixed which was my mistake. Several small problems are adding up to one big one. Once the car is consistently running and driving again then I can really take the time to plan out a top end refresh.
Thanks for all the help Dan!
I know Lindsey makes a hose kit for the turbos but is there anything along those lines for an NA?
07-28-2018, 03:40 PM
#70
Drifting
Actually, I don’t think the big issues you are having are what is typically referred to as ‘vacuum leaks’: I can pull off a couple of thos small lines while running and nothing really changes.
I changed most of my hoses, did a pressure test, and I still failed emissions badly. It wasn’t till I changed the HG that I passed.
First, confirm what healthy older NAs read at idle. My guess is closer to 60, but I could be wrong.
IF you are in fact showing very poor vacuum, continue investigating that—but deep down, I have a feeling your issue isn’t on top of your engine; it’s inside, either at the head or further down.
I hope I’m wrong!
I changed most of my hoses, did a pressure test, and I still failed emissions badly. It wasn’t till I changed the HG that I passed.
First, confirm what healthy older NAs read at idle. My guess is closer to 60, but I could be wrong.
IF you are in fact showing very poor vacuum, continue investigating that—but deep down, I have a feeling your issue isn’t on top of your engine; it’s inside, either at the head or further down.
I hope I’m wrong!
07-28-2018, 04:30 PM
#72
Drifting
For a second there, the “vacuum” reading from your mpg gauge looked good.
Battery sounds weak though. Maybe your electrical system is wonky due to low volts / alternator issue
Battery sounds weak though. Maybe your electrical system is wonky due to low volts / alternator issue
07-28-2018, 04:38 PM
#73
A few months ago when the car was running I unplugged the battery to see if the car died indicating a bad alternator. Car kept running so I figured that it checks out. AAA also tested it for me they said it was alright as well.
07-28-2018, 08:19 PM
#74
Just ordered AOS seals, injector reseal kit, intake mani gaskets, and now I'm going to disassemble and replace every single vacuum line. I want to eliminate them as factors. plus piece of mind.
Tried starting the car to pull it into the driveway. nada. Put another gallon of gas and jumped it. fired right up. no hesitation, no idle bounce, no misfire, no nothing. once in the garage and after letting it run for 15 or so minutes to charge up on its own, i turned every single light and accessory on. turned on the radio and AC. No dip in rpm no change in idle characteristics. So i decided to just let it run and see what happens. Not a damn thing. the car ran so smoothly i actually couldn't help but smile. after 30 mins i gave up. no mishaps at all. i shut it down. i restarted it twice to see what would happen started right up both times. idle dead on 900. 20 minutes later nothing. car just cranks. no new oil on the ground. no change in oil level on the stick. its right at the half mark.
No matter how hard i try i can't smell any gas. the oil is totally clean, the exhaust is not sweet or moist. not going to start it again until after i replace all those parts listed above.
I read up on the mpg gauge and what it should read for a normally operating car. the answer is between 40 and 60 at idle. 60 when in gear and decelerating in gear, 30 when accelerating normally and 20 when your getting on it. so that leads me to believe my numbers are fine.
still at a loss on this. have not tried the fuel pump fuse trick but due to the fact that the engine is no longer flooding i don't even think that would help.
ill give you all another update after I've installed the aos seals and replaced the vacuum hoses. for now I'm going to do what i can to salvage the paint until the parts come.
also putting money away for that 85.5 DME and AFM. have a strong feeling the aos seals won't solve the problem either so I'm trying to brace for it lol.
here is a video of the car actually running normally.
Tried starting the car to pull it into the driveway. nada. Put another gallon of gas and jumped it. fired right up. no hesitation, no idle bounce, no misfire, no nothing. once in the garage and after letting it run for 15 or so minutes to charge up on its own, i turned every single light and accessory on. turned on the radio and AC. No dip in rpm no change in idle characteristics. So i decided to just let it run and see what happens. Not a damn thing. the car ran so smoothly i actually couldn't help but smile. after 30 mins i gave up. no mishaps at all. i shut it down. i restarted it twice to see what would happen started right up both times. idle dead on 900. 20 minutes later nothing. car just cranks. no new oil on the ground. no change in oil level on the stick. its right at the half mark.
No matter how hard i try i can't smell any gas. the oil is totally clean, the exhaust is not sweet or moist. not going to start it again until after i replace all those parts listed above.
I read up on the mpg gauge and what it should read for a normally operating car. the answer is between 40 and 60 at idle. 60 when in gear and decelerating in gear, 30 when accelerating normally and 20 when your getting on it. so that leads me to believe my numbers are fine.
still at a loss on this. have not tried the fuel pump fuse trick but due to the fact that the engine is no longer flooding i don't even think that would help.
ill give you all another update after I've installed the aos seals and replaced the vacuum hoses. for now I'm going to do what i can to salvage the paint until the parts come.
also putting money away for that 85.5 DME and AFM. have a strong feeling the aos seals won't solve the problem either so I'm trying to brace for it lol.
here is a video of the car actually running normally.