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I can’t remember, but did you put fresh gas in before? And changed the fuel filter?
This is great news! Yes, the mpg (or a real vac gauge) will show very different when cold vs. operating temp; the warmer, the better reading (closer to 60).
If I were you, now that it’s running fine, I’d drive it—not let it sit. Perhaps sitting around is part of the issue lol
Yes i did put fresh gas in before starting it yesterday as well.
Mans oh man you have no idea how badly I wanna drive this thing. But it keeps cutting out random times. It’s so unpredictable. 20 mins after that video the car refused to start again. And getting it towed to the dealer and to the shop before used up all my tow miles lol.
I'm surprised you don't have more stuck-on gasket material on the head's intake ports; it's probably mostly on the intake itself? Anyway, I'm always curious what people use to scrape that stuff off, arguably the most frustrating part of many jobs.
On my most recent project, I did my usual plastic-razor-blade scraping which doesn't get all that much off. Then, I got a recommendation to use a "stone" and it worked brilliantly. Basically, they're little rectangle sharpening stones that I got at KBC tools (they call them "bench stones"):
I had a sick feeling in my stomach that the valves may have the slightest bend throwing some timing related thing off or letting in too much air causing the car to die or something crazy. the belts were changed about 20k miles ago so it’s getting close.
Interesting you say that. I’ll look into it great info.
The AOS seals were bad for sure but having everything apart I don’t think they are the primary culprit as the seals were weeping, but not dissentegrated. What’s left after all this besides AFM and DME? I thought the rich condition was starting this but it wasn’t since that has been cured. I removed the TPS while I have the intake off and it seems okay to me. I have spark and you guys heard the car run so Reference and speed sensors also seem like they are functioning properly, any other ideas?
I'm surprised you don't have more stuck-on gasket material on the head's intake ports; it's probably mostly on the intake itself? Anyway, I'm always curious what people use to scrape that stuff off, arguably the most frustrating part of many jobs.
On my most recent project, I did my usual plastic-razor-blade scraping which doesn't get all that much off. Then, I got a recommendation to use a "stone" and it worked brilliantly. Basically, they're little rectangle sharpening stones that I got at KBC tools (they call them "bench stones"):
Remember that if you change multiple components at once, there isn't a great way to know which one resolved an issue.
That is a very fair point. I just don’t want to spend money on an AFM and then have to buy another AFM down the road to upgrade it. I figure that if replacing both of those components resolves the issue then one or both of them must have been the culprit and I get the upgrade benefits and my car back on the road. If replacing both of those components doesn’t resolve the issue then I would assume neither of them had anything to do with the issue at any rate. For anyone not wanting to upgrade those components then I would recommend sticking to one at a time as well.
Okay everyone well I just drove it for the first time in about 8 weeks now? Didn’t leave my neighborhood but I drove around my streets for about 20 or so minutes. Here’s how the car behaved,
When first attempting to start it cranked and didn’t fire. I pulled that fuse and it started and ran but this time only at 400 rpm and only for a matter of seconds. I had to jump it but once I did it started but idled very a little poorly. But the longer it ran the higher the idle went. It stayed steady at about 1100 or 1200. I thought that was weird but then I remembered that the guys at the dealer adjusted my idle so I adjusted it back to about 950.
Thanks to dan I paid a little more closer attention to that MPG gauge. Based on what I learned the vacuum wasn’t terrible but it wasn’t exactly normal either. It returned to 40 every time. But on decel in gear it struggled to go above 40. Was quick to drop to 20 on accel and hovered around 30 when holding RPM. Car didn’t feel sluggish or slow. There is a little grumble the amazing kind when there’s a vacuum leak. I’ll check my connections again.
Going to start the car up again right now. I’ll let you know what happens
Car started up and idled very low for about 30 seconds. Then idle came back up. Only thing that’s wonky now is a bogging in low RPMS when you get your foot down. Other than that the car feels great. Has not stalled at all. Going to tighten up as many vac lines as I can and see if that resolves my issues.
Car started up and idled very low for about 30 seconds. Then idle came back up. Only thing that’s wonky now is a bogging in low RPMS when you get your foot down. Other than that the car feels great. Has not stalled at all. Going to tighten up as many vac lines as I can and see if that resolves my issues.
Tightening the hoses didn’t help. Still was having weird problem with super low idle. Give the car gas and eventually idle was fine. Still was lean still getting burbles on revs. Remembered that the dealer guys also messed with the CO level. Aka adjusted the screw on the AFM. Well I didn’t realize you need a CO meter to adjust it. I was going off of exhaust tone and how the car ran and MPG gauge. Well I adsjuted it in my garage to where it was perfect. But the air was much hotter. As soon as I backed out the car stalled. Can’t F***ng restart it because I can’t find the proper AF ratio that that screw needs. I was trying to go by number of half turns. Some results were better than others but I can’t get it right. Stupid move.
Someone give me a deal on an 85.5 DME And AFM if you’ve got good spares laying around. Was going to swap them anyways. Now I have no choice I guess. Idiot.
Before my screw up the good good news was that the car was starting consistently.
07-28-2018 | 08:33 PM
