Nope. Just that fuel pump fuse.

Thanks for the tips! And yes my DME relay is a little over a year old. I replaced it last year after the car had a no start issue. I pulled the pump connected it to my batter and it shot gas all over my garage lol so i changed the relay and it’s been great since. I can feel it click when I turn to ON and I am getting 12 volts to pump when cranking. That’s why I’m sort of assuming those two components are okay.

Hey everybody, unfortunately we’ve been in the process of moving and my poor baby has had to sit out in 100 degree Arizona heat the passed few weeks. She’s only a few more days away from a nice new COOL garage.

Amongst my many late nights researching the hell out of these issues and reading the threads you guys were awesome enough to send me I’m a little confused about one aspect of the injection system on the car, maybe it’s the source of the problem who knows.

So in looking at how to diagnose the FPR, what happens is the fuel pressure is too high, causing the injector drivers to shut down? So pulling one of the injector harness plugs lowers the amperage and opens up the injectors and the car SHOULD start, although it will run rough due to only 3 cylinders firing. Am I correct on that or do I have it mixed up?

The bigger question I’m asking here is, if the fuel pressure is too high T the rail, regardless of the cause (say an FPR or bad fuel pump) what will the ECU tell the engine to do? Does it only cut injectors to prevent cylinder washing? If so since I’m getting too much fuel why aren’t my injectors cutting out preventing flooding instead of continuing to pulse?

If I replace the pump, the filter, and the injectors and I still have this problem where do I need to look?

thanks everyone

-jake

Managed to dig up the invoice just to be thurough. Finally moved into the new place. Once the cars in the garage I’ll order up some of the cheaper stuff like the AOS seals and some vacuum tubing. Any other WYIT parts I should grab?

again thanks to everyone for all the help. Determined to solve this I miss my baby.

Jake.

Oh wow that’s a hefty sum for light work

WYIT parts? At this age, I’m learning to go as far as I can afford in time and $$; these cars all need a restoration / rebuild lol

Re-reading this thread, I’m going to predict you have some bad wiring or shorting such that when the problem occurs, some fuel circuit wiring is exposed and shorting on something.

Yeah, I don’t know ‘nothin ‘bout electricity... but really... it runs great then problems then great with the only constant being the weird fuse thing. You install some fancy radio or something and mess up some wires?

Lol it’s funny you say that a while ago I did manage to find a newer blaupunkt Head unit to install after I did some testing and discovered my 30 year old speakers worked. PO removed the stock radio and I never did understand why. Everything was cut and tapped back there it was a mess. I replaced the front speakers and have an extra set waiting to go in the rear. But noting fancy by any means just a small single DIN head unit. The only PITA was locating which wires corresponded to wich speakers. I actually came up with a pretty nifty idea took a pair of headphones with a regular jack cut em and stripped the ends of the wires. Plugged my phone in as usual then twisted the wires to each speaker and listened for sound to locate the speaker. Installing the head unit was easy as pie, no need to mess with the wiring just plug and play. That was months ago however well before my new magical fuel issue showed up. The only things I did prior to this happening was I installed some fancy led headlights so that I could actually see at night and replaced my rear pads and rotors. LEDs didn’t cause any issues they were great for the three weeks I got to use them. As well as my rotors. Got to use those for about a week they aren’t even worn in yet as the car has been sitting all this time.

Not to hijack my own thread but I’m sure all the cranking has killed my starter. With a new battery cranking drops down to 10 to 11 volts car May turnover once VERRRY slowly and then nothin. All the lights dim. Could this be another symptom of whatever possible electrical issue you’re describing or safe to say a new starter will remedy that???

Have you checked all the ground connections for looseness or corrosion?

I cleaned the ground on the intake manifold while I had it off. The battery trey, firewall, and under the dash looked clean no signs of corrosion. Are there more I can check/ clean?

I’m referring to this guy right here. Looks like a ground wire to me bolts on to the intake manifold via a hex head same as the other bolts that go in. It goes from the intake manifold to the firewall.


That wire on the left of the o2 sensor wire arrow going down to the Allen key bolt on the intake. That’s what I’m referring to, I just assumed that was a ground since it looks like the battery cable wire. Is that correct or am I way off???

You are correct about the red and white wires. Those run down to my O2 sensor it is definitely not factory. They came on the car like that when I bought it.

First picture with the arrows is just a google image not of my car. I was having trouble uploading photos from my phone and downloaded that one to show the other angle where it bolts to the firewall. Thanks for looking out though!

Wilco I’ll take a peak later today. Thanks again everyone for the replies!