How should steering feel ?
#31
Racer
On the whole tie rod replacement I assume that was the reason, even if the inner joint was replaceable I am guessing the cost would have been the same with the slightly more labor with the latter.
#32
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
But I know what steering play feels like. My 1982 Mercedes has a very worn out steering box, and when driving straight, there is about 5-6 degrees of steering wheel rotation (with no resistance) before the front wheels change direction at all. Like jderimig, my Porsches all have no play. If they do have any, it's so small that I don't perceive it.
#33
Rennlist Member
People who've either inherited a de-powered rack or are thinking of undertaking the procedure themselves have related experiencing some slack and I've suggested the source may be not shimming the area over the valve spools, under t-bar, correctly. If you look at the photo on The Machine Shop's site, it shows the spools as parts that aren't needed in a de-powered rack, but that's only true if the torsion bar is welded to the pinion. If you use the "shadetree" method, the spools stay in and you put in the shims under t-bar that keep them from moving. If you don't, in theory, you might experience slop. I've never observed it myself, never tried it.
That's all I was ever trying to say.
Last edited by Otto Mechanic; 06-05-2018 at 08:27 AM.
#35
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So I got the car up on ramps yesterday to check for any play. I used a pry bar against the chassis and could not get any movement of the steering rack. So those bushings seem ok. I tried to see if there was any movement in the tie rods but those were rock solid as well. Zero play - at least with me trying to twist and move them with both hands. The end links were solid as well, no movement could be had. I tried turning the wheel one full rotation and Checking for play as someone suggested and didn't feel any preceived play, but I'm not 100% sure on this one. Next I'll get the wife to turn then wheel and see what happens.
#36
Instructor
let us know how it goes, im in a similar place, confused,.. is it play or normal. only left to change in my case is rack bushings and wheel bearings but my mechanic tells these seemed to be fine so i dont have much confidence that these will change anything for better. but when some say even 1mm wheel turn affects the car movement then there must be something why we dont get this. dunno if this is bs or not but somewhere i red that 944 steering racks are in 3 different versions is that the culprit? maybe EU cars had diffeerent ones vs US ones ? i even got newer 968 rack but dead zone is quite same.
#37
Racer
You cannot apply enough force this way. The way my shop demonstrated the worn inner tie rods was to lift the car and have a man on each wheel toe and un toe the wheels. You really have to horse them.
Last edited by jderimig; 06-05-2018 at 11:53 AM.
#38
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
ok, got under the car today, pulled off the steering rack boots and had the kiddo turn the wheel back an forth. I felt and heard a knocking an noticed play where the tie rod connects to the steering rack.
First question: Im assuming there should be zero play and
Second question: Can the tie rods be changed with the rack on the car?
First question: Im assuming there should be zero play and
Second question: Can the tie rods be changed with the rack on the car?
#39
Racer
ok, got under the car today, pulled off the steering rack boots and had the kiddo turn the wheel back an forth. I felt and heard a knocking an noticed play where the tie rod connects to the steering rack.
First question: Im assuming there should be zero play and
Second question: Can the tie rods be changed with the rack on the car?
First question: Im assuming there should be zero play and
Second question: Can the tie rods be changed with the rack on the car?
Yes
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If you Replace the tie rods with the steering rack on the car how do you peen back the tie rod flanges, II don’t see how there would be room
#41
Racer
I didn't do mine, the shop did (without removing the rack). Here's a how to for 928 rods (rack is pretty much the same I think...)
https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...ie-rods-384028
https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...ie-rods-384028
#42
Rennlist Member
I didn't do mine, the shop did (without removing the rack). Here's a how to for 928 rods (rack is pretty much the same I think...)
https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...ie-rods-384028
https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...ie-rods-384028
#43
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have been able to peen new tie rods, just get a punch and get creative with the angle.
On the last couple of tie rods that I did, I didn't bother peening and just used blue loctite instead.
When you take out the old tie rod, don't loosen the adjuster nut on it. Then you can make your new tie rod the same length (approx) so you can get the toe setting as close to before as you can. You should still get it aligned, though.
On the last couple of tie rods that I did, I didn't bother peening and just used blue loctite instead.
When you take out the old tie rod, don't loosen the adjuster nut on it. Then you can make your new tie rod the same length (approx) so you can get the toe setting as close to before as you can. You should still get it aligned, though.
#45
Rennlist Member
Quick update to this thread. I was also having a bit of on-center play (about 1") in my steering after replacing nearly the entire front suspension. A recent PCA DE tech inspection revealed some *very* slight play in my right front wheel which turned out to be a wheel bearing that was ever so slightly loose. I tightened it down just a bit (slightly more than the "move the washer with a screwdriver" method) and this eliminated most of the on-center play. I suspect that the little bit of play remaining is related to worn u-joints in the steering shaft - I will be replacing it with the Rennbay reproduction that I won at 944 Fest.