Question on prepping a race car interior
#1
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I am finally getting around to finishing the interior of my SP2 race car. I purchased it partially prepped and have focused initially on engine and suspension work. I am now planning to clean and prep the interior for painting.
There is a lot of material on the central tunnel, I assume it is sound deadening. What is the best way to remove it down to the metal?
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I used a heat gun to soften the material and putty knife to strip it away. It will leave behind a small amount of adhesive residue which I removed using 3M adhesive remover.
#3
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Make your life easy, goto Lowes and buy a electric multi- tool for 50 bucks and pick up a can of lauqer thinner. I never used a heat gun on mine it all came off pretty clean with the tool ...... a quick wipe with a real rag ( not the blue paper ones) was cleaned and ready for sanding and primer. I believe I have pics in my "a racecar is born" thread. The multi-tool makes a miserable job quick and easy! -G
#4
Race Car
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Those horizontal pieces shown in your first pic are almost like a roof shingle, they go pretty easy because they are not stuck across the whole size of the pieces.
On the rest, I get yourself 2 of this type of gasket scraper, putty knives bend too much.
![](https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/35GR61_AS01?$mdmain$)
Either set up a heat gun or a propane torch where it is stationary and rest the two scraper tips where the heat hits them. Let them heat up thoroughly.
Using one until it cools to the point where it's less successful, rest it down in front of heat gun air and swap it for the one that is heated.
Repeat, repeat.
The scrapers work best using the 45 deg sharpened edge facing down (not up as if scraping a gasket) and using the 45 deg as your guide to rest it against the body surface.
SEM Solve, MEK or 3M Trim Adhesive Remover mops up the rest.
When I get to a point where it's just loose glue left, I wet a towel with MEK and just rest it on an area, be scraping that one while you rest the MEK wetted towel on another area.
T
On the rest, I get yourself 2 of this type of gasket scraper, putty knives bend too much.
Either set up a heat gun or a propane torch where it is stationary and rest the two scraper tips where the heat hits them. Let them heat up thoroughly.
Using one until it cools to the point where it's less successful, rest it down in front of heat gun air and swap it for the one that is heated.
Repeat, repeat.
The scrapers work best using the 45 deg sharpened edge facing down (not up as if scraping a gasket) and using the 45 deg as your guide to rest it against the body surface.
SEM Solve, MEK or 3M Trim Adhesive Remover mops up the rest.
When I get to a point where it's just loose glue left, I wet a towel with MEK and just rest it on an area, be scraping that one while you rest the MEK wetted towel on another area.
T
#5
Race Car
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![](https://s17.postimg.cc/cm9ontky7/Interior_removed-cleaning.jpg)
![](https://s17.postimg.cc/7ow42elgf/Interior_cleaning-stripped4.jpg)
![](https://s17.postimg.cc/d0b0nckgf/Interior_removed-cleaning2.jpg)
![](https://s17.postimg.cc/nzw7yzsvz/Interior_cleaning-stripped2.jpg)
For the stuff you see remaining, I use the same chip guard texture spray that's on the rockers exterior and just blend it to the floor.
The chip guard is paintable and does a good job in making the floor look factory with texture in some selective areas.
BTW, make sure all previously plugged holes in the floor are replugged, preferably with metal as PCA made it clear a year or two ago that no holes in cabin that would allow fire intrusion are allowed.
And don't forget the mandatory data plug that was an addendum last year to PCA Club Racing rule book.
T