car won't start after clutch job (sorta)
#17
I guess if you had an analog volt meter with a low scale you would see the needle come up to 2 to 3 volts as you cranked the engine. Don't think you would see the spike of the TDC location.
#18
If you ohm out the sensor and it comes back .6 to 1.6 K ohms then the sensor is good. You would then check that the clearance is 0.8 mm.
You should see 12 vdc at the coil and at the ignition module that the coil is connected to. Take a spare spark plug, pull a wire and stick the plug into it. Lay it on the intake manifold so the spark plug grounds and crank the car.
To check that the injectors are firing you need a "noid" light. Basically just a diode and resistor in series. Get the one for Bosch so it fits the plugs.
You should see 12 vdc at the coil and at the ignition module that the coil is connected to. Take a spare spark plug, pull a wire and stick the plug into it. Lay it on the intake manifold so the spark plug grounds and crank the car.
To check that the injectors are firing you need a "noid" light. Basically just a diode and resistor in series. Get the one for Bosch so it fits the plugs.
#19
*update*
i did the spark check and the car does in fact have spark. i didn't check all the plugs but i know cylinder 1 is getting spark. is this a good enough test to try other things or should i still put a scope on the reference sensor's output?
also, when pulling the plugs to clean them off, i noticed that they were soaked with gas after about 10sec of cranking. is this normal or am i running too rich to start? could this be a sign of a failed fpr? vacuum lines hooked up wrong? no air coming in to the cylinder (failed isv or something like that?) if there's anything else i should be checking for please explain. could the afm have anything to do with this at all? just asking because i did take it apart so if that's a possibility, i'll align it back to stock. thanks for any help.
i did the spark check and the car does in fact have spark. i didn't check all the plugs but i know cylinder 1 is getting spark. is this a good enough test to try other things or should i still put a scope on the reference sensor's output?
also, when pulling the plugs to clean them off, i noticed that they were soaked with gas after about 10sec of cranking. is this normal or am i running too rich to start? could this be a sign of a failed fpr? vacuum lines hooked up wrong? no air coming in to the cylinder (failed isv or something like that?) if there's anything else i should be checking for please explain. could the afm have anything to do with this at all? just asking because i did take it apart so if that's a possibility, i'll align it back to stock. thanks for any help.
#20
Just about gone over everything. As to your question on the vacuum being hooked up wrong; it's possible. The small vacuum lines that go to the fuel pressure reg and dampener come off of the intake manifold side of the throttle body. Should also go to the vent valve for the crank case. If the small vacuum lines are not connected, open end, then there is no vacuum to control the fuel pressure.
As to the AFS; If you just moved the wipers in or out with out messing with the spring inside than it's still close enough to spec not to worry.
As you are getting spark you have to be getting injector pulse. It's an 'S' only one sensor.
The idle control valve only comes into play when you get it started.
As to the AFS; If you just moved the wipers in or out with out messing with the spring inside than it's still close enough to spec not to worry.
As you are getting spark you have to be getting injector pulse. It's an 'S' only one sensor.
The idle control valve only comes into play when you get it started.
#21
Originally posted by SoCal Driver
Just about gone over everything. As to your question on the vacuum being hooked up wrong; it's possible. The small vacuum lines that go to the fuel pressure reg and dampener come off of the intake manifold side of the throttle body. Should also go to the vent valve for the crank case. If the small vacuum lines are not connected, open end, then there is no vacuum to control the fuel pressure.
As to the AFS; If you just moved the wipers in or out with out messing with the spring inside than it's still close enough to spec not to worry.
As you are getting spark you have to be getting injector pulse. It's an 'S' only one sensor.
The idle control valve only comes into play when you get it started.
Just about gone over everything. As to your question on the vacuum being hooked up wrong; it's possible. The small vacuum lines that go to the fuel pressure reg and dampener come off of the intake manifold side of the throttle body. Should also go to the vent valve for the crank case. If the small vacuum lines are not connected, open end, then there is no vacuum to control the fuel pressure.
As to the AFS; If you just moved the wipers in or out with out messing with the spring inside than it's still close enough to spec not to worry.
As you are getting spark you have to be getting injector pulse. It's an 'S' only one sensor.
The idle control valve only comes into play when you get it started.
#22
I vote for the AFM having a problem. You had it out and it was messed with.
If you are getting spark the speed/reference sensor is giving the DME a signal. So that is not the problem. Unplug the AFM and try to start the car.
Let us know what happens.
If you are getting spark the speed/reference sensor is giving the DME a signal. So that is not the problem. Unplug the AFM and try to start the car.
Let us know what happens.
#24
Originally posted by cruise98
I vote for the AFM having a problem. You had it out and it was messed with.
If you are getting spark the speed/reference sensor is giving the DME a signal. So that is not the problem. Unplug the AFM and try to start the car.
Let us know what happens.
I vote for the AFM having a problem. You had it out and it was messed with.
If you are getting spark the speed/reference sensor is giving the DME a signal. So that is not the problem. Unplug the AFM and try to start the car.
Let us know what happens.
#26
is there any way to reset the dme? like is there some series of turning the key on and off to reset it? or for that matter, is there a quick way to retrieve codes by turning the key on and off? i know that works in some cars but didn't know the specifics for our cars. gotta admit, i'm feeling kind of defeated and i could really use some help here. is there anyone who's local to me who could check it out? i'd be happy to give a few bucks or lunch and beer. if not, i might have to take it somewhere, which is kind of a pain but if it has to be then so be it. i'm at the end of my diagnostic skills unless anyone else has more suggestions
#28
Originally posted by cruise98
The only way I know to reset the DME is to disconnect the battery.
The only way I know to reset the DME is to disconnect the battery.
#30
Originally posted by cruise98
Andrew:
Have you checked the DME grounds at the bellhousing and engine block?
Andrew:
Have you checked the DME grounds at the bellhousing and engine block?