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Driver's rear -- and the rotor was HOT... 500+F on the thermal.
In any case, any thoughts on attempting a rebuild or just source a used one... or just buy a piston from the local parts company and skip trying to maintain the originals... not the pins or anything that I can see binding it.
Source a used one (they are dime a dozen) and then take apart the seized one to see if it's even rebuildable. If so, rebuild it and keep it as a spare or sell it to cover cost of the used one. Or keep the piston if it's good to use for the next one that needs rebuilding.
Rebuild kits are cheap enough that it's maybe worth a shot. But on the other hand, if it's corroded badly enough to be seized, it may be a lost cause. Personally, I'd give rebuilding a shot. It's not hard to do (assuming single piston calipers, I haven't rebuilt any Turbo calipers so I don't know personally).
Source a used one (they are dime a dozen) and then take apart the seized one to see if it's even rebuildable. If so, rebuild it and keep it as a spare or sell it to cover cost of the used one. Or keep the piston if it's good to use for the next one that needs rebuilding.
Anyone have a driver's rear for an NA?
Originally Posted by SloMo228
Rebuild kits are cheap enough that it's maybe worth a shot. But on the other hand, if it's corroded badly enough to be seized, it may be a lost cause. Personally, I'd give rebuilding a shot. It's not hard to do (assuming single piston calipers, I haven't rebuilt any Turbo calipers so I don't know personally).
Is the piston seized in the bore or is the floating bracket just binding? Its tough to tell from looking at it but taking it apart will tell you more. I had 3 seized calipers when I bought my 87 n/a. A quick disassembly revealed the pistons & bores to be fine, cleaned them all up, had them powder coated, new seals, pins, spring plates, etc. and they are better than new.
Neither of the rears on my '86na were working when I got the car. When I removed the calipers I discovered the tops of the pistons were rusted to the bores. I tossed them in an ultrasonic cleaner for about 45 minutes and was able to pull the pistons out by hand. Just surface rust holding them together.
The pistons were fine as were the inside of the bores. Wire brushed the rest of the rust off, little bit of paint to help keep them from rusting again, new seals and all was good. From what I could tell the rubber boot tends to hold water and will eventually rust the two together.
Don't ask me why fronts were less expensive. There are bigger. Easy DYI project. Do your self a favor and take out the pas closest to the cylinder and use the brakes to get the cylinder out as far as you can before taking the caliper off. Mark its orientation in the caliper to get the 20% pitch correct. Speeds things up!
03-27-2018, 11:59 AM
Seized caliper, attempt rebuild?
