User 462021

I couldn't agree more!

washington951

the full-boat kit is amazing. on a turbo at least, the alternator is a BITCH (was for me, anyway) hopefully its better on the S2

as for tinting the hatch - find a place that has experience doing corvettes since the curves of the glass are similar. Formula One Performance Automotive Film is a national chain that authorizes local installers. really good bunch - at least my experience was great. Custom Sun Control in Marietta GA - 367.50 out the door for a full tint job 6-27-01

(legal levels - they put a little sticker on inside of the front windshield - very subtle - stating the depth of the tint and that its legal)

hey brian perry - whats your story?!!!

Perry 951

Dave - I installed mine with no front end or engine bay, so I may not be of too much help, however, Dan did make the cables a little long so you can run them on top of the OEM cables. You may still want to remove the header panel and intake stuff so you can route the cables along the front with the OEM stuff.

Short of that, it's a pretty easy install.

Here's a tip (if you got the Alternator cable) - lay the OEM exciter wires over the fiberglass sheath BEFORE you pull them into the harness. I noticed that Dan had punched the feed wires on mine too far forward for them to rest gently under the intake. I moved my exit hole back about 6" and it was perfect.

Also, on the starter, bend the end of the fusable link up and towards the bell housing. This will allow it not to contact the body, and rotate with the motor. (not that there should be much rotation with good motor mounts, but just in case)

Perry 951

I got's no story....

CPTdooberhead

I have had the full kit for over a year now just sitting in my room. When I get home I definately plan on installing it- I had actually forgotten I even had it... hope its not too much of a pain to install

IceShark

Cyrus, Erich is correct on the new price for the Full Boat package - $369.50 including an extra set of 90/100 bulbs and shipping in the US lower 48. The pair of Cibie lenses went up by $10 due to the USD$ tanking against the Euro (just look at an exchange rate chart- it is really bad) and the wiring harness went up by $10 due to US parts suppliers raising their prices since the last build.

Dave, the reason the instructions say remove air intake plumbing is so you can get to the alternator to install the adjustable voltage regulator and connect the power take-off cable to the alt. This the the most difficult part of the install, especially on a 951, because it takes some time. I don't think you need to mess with your air box and whatnot up in the nose of your S2. Just fish the harness for the right hand headlight through the bumper - there is a central "tunnel" you can run it through. Or you can choose a different route if you want since as Brian noted I made the right hand harness with a fair amount of extra length specifically for this option.

Jakerx

hey matt ya i got a liftetime warranty on mine too. my total for just tinting came to 190 but since he took off the old one and guaranteed saving my rear defroster he charged 50 more for removal. does the 180 in austin also include removal? because damn i should've gotten it done there then. haha. o btw for inspection, im jus gonna roll down my passenger and driver side windows and take out the relay or fuse. plus where i get my inspection done im good friends with the guy. he already told me he doesn't care.

Lee Zook

Dave,
I have the light kit and battery cables installed on my 951. I did the install when I had the engine compartment somewhat apart doing the oil pan gasket and front seals. Send me a PM if you would like to take a look at them.
Lee

Danno

"Dave, the reason the instructions say remove air intake plumbing is so you can get to the alternator to install the adjustable voltage regulator and connect the power take-off cable to the alt. This the the most difficult part of the install, especially on a 951, because it takes some time."

Boy is that last part an understatement!!! I thought I would be sly and get the proper 1/4" drive deep 8mm socket along with a 6" flexible-wire extension (like the stuff plumbers use). I ended up pulling the entire engine out to get to that little VRM!!! Well had to do a clutch too...

P.S. Just updated Dan's "LightingUpgrades" on the GURU Racing website with the latest pricing changes. Also fixed the pop-up windows for the photos. Still have to track down the links to older Rennlist threads... all the references changed with the new server...

IceShark

Danno, yeah, us Midwest raised types get a rap for understatement for a very good reason - its TRUE!

It would be nice to get those Rennlist thread links re-established because they had a ton of lighting information for people to learn from. And I sometimes get tired of repeating the same thing a hundred times. But take care of your own Biz first.

For those of you that don't know, Danno put that page up on his own because he liked what I was doing. He gets no "cut" out of it and I don't pay him any money for the design or keeping it up online, he did it because he loves the cars and wants people to have the best. And Ben S. did all these tests on his car after he got the Cibies and 90/100 watters and took pictures of it. I had nothing to do with the whole works other than telling them "Sure, you can put it on a web page." Simple as that. So thanks Danno, if you ever figure out how to get the Rennlist links working again that would be GREAT!