Oil cooler seal replacement - question.
02-15-2018, 07:54 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oil cooler seal replacement - question... answered and seals replaced.
I am thinking I should take the opportunity of having the 924S up on blocks with both coolant and oil drained to see to changing the oil cooler seals before the onset of the dreaded milkshake. According to Clarke's Garage the headers should be unbolted and moved aside. After watching this video from Irina, it would seem that it is not necessary to touch the headers.
In the video the belt covers, belts and sprockets have been removed, perhaps that has an effect. I would really not have to deal with rusted on header nuts. What has been the experience of others?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by elgy; 04-05-2018 at 12:27 AM. Reason: new title
02-15-2018, 09:10 PM
#2
On my 83 944 with manual steering I was able to do the oil cooler seals without removing the exhaust manifolds or the timing belt covers. In fact it was pretty easy. I didn't watch the video but there's a heat shield attach to the oil cooler housing that needs to be removed first.
Last edited by marc abrams; 02-15-2018 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Add belt cover
02-15-2018, 11:37 PM
#4
On my 92 I needed to drop the sway bar and unclip the power steering line to wiggle the housing out but I didn't have a thin 24 to pull the sender. The housing may be sightly different with the external cooler.
i think Ian offers a test service the exchanger at 44online. Note which seals you have as the kits can be generic.
Print, borrow or buy the pin tool.
i think Ian offers a test service the exchanger at 44online. Note which seals you have as the kits can be generic.
Print, borrow or buy the pin tool.
02-16-2018, 12:23 PM
#5
Proprietoristicly Refined
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
No need to remove the headers on the '87 or '88 924S.
Have the alignment tool and new seals for the OPRV---the correct seals for the '87. Porsche had 2 different OPRVs that year.
Read ----
http://www.944online.com/pdf/oilcoolertech.pdf
and this post and my apology on post #23
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...oo-much-2.html
J_AZ
Have the alignment tool and new seals for the OPRV---the correct seals for the '87. Porsche had 2 different OPRVs that year.
Read ----
http://www.944online.com/pdf/oilcoolertech.pdf
and this post and my apology on post #23
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...oo-much-2.html
J_AZ
Last edited by John_AZ; 02-16-2018 at 03:40 PM. Reason: pdf ...
02-16-2018, 02:26 PM
#6
Racer
Is there a recommended interval to change the oil cooler seal and also are any special tools required? Reason I ask is I am about to do a new head gasket/timing belt job.
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02-17-2018, 09:39 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies.
I did a search for the alignment tool needed for this operation and found this plastic model available for a reasonable price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-924...xWDbWO&vxp=mtr
Has any one tried this? I saw in other threads that some members have made their own alignment tools from wooden dowels, so for occasional use likely the original metal tool is not necessary.
I did a search for the alignment tool needed for this operation and found this plastic model available for a reasonable price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-924...xWDbWO&vxp=mtr
Has any one tried this? I saw in other threads that some members have made their own alignment tools from wooden dowels, so for occasional use likely the original metal tool is not necessary.
03-12-2018, 12:51 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got the housing out!
Removing oil cooler with the exhaust headers in place takes some imaginative use of available tools. Here is my experience for those who are interested.
My 924S was already partially disassembled when I made the WYAIT decision to change the oil cooler seals. My sway bar had already been removed, to permit changing the steering rack, and though all the power steering plumbing was back in place I had not yet filled it with fluid, which turned out to be an advantage as I was able to remove the P/S reservoir and the P/S pump which I left hanging by a modified coat hanger. The coolant had already been drained from the radiator.
First challenge was removing the block coolant drain bolt. First I couldn’t find it. Finally I looked more carefully at the Clark’s Garage write-up where there is a photo that helped. Working from underneath using a 3/8” ratchet, a 3/8” to 1/4” adaptor and a 13mm 1/4” drive socket I was able to loosen the bolt. The combination of the adaptor and 1/4” drive socket is a bit longer than the 13mm 3/8” drive socket and gives a bit of clearance from the block. Once the bolt was loose I used a spring type 3/8” drive extension and socket (could have used a regular extension and universal joint) to remove the bolt.
I had already installed a new oil filter and it really did not want to come loose. No way was I going to destroy it like I often end up doing to remove old filters. I ended up attaching a simple C-clamp vertically on the top of the filter and was able to get it turning.
I didn’t have a thin 24mm wrench to remove the oil pressure sender, so bought a used 15/16” open end wrench and ground the sides down so that it is now about 5/16” thick and it worked just fine.
The OPRV is a 24mm socket, if you remove it before the sender use a standard rather than a deep socket (I had not yet fabricated my thin wrench for the sender). I started with a deep socket and while screwing it out the socket hung up on the sender… so I had to screw it back in and then use a standard socket.
On the cooler housing bolts:
Top left (or top rear) you can see from above, and get a socket on it with a universal joint and an extension but I was afraid of stripping the bolt head because of the angle. Instead I went underneath with the socket, universal joint and extension and got the socket on the bolt head by feel. It was a much better angle and the bolt came loose with no problem.
Top right (or top front) you can see it from above at an angle and by running a socket and extension under the exhaust header you have straight in access, working from above. I wasn’t able to get the 3/8” drive extension to work because of the limited clearance between the header and the cooler housing, but the combination 3/8” ratchet, a 3/8” to 1/4” adaptor, 1/4” drive extension and a 13mm 1/4” drive socket did the trick.
Bottom left (or bottom rear) was the easiest, regular 3/8” ratchet, extension and 13mm socket working from underneath.
Bottom right (or bottom front) was not too bad, 3/8” ratchet, long extension, universal joint and 13mm socket working from underneath. You have to get it on the bolt head by feel.
At this point the cooler can be removed from the block… the next challenge is getting it out.
As suggested above by thomasmryan, I unclipped the power steering line, but there still was not enough room. By turning the steering wheel as far as it would go to the left I was able to get the necessary clearance, because the steering rack boot is scrunched up, and slip the housing out.
My 924S was already partially disassembled when I made the WYAIT decision to change the oil cooler seals. My sway bar had already been removed, to permit changing the steering rack, and though all the power steering plumbing was back in place I had not yet filled it with fluid, which turned out to be an advantage as I was able to remove the P/S reservoir and the P/S pump which I left hanging by a modified coat hanger. The coolant had already been drained from the radiator.
First challenge was removing the block coolant drain bolt. First I couldn’t find it. Finally I looked more carefully at the Clark’s Garage write-up where there is a photo that helped. Working from underneath using a 3/8” ratchet, a 3/8” to 1/4” adaptor and a 13mm 1/4” drive socket I was able to loosen the bolt. The combination of the adaptor and 1/4” drive socket is a bit longer than the 13mm 3/8” drive socket and gives a bit of clearance from the block. Once the bolt was loose I used a spring type 3/8” drive extension and socket (could have used a regular extension and universal joint) to remove the bolt.
I had already installed a new oil filter and it really did not want to come loose. No way was I going to destroy it like I often end up doing to remove old filters. I ended up attaching a simple C-clamp vertically on the top of the filter and was able to get it turning.
I didn’t have a thin 24mm wrench to remove the oil pressure sender, so bought a used 15/16” open end wrench and ground the sides down so that it is now about 5/16” thick and it worked just fine.
The OPRV is a 24mm socket, if you remove it before the sender use a standard rather than a deep socket (I had not yet fabricated my thin wrench for the sender). I started with a deep socket and while screwing it out the socket hung up on the sender… so I had to screw it back in and then use a standard socket.
On the cooler housing bolts:
Top left (or top rear) you can see from above, and get a socket on it with a universal joint and an extension but I was afraid of stripping the bolt head because of the angle. Instead I went underneath with the socket, universal joint and extension and got the socket on the bolt head by feel. It was a much better angle and the bolt came loose with no problem.
Top right (or top front) you can see it from above at an angle and by running a socket and extension under the exhaust header you have straight in access, working from above. I wasn’t able to get the 3/8” drive extension to work because of the limited clearance between the header and the cooler housing, but the combination 3/8” ratchet, a 3/8” to 1/4” adaptor, 1/4” drive extension and a 13mm 1/4” drive socket did the trick.
Bottom left (or bottom rear) was the easiest, regular 3/8” ratchet, extension and 13mm socket working from underneath.
Bottom right (or bottom front) was not too bad, 3/8” ratchet, long extension, universal joint and 13mm socket working from underneath. You have to get it on the bolt head by feel.
At this point the cooler can be removed from the block… the next challenge is getting it out.
As suggested above by thomasmryan, I unclipped the power steering line, but there still was not enough room. By turning the steering wheel as far as it would go to the left I was able to get the necessary clearance, because the steering rack boot is scrunched up, and slip the housing out.
04-05-2018, 12:35 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The cooler is back on the engine with new seals and gaskets. A real PITA getting the housing back in place with the new gasket and seals in place. But still preferable to trying to undoing those rusty old header bolts. I have started the engine briefly and no problems so far. Tomorrow I will let it run long enough to warm up and check for fluid leaks.
