Arominus

The money for the second set of mounts will pretty much get you the complete set of power steering hoses, once you replace them you are set for a good 10 years.

Jfrahm

Not a lot less time but a lot more pleasant working conditions, not jacknifing under the car like a gulf shrimp and back out when you need another tool (or beverage).
If you have a tall screw adjustable jackstand it'd be easy to use to support the motor and adjust it's height from below.
https://www.northerntool.com/images/..._2_400x400.jpg

IMO the HF engine support bar is overkill for the home-gamer, some wood and ratchet straps do the job just fine. If however someone has the bar to loan that'd come in handy (anyone? CO Denver/Boulder/FtC?)
I probably should buy one 'cause I need to do some 928 mounts as well.

-Joel.

MAGK944

snb13

Terminolgy is off. The Porsche MM's are hydraulic (liquid filled). Semi-solid are metal and rubber.

Arominus

It is overkill for mounts, but its magic for doing the rod bearings which is why i bought it. Its handy at times to have on hand after that.

MAGK944

snb13

Rims are part of the wheel. 😜

Otto Mechanic

By "semi-solid" I assume metal and rubber rather than solid rubber or liquid filled rubber.

After reading through all the reviews on RL before deciding which parts to use on my '89 S2, I ended up buying the semi-solid mounts Pelican was selling at the time. They were branded "SuperMounts" and the manufacturer also offered a transmission mount with the same kind of construction; billet aluminum and hard rubber. The SuperMounts aren't height adjustable but since I wasn't doing any exotic suspension work that didn't matter to me. I'm not sure Pelican still carries them but they're blue.

Lindsey Racing were offering a different product, similar construction, but also included shims for custom height adjustment at a slightly higher price. They're gold. I think Lindsey also call them "SuperMounts" but I'm not sure. They don't look the same as the ones I got from Pelican.

I'm building a track car so I wasn't too concerned with increased vibration at idle and, to be honest, the only prior experience I had with the car before replacing them was with what I think were probably the original mounts that were almost 30 years old and completely shot. The new mounts are better than they were. I wanted to stiffen the drive line because I was putting in a racing clutch and because the S2 puts out a fair amount of torque; twisting the drive line messes with shift precision. I'd also read a few accounts of the OEM mounts not lasting as long as some people have experienced and I figured the semi-solid mounts would probably be good for the life of the car so they were worth an extra 25% over the cost of the OEM mounts.

EDIT: I checked and Pelican doesn't sell the SuperMounts anymore, looks like maybe no one does. Lindsey's equivalent part is called an "Ultra Mount". Looks like the prices have come down a bit? Almost the same product I think.

URO Support

Otto Mechanic

Does this mean it's re-fillable? Any idea what the fitting specs are? What sort of fluid is it filled with?

URO Support

Good question! Unfortunately, hydromounts not refillable. They're typically filled with some variation of propylene glycol thanks to the material's viscosity and compatibility with rubber. Failure of hydromounts is usually due to the eventual cracking of the rubber due to flex cycles, heat, age, and exposure to ozone. Once a crack breaches the inner wall of the mount, the damping fluid quickly leaks out and the mount must be replaced. Hydromounts have a shorter lifespan than solid mounts, but the reduction in vibration and harshness is worth the additional maintenance for passenger vehicles where comfort is a high priority.

Underhood Service magazine has a good article on the subject:
http://www.underhoodservice.com/motor-mount-logic/

Otto Mechanic

Thanks for the clarification, it's about what I would have expected; once the seal fails the mount needs replacement. I asked because there have been some people who've used a liquid polyurethane that sets up as a solid in 24 hours to "re-condition" the hydromounts used on the transmission and possibly the motor mounts themselves, I'd have to look it up again. That sort of repair wouldn't require integrity of the container, folks have patched cracks with duct tape while they wait for the compound to set.

URO Support

Ah, wasn't familiar with that DIY fix. Naturally we can't officially recommend or approve of it, but suppose it would work as long as you're able to inject the right amount of liquid polyurethane to restore the proper loaded height, which would be tricky to gauge after the mount rests deflated and compressed for awhile. How well does a "repaired" hybrid PU / rubber mount work compared to a new solid rubber one? The puck of new polyurethane would fill the cavity but probably wouldn't bond to the interior walls due to the residual glycol, so it could float in there a bit. Which might be fine, but remember that cracking rubber created the glycol leak in the first place, and the mount is probably on its last legs at that point. Has anyone using this mod ever had the container fail?

Arominus

Filling the transmount is good, as its not a liquid mount to start with, filling it with 60A gives you a "sport" style mount that deflects less and that won't tear under load. IMO this is absolutely required on every 944 with the late style mount, as its less able to control the movement of the transaxle vs the early style mounts.

Polyfilling the motor mounts just nets you the equivalent of one of the solid rubber mounts, only stiffer. It is also significanly harder to fill than the trans mount.

MAGK944