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Used Cruise Control Brain - Any Luck?

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Old 12-16-2003 | 04:08 PM
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Default Used Cruise Control Brain - Any Luck?

Has anyone had good luck installing a used/non-reconditioned cruise control brain in an early 944? My cruise doesn't hold speed, so I'm assuming it is the computer and not the servo. 20th Street Auto has a used one for $100 that they warranty for 120 days. My guess is that if it works at all, it will probably die shortly after the warranty expires. Any other suggestions on sources to get re-conditioned cruise brains - new OEM ones are $400. Thanks.
Old 12-16-2003 | 04:17 PM
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A re-solder usually fixes em right up.

I'd buy the one for 100 and get the old one re-soldered.
Old 12-16-2003 | 04:20 PM
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I've read about the re-solder, but I don't have a clue who to take it to. I think any electronics repair place I go to in Phoenix will either screw it up or charge a fortune.
Old 12-16-2003 | 04:43 PM
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If you go to a TV repair shop they shouldn't charge more than $25 $30 bucks.

If you get the used one can shop around.
Old 12-16-2003 | 04:59 PM
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I'm not in any real hurry, since I don't use the cruise that often, just want to get it ready for my next long trip in a couple months. I think I will pull mine out and take it to a couple of places and see what they say about re-soldering. Thanks.
Old 12-16-2003 | 05:39 PM
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I mine to a TV repair shop. He charged $25 to redo all the solders and he said they were all bad (each one bubbled when he put the iron on it meaning there was air in the original solder.

After they were all redone, it works perfectly. I don't think you even need to buy one. Just pull the old one out and take it to a TV place (I think you'll have more luck with an independent shop, not a chain.) Good luck.
Old 12-17-2003 | 12:15 AM
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Sid, I see in an older post, you said you can take off the conformal coating by soaking it in acetone. If I'm going to resolder this pc board myself, I'm assuming one needs to remove the coating off the bottom of the board around all the joints before attempting to resolder, right? Do you actually dip the board into acetone to do this? Or do you just dab the solvent on the back of the board and clean a little at a time using a fine wire brush? I'm thinking the acetone would eat everything up. I figure I've got nothing to lose, it won't work the way it is, and I don't see one for sale on ebay.
Thanks!
Old 12-17-2003 | 01:37 AM
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You'll have to dip. Then use a wire brush. Acetone is cheap.

If you want to replace the conformal coating and can't find anything local, a fellow rennlister (damn I wish I could remember his name) sent me some. Theres only a tube or two. First come first serve.
Old 12-17-2003 | 10:43 AM
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E-mail me if you'd like to buy a used one that works intermittently for $30...

I've tried several tv repair shops in this area and they all wanted around $50-80 (North Carolina). I bought a complete used assembly which works fine. I've got the servo and the cable also that you can have for that same $30...
Ahmet
Old 12-17-2003 | 10:53 PM
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Ken,
I removed mine by brush application and a cloth over it to reduce evaporation. It took multiple applications and some light brushing but only the conformal coating was removed from one side (I did not want to mess with all the components). Resoldered the board, too. It did not help me, though as the cruise doesn't work. I think it might be the column switch. Any easy quick checks on that?
Thanks,
Lee
Old 12-18-2003 | 01:30 AM
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Thanks guys! I just talked to the local computer service tech and showed him my pc board. He thought all the solder joints looked just fine on a quickie visual but suggested I try cleaning the pins/connector up real good first, try it out, if no go then bring it back and he’ll reflow the solder joints in it for $30.00. (I didn’t realize just how bad the pins on the board looked until it was under the bench light in his shop). So I think I’ll try this first,then go from there.

Lee, the FSM has a pretty good diagnostic procedure for checking voltage at the brain’s connector. This should give you a good indication if theres a problem with the column switch/harness. Let me know if you don’t have access to the FSM. Your later model unit should be pretty easy to get the connector off of the unit to check it. Also, there is a clutch switch that if adjusted to far away from pedal will keep your CC from engaging at all.

Ahmet, I’ll keep you in mind for the parts. (Assuming its an early brain box), and Sid for the conformal coating. Thanks!



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