Rogue MAF
#2
Addict
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#4
Rainman
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i had it for 2 years, it was truly transformational to how the car drove, part throttle was so much more responsive.
worth every penny that they charge for it, IMO would be worth it if it were 2x as much.
if your DME is already set up for the 28pin chip you can install the whole shebang in like 10 minutes, seriously.
sold my setup to buy a full standalone ECU to give me more tuning headroom for boost.
worth every penny that they charge for it, IMO would be worth it if it were 2x as much.
if your DME is already set up for the 28pin chip you can install the whole shebang in like 10 minutes, seriously.
sold my setup to buy a full standalone ECU to give me more tuning headroom for boost.
NA-tune results.
Green lines are the best from the last dyno trip. Red is tonight, only change to car is installation of Rogue's NA-tune MAF and chip. I realize it is an awful quality picture but it's all I have for now.
Needless to say, big improvements. Peak numbers are up about 5 hp/tq, but the real gains take place in the lower RPMs. Highlighted is the largest increase...14lbft is HUGE. This MAF has the effect of moving the whole torque curve ~500rpm earlier but maintaining the original shape, so it easier to drive all around town.
Car idles smoother, pulls at part throttle smoother, and is all around better.
Green lines are the best from the last dyno trip. Red is tonight, only change to car is installation of Rogue's NA-tune MAF and chip. I realize it is an awful quality picture but it's all I have for now.
Needless to say, big improvements. Peak numbers are up about 5 hp/tq, but the real gains take place in the lower RPMs. Highlighted is the largest increase...14lbft is HUGE. This MAF has the effect of moving the whole torque curve ~500rpm earlier but maintaining the original shape, so it easier to drive all around town.
Car idles smoother, pulls at part throttle smoother, and is all around better.
#6
I run it on my `87 NA, and even with the soldering of a couple pins and a jumper, it still only takes about 10 minutes to install the chip. Runs more smoothly, a bit more grunt on the low end (nice because I run the taller geared 951 TA), and doesn't run out of breath quite as early. Worth it in my opinion, but I'm also very biased against flappy-door AFMs, never owned one that wasn't irritating.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I run it on my `87 NA, and even with the soldering of a couple pins and a jumper, it still only takes about 10 minutes to install the chip. Runs more smoothly, a bit more grunt on the low end (nice because I run the taller geared 951 TA), and doesn't run out of breath quite as early. Worth it in my opinion, but I'm also very biased against flappy-door AFMs, never owned one that wasn't irritating.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I also had good experiences with it. I went a route similar to V2 rocket. It's the sweet spot for someone willing to do a "considerable" modification with the benefits of a bolt on. I would recommend it unless you intend to do serious/expensive/boost altercations later down the road that would make a standalone the better option.
#9
Rainman
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Advancing the cam 4 degrees is about the best thing you can do, its almost as good on its own as the MAF conversion. Do both, it'll be great (BTDT).
I wouldn't bother with head work for even a warmed up 2.5 NA - the stock head, as-cast should be fine for maybe 200hp without issue. You won't get there without compression/big cam/more tuning anyways.
I wouldn't bother with head work for even a warmed up 2.5 NA - the stock head, as-cast should be fine for maybe 200hp without issue. You won't get there without compression/big cam/more tuning anyways.